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Thread: Tomi's Venom Creeper

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Old 01-06-2009, 08:41 PM   #21
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what weight oil does the kit come with? not to sound silly, but the beadlocks have two different rings. one for the back side and one for the front, i guess you an flip the sides for a different look. i think the back sides are nice.
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Old 01-06-2009, 10:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
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what weight oil does the kit come with?
I think the manual said 25 Wt shock oil (the bottle itself was all clear of printings).
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:47 AM   #23
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thanks tomik, then i guess further tunning with oil weight in addition to the springs inside will work. i wonder if venom will have different spring rates for the internal spring. probably don't need to, just change the outside one's if needed.
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Old 01-07-2009, 01:08 AM   #24
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My buddy has an axial with a flipped trans and motor, it climbs a ton better now. It plants the rear instead of pulling a front.
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:15 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88_Pathy View Post
My buddy has an axial with a flipped trans and motor, it climbs a ton better now. It plants the rear instead of pulling a front.
That may be, but flipping the trans doesn't do anything about the torquetwist.
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:13 AM   #26
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Very true.... But the main issue with torque twist is pulling the front tire up on a steep climp causing a roll. Atleast from what I've seen. Back to the Creeper.
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:42 PM   #27
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Painted the body... How do you guys like it?





A couple more here.
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:44 PM   #28
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Not crazy about the orange and green, but the body looks fantastic!
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:45 PM   #29
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I like the paint job! Nice job! Got any more pics of your build?
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:27 PM   #30
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Looks awesome Tomi, be sure to post a pic in the "Creeper Pictures" Thread.

I like what you did with the Creeper Decal on the hood.

--Paul
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:12 PM   #31
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nice build tomi my difs work fine but i had one shock do the same thing and a missing screw or two that sed still a nice kit imo.
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:54 PM   #32
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2 screws per side of the wheel? are they beadlocks? those lower links look silly overall your rig looks great!
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:27 AM   #33
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Got to drive a bit yesterday in wet snow, because the rain is melting it (hopefully).
I was thinking myself I didn't have to suffer because of the skidplate, but got to admit: The skidplate is too sharp on the edges (front and rear) and too low compared to the links. Therefore the truck seems to get stuck too easily.

Wondering what to do about it, other than to buy Axial tranny...
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Old 01-13-2009, 03:40 PM   #34
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Default Broken shaft

Just found out that there's been a DB-backup... So I'm going to write this again.

Today I (too) snapped the shaft :-(. It was a really easy climb (my almost stock CR-01 can do it easily) and ended up like this:




Edit many hours later... The parts have been ordered and once again Venom's customer service rocked and I believe my parts are being mailed today .
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomik View Post
Just found out that there's been a DB-backup... So I'm going to write this again.

Today I (too) snapped the shaft :-(. It was a really easy climb (my almost stock CR-01 can do it easily) and ended up like this:




Edit many hours later... The parts have been ordered and once again Venom's customer service rocked and I believe my parts are being mailed today .
So is this the weaklink for the Venom? Is this the front? Also how are you guys mounting batteries?
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:52 PM   #36
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I think that the over heat treating is what is killing the axles.
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:56 AM   #37
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Yup. There's a batch of over heat-treated shafts in the first kits.

The images are of the left front shaft.

I've mounted my 1300/1800/2150mAh LiPo on the original battery location so far, but might consider mounting it on top of the steering servo if it helps after the heavier wheel weight set :-).
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Old 01-23-2009, 01:31 PM   #38
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So far I've been very happy with Creeper, but now I have some negative feelings with the diff lock kit. I received it a couple days ago with the wheel weights and new shafts and shocks.

Installed a new shock and it works very smoothly . Also installed the wheel weights (3 per front wheel) and shafts, but can't say if they'll hold or not yet (30cm of snow, so no driving).



Well... Installed the diff lock kit just like the instructions tell with those ridiculously small hardware (really, I didn't have small enough screwdriver for the servoscrew...). I'd say M3 hardware should be the absolute minimum in RC stuff!

Anyway, the kit just didn't work. It could open the diff but no way it could lock it again. And I do have enough lubrication in the plate that controls the locking mechanism.

Tonight I looked at it again and thought the same thing can be done with a servo on the rear axle and with some other small accessories.

So I made a raw (but working) prototype... Installed a Hitec HS-645MG on the rear axle and connected it to the lever that came with the difflock kit .

Here's a blurry video shot with cell phone. You can see it works (I've test driven it too and still works) and there's more than enough power to move the switch :-D.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5rj5dWt5ho


What do you guys think?

Last edited by tomik; 01-23-2009 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 01-23-2009, 01:37 PM   #39
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I was curious is how the Diff lock was supposed to work before you prototyped your own... ? What is wrong with the diff lock kit itself?
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Old 01-23-2009, 01:43 PM   #40
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As I understood it... The thin wire was supposed to push the upper end of lever (where I attached the servo) so the lower end of the lever could push the locking "plate" back in. It never happened even after tuning the system for a good hour.

Maybe I just can't or something, but this prototype works much better. It doesn't look as good as the original kit and wastes 4WS possibility, but I'm not going to use 4WS anyway.
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