Steve's VS410 Phoenix Build

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by Ots

"...adapter plates"

OK - makes sense, but are these Vanquish parts? Or the NSDRC ones for $13.99?

Thanks indybama. The adapter plates are from NSDRC.

[Ots]

Thanks.

[Steven McKay]

My shocks arrived, but no sign of my cantilever kit. So I called Dinky RC, we
talked for a few about the cantilever kit. I learned that the cantilever kit was
designed to use 1/16 scale 50mm shocks (shocks not included with kit), the
website only states that the shocks needed are 50mm. Dinky said that he would look into that. So my big bore shocks might not fit as they are bigger
than the VP stock shocks that might not fit either. But B-MOW71 used the
VP 80mm stock shocks though not as intended, (good job on that too) he
also didn't use the Dinky kit. I'm going to play around with them and I'm
sure I can make the kit work one way or another. Dinky said they might
ship as early as this Monday. With the weather being the way it is and
knowing if paint freezes it might ruin it. Painting is on hold till better weather.
This will give me time to acquire the rest of my electronics.

[B-MOW71]

Good info there on the DinkyRC cantilever kit. I didn't realize it was designed for 1/16 scale shocks either. If you can't get the Dinky kit to work, the cheap kit that I bought does seem to work good and may work for you too.

My VP shocks are actually the 90mm S8E shocks that come with the straight axle kit. I do plan to limit them to 80mm or possibly less with fuel tubing inside the shocks to get rid of the massive flex that it has now.

Hey looks like we both missed our window of opportunity to apply paint yesterday. It sure was nice out until the storms rolled in!

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Good info there on the DinkyRC cantilever kit. I didn't realize it was designed for 1/16 scale shocks either. If you can't get the Dinky kit to work, the cheap kit that I bought does seem to work good and may work for you too.

My VP shocks are actually the 90mm S8E shocks that come with the straight axle kit. I do plan to limit them to 80mm or possibly less with fuel tubing inside the shocks to get rid of the massive flex that it has now.

Hey looks like we both missed our window of opportunity to apply paint yesterday. It sure was nice out until the storms rolled in!

I didn't know those were 90mm. I saw that the rocker arm protruded above
the frame when compressed. Can't have that on a flatbed, though I do
intend to have a rail on top of the frame to support the bed which will give
me a little leeway on travel. My next rig will be a Phoenix or yota flatbed with a VFD Transmission so no tool box servo and Currie D44 axles. I do have a
question. With the parts listed above and using a yota body. What would be
the best way to purchase this. Should I just get a Phoenix straight axle kit, chassis kit or piece it out.

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

I didn't know those were 90mm. I saw that the rocker arm protruded above
the frame when compressed. Can't have that on a flatbed, though I do
intend to have a rail on top of the frame to support the bed which will give
me a little leeway on travel. My next rig will be a Phoenix or yota flatbed with a VFD Transmission so no tool box servo and Currie D44 axles. I do have a
question. With the parts listed above and using a yota body. What would be
the best way to purchase this. Should I just get a Phoenix straight axle kit, chassis kit or piece it out.

After further review on how to install the rails for the bed. With the major height differences forward and rearward of the wheel well. There's a good chance the Interceptor Chassis might just be the way to go, by cutting off the rear shock towers. It will give me a straight frame for the rail or possibly
negating the need for a rail at all. But I'm looking for scale looks so probably
will have a rail. I also plan on using the Incision steel driveshaft set if I can make that work.

[Steven McKay]

My DinkyRC cantilever kit has shipped, it will be here Monday. I was sitting at my workbench, holding up my 50mm shock against the stock shock comparing them. Holding the 50mm shock flush with the bottom of the stock shock. I looked up and saw that the top of the 50mm shock lined up with the rail. I said to myself no way. I can't believe I didn't think of this configuration earlier. I removed the stock shock, then I popped the bottom stock pivot ball into the 50mm shock. The pivot ball was slightly bigger than the hardware that came with the 50mm shocks but it worked. I used the hardware that came with the 50mm shocks for the top pivot ball. I removed the shock tower, and installed the 50mm shocks. If need be the shock tower could have been left in place. I used the M3X20mm from the top of the shock tower to secure the top of the shock and used the stock M3X20mm cap head for the bottom. After installation of the 50mm shock, I held up the stock 80mm shock in the same manner as before. I saw that if I had a rail on top of the frame for a flatbed the 80mm stock shock would work if attached to it. It would be slightly longer than needed but I believe the weight of the flatbed would make the flatbed drop down just about right if not it wouldn't be much. Anybody need a DinkyRC cantilever kit.
I did use a threaded pivot ball for a spacer against the rail and a M3x25mm should be used instead of a M3x20mm. The top of the shock is 1mm below the top of the rail.

[Steven McKay]

More info on image (50mm big bore shock) in post #67. First, If I was going to use this setup. I would replace the threaded pivot ball I used as a spacer (all I had at the time) with a spacer from the Rock Pirates servo & shock spacer pack. Second, the 50mm big bore shocks came with three spring sets. I used the light (green) spring set. They (green) were still pretty stiff but usable. The 50mm big bore shocks don't give you a lot of travel if that is of concern. I think with a lighter spring set, they would work just fine. My cantilever Kit arrived this morning. Just remember I didn't know the cantilever Kit was designed for 1/16 scale shocks (not listed on website) and possibly the entire unit, until I talked to Dinky RC about when it might be shipped. At the time I figured that the only problem I would encounter would be the larger dia. shocks. But I was wrong, the screws for the mounting bracket are of a smaller dia. and won't fit the rail. Not only that but the holes don't line up either, very close thought but no cannoli. I could fix that by drilling my own holes. Secondly, the shock pivot ball is to wide to fit, I could buy thinner pivot balls or I could pull out the 1x30 and take off a little on both sides. Thirdly. The mounting bracket is to wide (wider than the one B-MOW71 used) to allow the shock to move freely, again 1x30. That's a lot of work, when you can simply go to Amazon and get a 1/10 scale cantilever Kit. Like the one B-MOW71 bought. Amazon has two cantilever Kits. One for the SCX10 and the one I would get because I don't do Amazon and found it elsewhere is for the SCX10 II, this one:

RCLions 2pcs RC Shock Absorber Damper 70mm Cantilever Suspension Kit for Axial SCX10 II 90046 Upgrade Parts 1/10 RC Crawler Car.

I most likely won't be using a cantilever on my flatbed build. I'll simply attach the 80mm-90mm shock to the axle (stock) and to the rail using a spacer from Rock Pirates. Same way as above in post #67 but not the frame the rail I'll mount on the frame. No pivot ball in image below won't fit.

[Steven McKay]

Not a whole lot to post. I put the stock wheels on, just for looks. Ok, I just wanted to play with it beats hot wheels. I also decided to get the FS- GT5 and
either the FS-BS6 or FS-iA6 for now. I'll save money and be able to get the rest of what I need to finish this beast. Can't paint so if I have some cash left over, I'll start getting parts for my flatbed.

[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

I didn't know those were 90mm. I saw that the rocker arm protruded above
the frame when compressed. Can't have that on a flatbed, though I do
intend to have a rail on top of the frame to support the bed which will give
me a little leeway on travel.

My next rig will be a Phoenix or yota flatbed with a VFD Transmission so no tool box servo and Currie D44 axles. I do have a
question. With the parts listed above and using a yota body. What would be
the best way to purchase this. Should I just get a Phoenix straight axle kit, chassis kit or piece it out.

The rocker arm does swing above the frame rails, but not enough to hit the bottom of the bed. And I do plan on putting fuel tubing in the shocks to limit them so the rocker arms will travel even less upwards.

Sounds like you may want to piece together the new rig. Since you are wanting the D44 axles and the VFD trans, the only way to get them now is to buy them separately. You could buy the VS4-10 PRO which comes with the upgraded VFD trans, but has the Currie F9 axles. The F9 axles look great and are beefy, but the D44 just look more scale. The PRO kit would be more expensive, but you would get most of what you want except for the D44 axles. The other downside IMO is that the PRO comes with the Incision shocks and not the S8E shocks that come with the Phoenix. The Incision shocks that came with my Origin and PRO always leaked and I could never get them to hold oil.

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

The rocker arm does swing above the frame rails, but not enough to hit the bottom of the bed. And I do plan on putting fuel tubing in the shocks to limit them so the rocker arms will travel even less upwards.

Sounds like you may want to piece together the new rig. Since you are wanting the D44 axles and the VFD trans, the only way to get them now is to buy them separately. You could buy the VS4-10 PRO which comes with the upgraded VFD trans, but has the Currie F9 axles. The F9 axles look great and are beefy, but the D44 just look more scale. The PRO kit would be more expensive, but you would get most of what you want except for the D44 axles. The other downside IMO is that the PRO comes with the Incision shocks and not the S8E shocks that come with the Phoenix. The Incision shocks that came with my Origin and PRO always leaked and I could never get them to hold oil.

I agree. I have decided to use the interceptor chassis, the rear of the frame is straight and cutting off the rear shock tower will give me a clean flat rear frame on which to mount a rail for the bed. I'm going to use the RP elements servo tray front and rear. The rear one to strengthen the frame. While I was thinking about the rear servo tray, it gave me an idea about possibly having rear wheel steering (but that would be for another build, I have the bug) but that would put a servo in the bed can't have that. Could use the capra axle with the axle mounted servo tray though. I'll use the VFD trans, D44 axles, Incision Driveshaft Set (if possible) and I'll incorporate as many VP parts as possible VP GOOD to keep this thread here. I'll manufacture my own aluminum front and rear bumpers. I would like to push the rear axle back as far as I can and still use the Incision Driveshaft Set. That will give me the ability to have a long bed. On a different note. While I was playing hot wheels with my truck I noticed the front axle was offset from the rear axle. So I took the panhard link off and adjusted it until the axles lined up. It took approx. 3 complete revolutions on each end. I'm hoping I have enough thread engagement and am thinking about getting VP machined M4 Rod Ends.

[twade984]

Fyi the front axle will follow the arc of the panhard bar a significant amount. I wouldn’t worry too much about adjusting it until you see where it lands at normal ride height, i.e. with the full weight of the body, electronics and battery.

Also, if the shifting of the axle concerns you, just remember that basically never will the suspension compress or drop equal amounts one side to the other. Normal suspension movement will cause one side to be up and the other down.

As far as the rear shock/cantilever setup, i will share something I’m working on in case it’s relevant to anyone.

I’m fitting a Mojave body to a Phoenix straight axle, and I opted to use 80mm shocks with the optional -5mm lower rod end mounted to the link, along with a simple upper shock mount. Upper mount is 3D printed, but I will have it cut from aluminum or carbon fiber later.








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[twade984]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

I didn't know those were 90mm. I saw that the rocker arm protruded above
the frame when compressed. Can't have that on a flatbed, though I do
intend to have a rail on top of the frame to support the bed which will give
me a little leeway on travel. My next rig will be a Phoenix or yota flatbed with a VFD Transmission so no tool box servo and Currie D44 axles. I do have a
question. With the parts listed above and using a yota body. What would be
the best way to purchase this. Should I just get a Phoenix straight axle kit, chassis kit or piece it out.

I think I would buy a Phoenix straight axle kit, sell the body, sell the twin (if you want a standard vfd) and then buy the d44 housings and the body of your choice. By far cheaper than piecing everything together.


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[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by twade984

Fyi the front axle will follow the arc of the panhard bar a significant amount. I wouldn’t worry too much about adjusting it until you see where it lands at normal ride height, i.e. with the full weight of the body, electronics and battery.

Also, if the shifting of the axle concerns you, just remember that basically never will the suspension compress or drop equal amounts one side to the other. Normal suspension movement will cause one side to be up and the other down.

As far as the rear shock/cantilever setup, i will share something I’m working on in case it’s relevant to anyone.

I’m fitting a Mojave body to a Phoenix straight axle, and I opted to use 80mm shocks with the optional -5mm lower rod end mounted to the link, along with a simple upper shock mount. Upper mount is 3D printed, but I will have it cut from aluminum or carbon fiber later.








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I didn't even think about that when adjusting the alinement. I'll make a mental note of that and wait till the Phoenix is finished. Thank you. I'm also taking note of the being able to lower the lower shock mount that is interesting. I see a new Yota is being built too.

[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by twade984

As far as the rear shock/cantilever setup, i will share something I’m working on in case it’s relevant to anyone.

I’m fitting a Mojave body to a Phoenix straight axle, and I opted to use 80mm shocks with the optional -5mm lower rod end mounted to the link, along with a simple upper shock mount. Upper mount is 3D printed, but I will have it cut from aluminum or carbon fiber later.

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Now that shock/cantilever setup I like! Simple and doable!

I'm going to have to see more of this build!!

[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by twade984

I’m fitting a Mojave body to a Phoenix straight axle, and I opted to use 80mm shocks with the optional -5mm lower rod end mounted to the link, along with a simple upper shock mount. Upper mount is 3D printed, but I will have it cut from aluminum or carbon fiber later.



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I've made the newbie mistake of the year but I am a newbie. While looking at the photo (inserted) I noticed how the collar (whatever) at the bottom of the shock holding the spring was attached. I didn't have the collar attached to the shock body. I looked at the instructions again to see how I missed that and they actually don't show that clearly. When I put them together I thought they were fully seated. One could ask WHAT THE HELL DO YOU THINK THE HOLE ON THE SHOCK BODY IS FOR. I feel like an idiot. I didn't have to share this either but I figured everybody could use a good

[twade984]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

I've made the newbie mistake of the year but I am a newbie. While looking at the photo (inserted) I noticed how the collar (whatever) at the bottom of the shock holding the spring was attached. I didn't have the collar attached to the shock body. I looked at the instructions again to see how I missed that and they actually don't show that clearly. When I put them together I thought they were fully seated. One could ask WHAT THE HELL DO YOU THINK THE HOLE ON THE SHOCK BODY IS FOR. I feel like an idiot. I didn't have to share this either but I figured everybody could use a good

I went back and see what you mean

I wouldn’t call it the mistake of the year, but pretty funny anyway


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[Steven McKay]

Originally Posted by twade984

I went back and see what you mean

I wouldn’t call it the mistake of the year, but pretty funny anyway


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Had to pull all my wheels and shocks off, because I had to lower the top collar and tighten the spring. Didn't want the cap to loosen or tighten up. All fixed now.

[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by Steven McKay

I've made the newbie mistake of the year but I am a newbie. While looking at the photo (inserted) I noticed how the collar (whatever) at the bottom of the shock holding the spring was attached. I didn't have the collar attached to the shock body. I looked at the instructions again to see how I missed that and they actually don't show that clearly. When I put them together I thought they were fully seated. One could ask WHAT THE HELL DO YOU THINK THE HOLE ON THE SHOCK BODY IS FOR. I feel like an idiot. I didn't have to share this either but I figured everybody could use a good

That one slipped by me too! I didn't even notice in the previous pics!

It's all good and that is how we learn! I've made similar mistakes along the way as well!

[Steven McKay]

Trying to find out what link set to use for VFD trans and D44 axles. I don't think it makes a difference between the VFD and the VFD twin. According to VP the link set to use is the INCISION TITANIUM VS4-10 PRO 10PC LINK KIT IRC00300. Is there a stainless steel version? Can I use the INCISION VS4-10 F10 1/4 STAINLESS STEEL 10PC LINK KIT IRC00303?