Hex bits and drivers?

[SCREAMER]

I just ordered the MIP driver set from SuperShafty. Can't wait to try them. It's the 1.5 and 2.0 that always give me problems with rounding off especially when tightening down set screws like the ones for driveshafts or motor pinions. I wanted to try the SnapOn set too but I'm glad I read this first.

[kranswall]

You're going to love the MIP drivers! I'm very impressed with mine, I only wish they laser etched the sizes on the tool rather than give the customer a label.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I just ordered the MIP driver set from SuperShafty. Can't wait to try them. It's the 1.5 and 2.0 that always give me problems with rounding off especially when tightening down set screws like the ones for driveshafts or motor pinions. I wanted to try the SnapOn set too but I'm glad I read this first.

You'll love them. Most drivers, bits, etc are not tight in the smaller hex sizes. This includes some of the good automotive tool brands. The MIP's are tight like a tiger!

Originally Posted by kranswall

You're going to love the MIP drivers! I'm very impressed with mine, I only wish they laser etched the sizes on the tool rather than give the customer a label.

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I agree. The labels are a nice, fairly new addition, but it would be nice if there was some etching and even better if the handles were color coded somehow.

[Soldat Vaillant]

Originally Posted by Poprivet

Never tried mip's. To much $.

Locked-Up tips are $10 each, you can get MIP speed bits and whole drivers for $10-11 each and they fit any 1/4" hex drive handle, drill or driver.

The Locked-Up hex tips are 100mm long, the shorter (60mm) tips are flathead and phillips screwdrivers and the short (35mm) are their scale bolt nut driver tips. They also have 88-90mm long "extended" nut drivers.

[mtnbiker4evr13]

The Locked Up tips caught my eye when scrolling their site a while back, glad people are having good results with them.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Poprivet

Never tried mip's. To much $.

For tools that you only have to buy once because they'll last forever, they're not too much money at all.

Originally Posted by maslin

I thought the SnapOn set was great, until I got a set of the MIP bits. The SnapOn mini hex set it for TVs, not RC. The MIP bits are fantastic.

That's what people don't realize! Automotive tool manufacturers do not have the tight tolerances that specialized hobby grade tools have.

[Soldat Vaillant]

Originally Posted by ddewey78

well i recieved the Wiha bits yesterday, I havent used them muck, but straight out of the package i measures them. None of them were more than .02mm off the specified size, other than the 5 and 6mm, which were .03mm off, but i wont really be using those often, if ever

Those should be fine, the drivers and bits I have that fit/work well are within .00-.03mm of the advertised size.

[jbarcia99]

I recently picked up a full set of MIPS, one driver head snapped clean off, sent an email with a picture of the driver and a replacement was sent out that day. Great customer service!

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[Chumley54]

I was working on my Unimog and needing to take off the transmission cover. I replaced all the sheet metal type screws with 3mm machine, allen screws. For some reason, they were tight, stripped my Harbor Freight Wrench (It is an inch shorter in about a year from grinding off the stripped ends) and even stripped a regular wrench...Had to dremel a slot to get it off...So I just ordered a set of MIP wrenches (set of 3). They cost, but good tools cost. I paid $11 for the Harbor Freight metric/SAE set of plastic T handled wrenches. Every one I used for real work has broken the ball tip off and ther more frequently used ones get shorter every day.

I was a professional truck mechanic in a previous life, and one thing I know, a good tool is worth it, and is less dangerous to use and gets the job done.

So I just sprang for the MIP set. The cheapo's are good for spinning stuff on and off, but if a screw is tight, you need a good wrench.

Next will be some high quality nut drivers...That little Tamiya T-wrench is starting to irk me....handy, but not made for heavy use and painful to use....

I have some good metric nut drivers, but nut in the small sixes needed for these RC vehicles.

[snapon boy]

For the nut drivers looks at the Dynamite set they look like the have carbon fiber handles they very good

[SCREAMER]

So I got my MIP drivers from SuperShafty and wanted to report back. I love them. Of course the 2.5 and 2.0 are great but my main issue was always with anything 1.5 whether it be set screws or grub screws or anything needing more than a whisper of torque applied. Rounding off hardware or under torquing a fastener is now a thing of the past. Tools are incredibly important to me and these hex drivers are fantastic. Really glad I got them and would definitely recommend them as a must have.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

So I got my MIP drivers from SuperShafty and wanted to report back. I love them. Of course the 2.5 and 2.0 are great but my main issue was always with anything 1.5 whether it be set screws or grub screws or anything needing more than a whisper of torque applied. Rounding off hardware or under torquing a fastener is now a thing of the past. Tools are incredibly important to me and these hex drivers are fantastic. Really glad I got them and would definitely recommend them as a must have.

Everybody that gives MIPs a try loves them.

It's also good to keep a 1/16" driver on hand because some grub screws are standard. And sometimes a 1/16" driver fits better into a worn or mismachined 1.5mm screw since it's slightly larger.

[pro mod steve]

After 5 years in rc I finally bought a set of MIP. Boy was I a dumbass for waiting soo long to get these. Personally I like the knurled aluminum handles on others better than the plastic on MIP. But with the quality of the driver tip itself I can get used to it.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by pro mod steve

After 5 years in rc I finally bought a set of MIP. Boy was I a dumbass for waiting soo long to get these. Personally I like the knurled aluminum handles on others better than the plastic on MIP. But with the quality of the driver tip itself I can get used to it.

I do agree that it would be nice if MIP brought their handles into this decade, but I guess they assume why fix what's not broken. I do know some people don't like knurled aluminum handles because they can chew up your hands.

[Robbob]

You could always buy a Hudy set if you want the fancy ends with quality tips

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by Soldat Vaillant

Most recent was a set of metric ball end drivers that slip in the screw heads when I try to apply any torque to them.

Sometimes its not fair to blame the tools sometimes it is. In the case of a ball end driver, they are not made for applying torque to a screw. They are designed for the rapid removal or installation of a screw that is in a less then straight on position.

Ball end only have a sliver of meat on them, that's way you can swivel them. I don't care who makes the tool, your going to round off a ball end if you don't use it correctly.

[Chumley54]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

Sometimes its not fair to blame the tools sometimes it is. In the case of a ball end driver, they are not made for applying torque to a screw. They are designed for the rapid removal or installation of a screw that is in a less then straight on position.

Ball end only have a sliver of meat on them, that's way you can swivel them. I don't care who makes the tool, your going to round off a ball end if you don't use it correctly.

While I don;t disagree with your statement, I can tell you the Harbor Freight Ball end drivers not only round off, they break off pretty easily. After gently grinding them back to use as non-ball end, they still round off with any torque at all. The steel is just crappy.

My MIP set just came today. I saved 4 screws that slipped on the Harbor freight set (I got them off with the free little wrenches that come with some accessories). The MIP driver is a solid, tight fit, no slip....Those Harbor Freight wrenches are made of very soft steel and are dimensionally loose too.

I suspect I can break the screw head off before rounding the wrench on the MIP tool...



T

[Ditchrat]

No doubt harbor freight stuff is crap

[Soldat Vaillant]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

Sometimes its not fair to blame the tools sometimes it is. In the case of a ball end driver, they are not made for applying torque to a screw. They are designed for the rapid removal or installation of a screw that is in a less then straight on position.

Ball end only have a sliver of meat on them, that's way you can swivel them. I don't care who makes the tool, your going to round off a ball end if you don't use it correctly.

This comment below was an important detail.

Unfortunately the stuff me and a few friends have gotten from Wiha in recent years has not been up to previous Wiha standards.

The Wiha ball end driver's were simply the most recent Wiha tools I purchased (until last week). If my Associated, Duratax and old RPM ball drivers and Bondus ball L-keys can torque motor screws and pinion set screws securely, then the Wiha should be able to handle the same task.

The 1.5mm and 2.0mm Wiha hex bits (not ball-end) I got on Thursday the 29th are not any better. They still have a lot of slop in them compared to other bits and drivers, but the 2.0 seems to be usable. The Wera Hex Plus bits ordered from the same vendor are much better so I'll be buying a few more from Wera to use with my Utica TS-100 and Wheeler F.A.T. Wrench and my Ryobi Tec-4 driver.

[pro mod steve]

Originally Posted by Robbob

You could always buy a Hudy set if you want the fancy ends with quality tips

Yeah but I don't have that kind of coin to just throw around.