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Old 01-18-2010, 11:43 AM   #1
smr
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Default nOOb...:) WARNING LARGE PICTURES + LOTS OF FONT

Well since I have been browsing the forums for information for a couple of weeks and have finally started my build I thought I would introduce myself. I'm in Northern California. I'm not new to RC by any means but have just now added crawling to the collection. I purchased a Venom Creeper (red if it matters) and have been sitting on building it for some time. I believe I have gathered everything I need to start but any advice or tips appreciated..

Venom Creeper
Set of soft Rovers
CKRC stage II suspension
CKRC drive shafts
Remote lock servo kit for front axle
FLM locker for rear (plus an extra in case I don't like the front remote lock setup)
Tekin FXR + 45T Tekin Pro
MG995 Servo (haven't bought a horn yet)


I think thats about it for now...any tips/feedback appreciated. ill post pics once Im done assembling and painting...thanks.

Steve


I have started my build...I don't have all the parts and accessories I ordered yet but thought I would start the stuff I know I'm not modding right away...
I organized my parts and inventoried the entire kit...only thing that appears to be missing is VEN-8314 2 x 6mm SH CAP SCREW. I dont see this actually used anywhere in the instructions. It refers to it on the front axle but it doesn't show anyplace for it. I have some already so no big deal but odd...

Got the trans built last night the during build shots weren't in focus so here is finished shots as if no one has seen the trans before It is super tight so I did just like another member here and assembled and ran it with drill for a bit and took apart and cleaned and then reassembled. Still tight but better.



Last edited by smr; 01-21-2010 at 06:15 PM. Reason: adding build info
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:57 PM   #2
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All the material ready to shrink wrap the pins on cvds (aluminum can and heat shrink )

I think thats about it for now...any tips/feedback appreciatted.
There is no need for this if you use a good thread lock correctly. ie clean the metal parts first with something like break clean to remove all the packing/assembly oil from the parts. Then assemble with good quality locktight, (not the stuff in the kit). Since the threaded surfaces are so small you need to be extra careful not to get oil from your hands / geese etc on the setscrew or thread during assembly. It's hard since everything around the setscrew needs grease. But get the set screw in, then grease, then assemble, push the pin through and tighten. Do it correctly, and they won't come out.
Same goes for the diff's set them up correctly and they won't pop out.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:56 PM   #3
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Have a good set of Hex drivers and pre thread the holes using a cap screw rather than trying to get a flat head with a tiny allen key to cut new threads. Patients and some strong wrists will get you through it!!
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:47 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tips...I already have my taps ready to pre thread the holes. I did how ever read even with proper threadlock and cleaning the pins still came out? Maybe they are bashing hard enough to break what ever is in front of them? I will see what happens. Start the build later this week.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:11 PM   #5
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I used a dremel and cut some small flat spots in the middle of the cvd pins so that the set screw would sit in it and they aren't going anywhere, I used heatshrink as well just incase.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:23 PM   #6
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There is no need for this if you use a good thread lock correctly. ie clean the metal parts first with something like break clean to remove all the packing/assembly oil from the parts. Then assemble with good quality locktight, (not the stuff in the kit). Since the threaded surfaces are so small you need to be extra careful not to get oil from your hands / geese etc on the setscrew or thread during assembly. It's hard since everything around the setscrew needs grease. But get the set screw in, then grease, then assemble, push the pin through and tighten. Do it correctly, and they won't come out.
Same goes for the diff's set them up correctly and they won't pop out.
You are the first one to hit the nail on the head I take electric motor cleaner and douche all the part when building CVD's or driveshafts. I've done this for years and never had a problem.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:13 PM   #7
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Hey welcome on board...

Yea take you time and enjoy your build and don't forget to post pics
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:48 AM   #8
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Thanks for the tips...I already have my taps ready to pre thread the holes. I did how ever read even with proper threadlock and cleaning the pins still came out? Maybe they are bashing hard enough to break what ever is in front of them? I will see what happens. Start the build later this week.
Yeah. I've cleaned mine de greased them used thread lock etc. and mine still come out sometimes. Not as often though as before I cleaned them though. The last time they came loose, I dabbed loc tite on the end of the pins so where it contacts on the outside of the cup it might help hold it some. Since I did that not one pin has come loose, not sure if it's just luck though lol.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:08 AM   #9
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I have a CVD come apart on my kids creeper over the weekend. Called Venom, and he suggested I run double grub screws (2.5mm x 2.5mm) on all the CVD's and the driveshafts (if still stock). As you can use both sides to hold the pin.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:48 AM   #10
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Question...what pinion you guys run? I bought a Tekin FXr and the tekin Pro 45T. I beleive I would need ot run a little smaller pinion then stock correct?
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:15 PM   #11
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I was running a Novak rooster crawler, HPI Saturn 35T, and the stock 15T pinion for a while. Swapped to a 12T pinion recently and Now I'm prebably going to swap back to a 15T pinion to gain that teensy bit of wheel speed back. Probably be adding a cell to my battery pack soon as well.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:49 AM   #12
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Question...what pinion you guys run? I bought a Tekin FXr and the tekin Pro 45T. I beleive I would need ot run a little smaller pinion then stock correct?
I run a 14t with my 45t, good wheel speed but didn't loose to much torque.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:17 PM   #13
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thanks I will try out with a 14t. I bought a 12t-16t set form LHS just in case...
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:06 PM   #14
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Default progress...

I know everyone likes pictures so thought I would keep posting them up...

I painted my creeper body a little simple. first time I have ever used liquid mask..


Candy Apple Red and Outlaw Black Pactra Spray Can



I assembled lower links and attached to trans with stock skids...





I am using taps for every part that screws into plastic....I read here that it helps and it certainly helps the wrist...I had to go to local micro tool company as LHS didnt have all the sizes but i got some real nice hardened drivers for real cheap..WIHA is the brand...
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:09 PM   #15
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Very nice job on your body Wiha makes really good tools, i've worked on machines for over 30 years I have an ass load.
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:10 PM   #16
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Default goodies

I almost forgot..some goodies arrived yesterday from CKRC CRawlers and RCBros....

HB Rovers, Tekin FXR +Pro 45T, CKRC Stage II Suspension kit, Venom locker servo kit, and couple other things


CKRC only had blue links in stock so I cleaned those up..btw don't put EZ Off in crunched up aluminum foil...it apparently burns the foil and creates a very, very, very large smoke bomb....my neighborhood was covered in what may have been deadly gas for about an hour...
polished with some mothers and a dremel..it was quite relaxing...
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:15 PM   #17
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Damn son, your set! Have fun with it.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:10 PM   #18
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Since I had receiv3ed my stage II kit I decided I would try to complete as much as time permitted this weekend.

Assembled tires with weight in front and none in rear. The LHS ran out of the screws I needed so i used stock sized screw in most locations on bead locks. I will change them out as needed.



Also finished assembling front axle assembly with heat shrink over pins and good thread lock on set screws.




Also assembled my shocks with stage II mods to them. I ran a 30wt oil I had on the shelf.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:15 PM   #19
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Also decided to break in new motor...first time I have ever done the under water break in before. Very interesting.

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Old 01-25-2010, 02:20 PM   #20
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I see that Venom finally put part #'s on the bags... That would of been nice when I was building mine. I took some time and labeled them myself before my build.

Looks great man keep the pics coming!
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