Steve's VS410 Phoenix Build

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by Speedy-Triple

Welcome to the hobby... I have been into in a few years now and the trucks keep on rolling. Youll likely get there eventually. I did recently put in a 3100kv on my VP Pro and is nice and fast with really good creep on mamba x ... given that you are using portals and the gear reduction is a bit more the 2300kv might be a bit slow for full throttle, although the low end creep will be smoother.

I think low end creep would suit me. I'll see how it goes.

[Steven McKay]

Well now I have another potential problem, as I was separating the parts of D bag. I have 6 set screws. One 4mm for the motor and five 5mm, two for dig and two for overdrive. Where does the last 5mm set screw go?

[twade984]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

Well now I have another potential problem, as I was separating the parts of D bag. I have 6 set screws. One 4mm for the motor and five 5mm, two for dig and two for overdrive. Where does the last 5mm set screw go?

I think that may just be an extra


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[Steven McKay]

Thanks, was getting ready to review some build vids to find out.

[smog]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

My motor is coming tomorrow. I ordered the Tekin ROC412 Rock Crawler Motor (3100kV) and as soon as I did I realized the 2300kv would be much better.
I couldn't make the change in time already shipped. So I did the wheels and
shocks but won't fill them until I mount them. I did use green slime to lube
Oring and shaft for building.

I run a 3330kv sensored motor in my Phoenix without issue. Get a pinion gear with 3 or so less teeth to gear it down and you are golden. Gobs of speed and torque. With a Tekin system you should get a nice creep on start up. I am a Castle guy so don't know Tekin well, but imagine you can adjust the throttle band to also help temper all those kv's and sweeten the modulation on your creep.

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

Thanks. Except for wheels and tires the build will be completely stock.

You picked the right rig for running stock. Best out of the box rig I have built thus far.

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by smog

I run a 3330kv sensored motor in my Phoenix without issue. Get a pinion gear with 3 or so less teeth to gear it down and you are golden. Gobs of speed and torque. With a Tekin system you should get a nice creep on start up. I am a Castle guy so don't know Tekin well, but imagine you can adjust the throttle band to also help temper all those kv's and sweeten the modulation on your creep.

You picked the right rig for running stock. Best out of the box rig I have built thus far.

That is what I suggested to AMain when they told me too late it shipped.
Honestly though I just didn't know which gears and how much reduction.
So thank you and I will probably run 2S too.

[Steven McKay]

Did a little more, sorry it's blurry. My tires came a few min ago. Compared
to stock.

[Steven McKay]

Wheels came today. I wish I had a video of me trying to figure out how to install the tires. I said to myself it can't go like that.....then I need longer
screws.....can't find screws. GEE what are these two screws that don't go
to anything.......%$@#ASS. Anyway they do look good and have steel
rings. However they will not fit, I need by the looks of it a #6 hub probably.
I also did minor work and am about to finish the motor assembly.

[Steven McKay]

Finished up and mounted the motor assembly. At some point in time I
should be putting some leads on that motor, going to wait as long as I can. Wire everything at the same time. I'll get my ESC RX4 and 3 servos, Tekin
T-440 steering servo and two T-120 Lo-Pro Servo for dig and overdrive.

[twade984]

Coming along nicely!

Nothing beats a vp kit build imo.


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[B-MOW71]

Nice progress! Enjoy every moment of the build!

[Steven McKay]

Thanks, for the encouragement guys. I had a hold up, didn't have a 2mm that would fit up inside the driveshaft, all I had was a Milwaukee 9-in-1 Metric Hex/Key Drive Multi-Bit Screwdriver. It was to big to fit inside the driveshaft. Now I have a set of hex drivers. I had trouble bleeding my shocks. As far as I know your shocks (as a starting point) should be neutral with even resistance (without spring). The spring returning the shock to its uncompressed position. I viewed many vids on bleeding shocks and found nothing I needed. I blead my first shock and oil came out, I kept the shock compressed, and inserted the bleed screw. But every time when I extended the shaft it was sucked back to almost full compression. After messing around with it for a while, I discovered that if I filled the shock to about where you would. Then keeping the shock compressed put the cap on with the bleed screw already installed. It worked, had to work with the oil level just a tad on one. Now when I cycle the shock it has notable even resistance
and doesn't rebound or get sucked back in. That being said, everything
is good under one condition. Is a shock supposed to be neutral, at least as a
starting point? I did happen to learn about putting some rebound on a shock.
Up to 25 to 50%, I did notice while I was messing around that if I did it a
certain way I did get some rebound about 25%. I just hope somebody reads
this and sets me straight. Anyway did some more building and a little
cussing two links were a mother to get in. Watched a vid and saw the guy
slide one in were I had to use semtex (shape charge) to get it in. But all is
ok. One good thing to remember is any mistake can be remedied, but it
might cost a little or a lot.

[Steven McKay]

Started to put my inner fenders on and what do you mean they don't line up
with the body posts. I know I have the shock towers right according to
the instructions. I remembered seeing a vid and seeing the shock towers the right way. So I went and checked the instructions and said to myself I'm good.
No the instructions are wrong and with my inexperience I didn't know.
Thankfully it's an easy fix, this time.

[Steven McKay]

OK, I was wrong again. The instructions are right, the reason being so you can access the shock screw. Changing it to the right format.

[Steven McKay]

Finally finished the chassis, I'll get all three servos in a couple weeks. I was going to get my ESC too but the servos will cost me $410.00 so we'll see.
I changed my mind and will go with two T-180 instead of the T-120 to save
$80.00. They are low pro too as are the T-120. I'm going to skip painting
the body, its too cold for that. I also haven't figured out what color I want
the interior yet. Maybe desert sand pearl coat like the exterior of my 2000
jeep Cherokee.

[B-MOW71]

Looking good! Sounds like you figured out the shocks. Back in the day I would have some rebound in my off-road race buggies, but in my scale crawlers I don’t run any.

The front shock tower dilemma got me too on my Phoenix! Easy fix once I figured it out.

Good call on postponing the painting! Too damn cold here in Ohio! Could be worse though, it’s worse the farther north you go!


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[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Looking good! Sounds like you figured out the shocks. Back in the day I would have some rebound in my off-road race buggies, but in my scale crawlers I don’t run any.

The front shock tower dilemma got me too on my Phoenix! Easy fix once I figured it out.

Good call on postponing the painting! Too damn cold here in Ohio! Could be worse though, it’s worse the farther north you go!


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Glad you said that about the shocks. I had no idea how they should be, now
I do. Thank you. As far as the front shock tower dilemma. I was thinking about putting them back so the body post holes line up and just use a standard allen wrench to access the shock when needed. I imitated doing
that and it should work, slow but doable. I'll keep it like it is this time,
but my next build I will change it and make the post holes line up. I would like to build another phoenix but with a straight axle and with a D90 or
110 body. 2.2 wheels and all the aluminum goodies down low to help CG.
I guess I'll build the cage while I wait for it to warm up to 5 degrees.

[Steven McKay]

That's it folks, all finished with what I can do. Time to paint, the body will
be all black with a tan interior. I will detail the interior.

[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

As far as the front shock tower dilemma. I was thinking about putting them back so the body post holes line up and just use a standard allen wrench to access the shock when needed. I imitated doing that and it should work, slow but doable. I'll keep it like it is this time, but my next build I will change it and make the post holes line up.

I actually went back and attached the shock towers on my Phoenix so that the body post holes lined up. My OCD wouldn’t allow me to NOT line them up!


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[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

I actually went back and attached the shock towers on my Phoenix so that the body post holes lined up. My OCD wouldn’t allow me to NOT line them up!


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I wish you hadn't said that, I have OCD too. Now I have to change..................
.......too.