VF/DNA/BWD 2.2 Mantis prototype vid...sneak peak

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by slick

My progress has been slow as this is my first build with the berg axles. After I watched the teaser video with the Mantis I could see this is a hot setup for the axles. Using parts off my Axial to do the mock-up. Jato Rod ends, had them on the shelf. Jato's measure around 26mm from the center of the hole to the end. With the scrap rod that was cut off the rears I was able to piece links together for front link mock up. I have one 6mm spacer each side on the lower front chassis and 2 6mm spacers on top for the shocks. As it sits now, I have very little axle steer or roll, and nothing is touching through the range of articulation (motor or gearbox housing). The shocks have 2 pen springs inside that limit the shock travel to 34mm total stroke. You are correct, when I get the rig loaded up I will be able to determine total flex.

WB = 12 3/16"
Chassis height little over 2 5/16" @ the lowest point.

Add 52mm for center to center length.
Rear links, 60mm
Front uppers, 22.5mm
Front lowers, 21mm

Has anyone tried a clocked front axle yet?

Looks good as is. What is the wheel base? H3RSQ package sent!

[swisherteets]

Mantis Build
heres my build thread H3RESQ
I didnt realize that I needed a spacer between the rear links also. That must be why a couple times when it flexed to far it stayed tweaked.

[03kjrocky]

What ever happened to the super version of the Mantis

Is it dead

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by 03kjrocky

What ever happened to the super version of the Mantis

Is it dead

As of right now.....kinda. Just like the class is.:-(

[H3RESQ]

Great pictures of your rigs guy's.

If you can upgrade the rear links to alum. This will help keep the frame from tweaking. I'd run delrin up front but the rear needs the strength of alum. along with a center spacer. This will keep it from both over flexing and also gives it better side to side support so it won't bend the chassis plates at the link mount area.

Try to get your belly of chassis as close to motors as possible, this will allow a smooth transition and allow for better breakover. Ideally the lowers should mount in the hole between the large and medium chassis holes

maybe think about a skid like in pictures to. It's also allows a area to mount some of your electronics lower. My speed controls are mounted to top side of skid in picture. This would deffinitially help the CG on your rig Siggy.

[slick]

Originally Posted by 210solomon007

Looks good as is. What is the wheel base? H3RSQ package sent!

Wheel base is 12 3/16" for now. I will have to wait until I get more delrin rod to get up to 12 1/2", and I still need to make decent front links. I will also be looking to shorten the front links. I started with 1/4" of clearance between the motor and chassis, but had to lengthen because the lower links were at too steep of an angle causing severe binding, axle steer and axle roll. I have some ideas on how to get around this...

What thread are the studs that are included?
4mm X ????

[swisherteets]

Thanks for the advice H3.
Do you know if those link lengths you gave earlier in this thread did you get to double check on that yet. I am getting a bunch of rod in shortly and am probably going to cut some new links to the correct length.

[Siggy]

Thanks H3, will try to-out your suggestion. with my present set-up, the 2 ESC's was ontop of the 2250 3s lipo as it was tough finding a spot for the lipo. Maybe I will need to use a smaller Lipo .

[swisherteets]

hey siggy you might want to look into doing what I did and mount it to the rear axle maybe. Only thing that I made sure to do when I did that is put a piece of lexan over it

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by Siggy

Thanks H3, will try to-out your suggestion. with my present set-up, the 2 ESC's was ontop of the 2250 3s lipo as it was tough finding a spot for the lipo. Maybe I will need to use a smaller Lipo .

My 1550 3s fits in there nice but tight. Has been enough for me on 45T mild modified motors.

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by swisherteets

Thanks for the advice H3.
Do you know if those link lengths you gave earlier in this thread did you get to double check on that yet. I am getting a bunch of rod in shortly and am probably going to cut some new links to the correct length.

Sorry the battery died on my caliper and I have yet to replace it. Solomon knows maybe he can chime in. If your making them yourself you should be able to just work with getting belly close as possible without bind and shock interference.
I would recommend against mounting battery to rear of vehicle(especially the rear axle, these batts are big to run dual motors). You want that weight in the belly for proper balance and sprung weight. Looking at your rig and that batt, could you mount it on the upper links. Basically your electronics are lighter, they should be mounted on links, axle's, etc. battery in belly or front axle is better.

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by slick

Wheel base is 12 3/16" for now. I will have to wait until I get more delrin rod to get up to 12 1/2", and I still need to make decent front links. I will also be looking to shorten the front links. I started with 1/4" of clearance between the motor and chassis, but had to lengthen because the lower links were at too steep of an angle causing severe binding, axle steer and axle roll. I have some ideas on how to get around this...

What thread are the studs that are included?
4mm X ????

Your getting the axle roll and steer issues not because of how close belly is to motor. Your getting it because your mounting your links to far forward on chassis. Move them two or three holes back on sides. This will also make your lowers end up longer than your uppers: in turn helping with those steer and roll issues. Run your lowers about 20mm longer (notice were my lowers mount on chassis) Notice picture.....how far back on chassis lowers are mounted....and location of speed controls under chassis/above rear links

[swisherteets]

thanks a bunch for the advice H3 I really apreciate it.
I will give it a try. I love to wrench on my trucks so I might change up how all the electronics are mounted up
I have some Holmes Hobbies dig switches comin in so I was going to change it up a bit anyways.
I understand what you are saying about the correct sprung/unsprung weight I just really didnt like the idea of locating my electronics on a gigantic skid plate on those rear links. It just seems.... well....gigantic

[slick]

Originally Posted by H3RESQ

Your getting the axle roll and steer issues not because of how close belly is to motor. Your getting it because your mounting your links to far forward on chassis. Move them two or three holes back on sides. This will also make your lowers end up longer than your uppers: in turn helping with those steer and roll issues. Run your lowers about 20mm longer (notice were my lowers mount on chassis) Notice picture.....how far back on chassis lowers are mounted....and location of speed controls under chassis/above rear links

My pics are from the first night messing with link setup, was building to the pics of Bowtie's rig. I have since been trying different combos and found a setting to try. Should have a running rig by Sunday if I get some round stock by then.

What is your current motor to chassis clearance?

[swisherteets]

Originally Posted by slick

What is your current motor to chassis clearance?

I second this question.
even if ya gotta go old school and use a ruller a good target number for the gap in between would be awsome
I had thought I was close enough

[HITMAN]

210solomon007 sent you an email about my mantis chassis i purchased. thx. joe

[Siggy]

Originally Posted by H3RESQ

Great pictures of your rigs guy's.

maybe think about a skid like in pictures to. It's also allows a area to mount some of your electronics lower. My speed controls are mounted to top side of skid in picture. This would deffinitially help the CG on your rig Siggy.

Hi H3, Can we got a top shot of your rig. Wanted to see how you did the rear skid and laid the electronics. Thanks!

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by slick

My pics are from the first night messing with link setup, was building to the pics of Bowtie's rig. I have since been trying different combos and found a setting to try. Should have a running rig by Sunday if I get some round stock by then.

What is your current motor to chassis clearance?

At compression the chassis basically touches the axle at motor case. This makes about 1/2 inch between motor and and skid.

Ideally you just run the axle at furthest back location on tail of chassis using supplied rear links(should measure 4 1/2 inch eye to eye on rodend hole). With all factory links it should end up at 12.5 inches and belly up tight to motor...

these measurments are assuming that the average person has not torn apart there Bergs and clocked them....and is running bergs

EDIT.....Just realized what's going on. The links coming in these kits are not consistent. I just recieved them and the lengths are wrong.


Here are really close exact to what you want...This is LENGTHS WITH ROD ENDS>>>EYE TO EYE>

REAR LINKS.........4 1/2 inches
FRONT UPPERS.....2 3/8 inches
FRONT LOWERS.....3 1/2 inches

[H3RESQ]

Originally Posted by Siggy

Hi H3, Can we got a top shot of your rig. Wanted to see how you did the rear skid and laid the electronics. Thanks!

Ill see what I can do. Those pictures are all of the prototype, It was to short so there was no choice at getting belly tight to the motor. Also those were pictures I just happen to have on my computer. I don't have a camera at this time. I'll try to get a buddy over this weekend to snap some shots of it.

H3.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by H3RESQ

At compression the chassis basically touches the axle at motor case. This makes about 1/2 inch between motor and and skid.

Ideally you just run the axle at furthest back location on tail of chassis using supplied rear links(should measure 4 1/2 inch eye to eye on rodend hole). With all factory links it should end up at 12.5 inches and belly up tight to motor...

these measurments are assuming that the average person has not torn apart there Bergs and clocked them....and is running bergs

EDIT.....Just realized what's going on. The links coming in these kits are not consistent. I just recieved them and the lengths are wrong.


Here are really close exact to what you want...This is LENGTHS WITH ROD ENDS>>>EYE TO EYE>

REAR LINKS.........4 1/2 inches
FRONT UPPERS.....2 inches
FRONT UPPERS.....3 1/2 inches

Originally Posted by H3RESQ

Ill see what I can do. Those pictures are all of the prototype, It was to short so there was no choice at getting belly tight to the motor. Also those were pictures I just happen to have on my computer. I don't have a camera at this time. I'll try to get a buddy over this weekend to snap some shots of it.

H3.

Can you give the length without rod ends?