RCCrawler Forums

gottorque · 06-28-2010, 12:12 PM

Yes thats right. I will be using an Underground Crawlers F-4 (50-50) chassie along with an ax10 tranny and venom axles. This may take some work and testing to get set up right but it shuld turn out awesome . I will do the first mock up with the stock Venom links for mock up cause i dont have my revo link ends yet( in the mail). I also have to get a spur gear for the tranny cause it didnt have one
DSCF3022.JPG
DSCF3023.JPG

rmdesignworks · 06-28-2010, 04:13 PM

Juan makes a hella piece of Alloy. His stuff is taken off for sure but now since youve gone AX for power we get to brand you,,,halfbreed.

gottorque · 07-01-2010, 10:41 PM

Got another fairly major update. I had been a bit busy latley and had not ben able to work on it. However i spent most of this evening on it and just finished. I had said that i would use the lower stock links and upper stage II links... i got a 14 something in wheelbase. Yup not gonna fly. So tonight i built the links with 8-32 all thread. The uppers came out to 9.5 cm with ends and the lowers were 10.75 cm with ends. The wheel base is just shy of 12 in. Its a little short but according to USRCCA 2.2 rules there is no minimum wheelbase just a max. I will take it out tommorow and see how it does as well as put in the FLM spools that got here today. On to more pics

For thoes who may be wondering that is a very badly painted

Pro Line spyder. From the few posts ive read about it, it seems it never really appealed to anyone, mostly cause it was too wide and it is pretty wide. But mounted up on my truck it looks pretty scale(ish), with the shorter wb. It reminds me of Dibbles ASM buggy from the '06 TTC

gottorque · 07-22-2010, 10:39 AM

I didnt like the shorter wb so i made new links out of 8-32 allthread and that brought the wb just shy of 12.5 in. The new warentee pinions solved that problem i had with the skipping diffs( The pinions i got in the kit were the wrong ones as the new ones i got were completly diffrent, but they work as they should).
with all the little bugs worked out i finally got to really drive it and man is it a step up from my 1.9 mini i have had for a year now. There is no competition. I ran two 1300 packs through it and so far so good.
The topless shots

On the rocks

Just a side note, I never run the spyder body. Its really awkward and the tires rub constantly so its on the shelf

WICKED MQ · 07-22-2010, 02:03 PM

Loving the spare

How tippy is it now?

C*H*U*D · 07-22-2010, 04:38 PM

I just happened to catch this today...you said you had special plans for this chassis, so I've been keeping an eye out for it. Now I know why I haven't seen it yet...it's been hiding out in the Creeper section.

I've been checking out this section more and more lately....my Creeper showed up last week. For $100, I had to find out what the story is with this truck. Looking forward to building it up.

gottorque · 07-23-2010, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WICKED MQ

Loving the spare

How tippy is it now?

Its not really noticible since i have a good amount of lead weight up front. I also have it just set on the wheel so when it catches something, the tire pulls off and prevents the creeper from getting hung up

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I just happened to catch this today...you said you had special plans for this chassis, so I've been keeping an eye out for it. Now I know why I haven't seen it yet...it's been hiding out in the Creeper section.

I've been checking out this section more and more lately....my Creeper showed up last week. For $100, I had to find out what the story is with this truck. Looking forward to building it up.

I never did tell you it would be creeper based

. but seriously i had always followed the original ff-4 and f-4 builds and had wanted one from the start. I got a venom for the same reason you did and i was like "screw it...im getting an f-4 chassis from you and making it work".

Im still not sure why i got a white skid instead of black

...every thing else on it it is red and black...oh well

gottorque · 08-02-2010, 03:46 PM

I cracked an axle c last week along with destroying a cvd pin in the right front. I ordered parts from ckrc but as a tempory fix i glued it with some thin CA and have a custom pin in the cvd from a body clip and a wrap of duct tape to hold it in. Even though my replacement c's came in today i didnt put them on cause the cracked one was still holding up, which was good. so i charged up my battery and drove out to one of my favorite local spots. Whitewash, to run it and test out my custom settings on my sidewinder that i changed yesterday. It has alot more punch

to it but i must have canged somethng cause it has delayed reverse. That wasnt stopping me from crawling

.
Im still amazed with my HH 2s 1300 battery. I did an hour of up hill climbing with lots of throttle and rock raced all the way down to the car. I plugged it in when i got home..it was only at 7 volts after all that. pretty impressive

I put the big bores on it from my now dismantled mini and in the process of tuning the oil and springs to my liking. The fronts are pretty much dialed, its just the rears need some work. The left rear has 50 wt oil and and Axial Grey( hard) spring. There is no torque twist but at the same time there is no movement...which is bad. After some further testing ill let you know
Heres some pics from todays outing

f

rmdesignworks · 08-02-2010, 04:53 PM

Hey Bro,,,The number one reason you are suffering TT is in the yellow circle in the pic below,,,the rear upper links need to be raised and seperated at the axle, you need anti-squat and you need to change your longitudinal roll center.

My $0.02 worth of tech advise,,,

make a plate for the rear axle to move the upper links. raise them up about 1/2" to 3/4" and spread them apart about 2". you can also lower the rear upper links at the chassis maybe one hole each side.

Move you lower rear links to the outside position of the axle lower link mounts to regain your triangulation. when you do this you will lose a bit of wheel base so,,maybe some new lower links.

Then you can run the same oil and spring in the left rear as you do in the right rear. You may have a little bit of TT still but it will be much better than stock or what you have now

gottorque · 08-02-2010, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Hey Bro,,,The number one reason you are suffering TT is in the yellow circle in the pic below,,,the rear upper links need to be raised and seperated at the axle, you need anti-squat and you need to change your longitudinal roll center.

My $0.02 worth of tech advise,,,

make a plate for the rear axle to move the upper links. raise them up about 1/2" to 3/4" and spread them apart about 2". you can also lower the rear upper links at the chassis maybe one hole each side.

Move you lower rear links to the outside position of the axle lower link mounts to regain your triangulation. when you do this you will lose a bit of wheel base so,,maybe some new lower links.

Then you can run the same oil and spring in the left rear as you do in the right rear. You may have a little bit of TT still but it will be much better than stock or what you have now

Following Rm's advise, i switched the links to the shock mounts and the shocks to the inside and put the same spring on as the right rear. It feels smoother now. I lost about .2 inches off the WB but thats fine. The uppers were moved down 2 holes on the chassis

Rm, I would like to make a plate that will seperate the links and raise them but i dont have the equipment to make anything custom like that. Edit, I could pick up another creeper servo plate and then drill holes like yours in your build thread. Ill give it a shot

rmdesignworks · 08-02-2010, 05:59 PM

ok well,,,short term you do at least the following,,,,the gap in between the mount on the axle where the upper links mount to the axle is 15mm or right at 9/16"...fill that gap first with ball ends and the washer that go there or a spacer...the add at least one ball end to the outside of the mount on both sides of the mount and re-attach the upper links to the axle,,,this will seperate them. you will see a difference now,,but the plate will be the real deal when fighting the TT. let me know if you need more specs or info...

rmdesignworks · 08-02-2010, 06:02 PM

the idea is to get the upper rear links as close to parallel to each other as possible...then deal with raising them. one thing at a time. i can make you a custom plate for the axle if you like which will be hand fab'd but if you buy a hand fab'd one from me now i will send you a machined one later minus the cost of the hand made one.

rmdesignworks · 08-02-2010, 06:04 PM

also,,can you get a wheels off pic from the side so i can see your pinion angles front and rear?

gottorque · 08-02-2010, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

also,,can you get a wheels off pic from the side so i can see your pinion angles front and rear?

Im going out for the evening but i will post up later on tonight when i get home

rmdesignworks · 08-02-2010, 06:42 PM

thinkin about it for the last few minutes,,,I have a conclusion. Pm me with your mailing address. SInce you are willing to make changes it helps to prove a point. i will provide the plate to you to further prove the point.

gottorque · 08-02-2010, 10:42 PM

Here are the pinion angles. (crap phone pics sorry)
Rear

Front

rmdesignworks · 08-03-2010, 09:37 PM

Your pinion angles look pretty good,,I say that cuz they are close to mine,,,

I have some major things going on at work the next couple of days but I will get that plate made before the weekend and get it shipped out to you...You can refer to the pics n my thread to see how to set the links up,,,if you have any questions feel free to post them up or pm me,,,we will get it working right for you

gottorque · 08-03-2010, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Your pinion angles look pretty good,,I say that cuz they are close to mine,,,

I have some major things going on at work the next couple of days but I will get that plate made before the weekend and get it shipped out to you...You can refer to the pics n my thread to see how to set the links up,,,if you have any questions feel free to post them up or pm me,,,we will get it working right for you

allrighty, no hurry
Thanks thomas

gottorque · 08-06-2010, 12:16 PM

Got a couple more pics from planter crawling this morning

I got a couple of things orderd from TCS this morning
Savox Standard servo. has a bit more torque than the 645 but in the same price range... It will be better than what i have now(airtronincs out of an onroad car

) on my second one now
Set of mmmmmmmmm grip rovers

(gonna get paradox foams for them)
and a robitronics red servo horn to match the rest of my truck

rmdesignworks · 08-06-2010, 04:54 PM

POSER!!!!! good pics man...good to see it running. Let me know on the foams, Ill hook you up.

06-28-2010, 12:12 PM	#1
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	gottorque's Underground Creeper Yes thats right. I will be using an Underground Crawlers F-4 (50-50) chassie along with an ax10 tranny and venom axles. This may take some work and testing to get set up right but it shuld turn out awesome . I will do the first mock up with the stock Venom links for mock up cause i dont have my revo link ends yet( in the mail). I also have to get a spur gear for the tranny cause it didnt have one DSCF3022.JPG DSCF3023.JPG Attached Images

07-01-2010, 10:41 PM	#3
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	Got another fairly major update. I had been a bit busy latley and had not ben able to work on it. However i spent most of this evening on it and just finished. I had said that i would use the lower stock links and upper stage II links... i got a 14 something in wheelbase. Yup not gonna fly. So tonight i built the links with 8-32 all thread. The uppers came out to 9.5 cm with ends and the lowers were 10.75 cm with ends. The wheel base is just shy of 12 in. Its a little short but according to USRCCA 2.2 rules there is no minimum wheelbase just a max. I will take it out tommorow and see how it does as well as put in the FLM spools that got here today. On to more pics For thoes who may be wondering that is a very badly painted Pro Line spyder. From the few posts ive read about it, it seems it never really appealed to anyone, mostly cause it was too wide and it is pretty wide. But mounted up on my truck it looks pretty scale(ish), with the shorter wb. It reminds me of Dibbles ASM buggy from the '06 TTC Attached Images

07-22-2010, 10:39 AM	#4
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	I didnt like the shorter wb so i made new links out of 8-32 allthread and that brought the wb just shy of 12.5 in. The new warentee pinions solved that problem i had with the skipping diffs( The pinions i got in the kit were the wrong ones as the new ones i got were completly diffrent, but they work as they should). with all the little bugs worked out i finally got to really drive it and man is it a step up from my 1.9 mini i have had for a year now. There is no competition. I ran two 1300 packs through it and so far so good. The topless shots On the rocks Just a side note, I never run the spyder body. Its really awkward and the tires rub constantly so its on the shelf Last edited by gottorque; 07-24-2010 at 10:06 PM.

07-22-2010, 02:03 PM	#5
WICKED MQ Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: QLD, AUS Posts: 252	Loving the spare How tippy is it now? Last edited by WICKED MQ; 07-22-2010 at 06:03 PM.

08-02-2010, 03:46 PM	#8
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	I cracked an axle c last week along with destroying a cvd pin in the right front. I ordered parts from ckrc but as a tempory fix i glued it with some thin CA and have a custom pin in the cvd from a body clip and a wrap of duct tape to hold it in. Even though my replacement c's came in today i didnt put them on cause the cracked one was still holding up, which was good. so i charged up my battery and drove out to one of my favorite local spots. Whitewash, to run it and test out my custom settings on my sidewinder that i changed yesterday. It has alot more punch to it but i must have canged somethng cause it has delayed reverse. That wasnt stopping me from crawling. Im still amazed with my HH 2s 1300 battery. I did an hour of up hill climbing with lots of throttle and rock raced all the way down to the car. I plugged it in when i got home..it was only at 7 volts after all that. pretty impressive I put the big bores on it from my now dismantled mini and in the process of tuning the oil and springs to my liking. The fronts are pretty much dialed, its just the rears need some work. The left rear has 50 wt oil and and Axial Grey( hard) spring. There is no torque twist but at the same time there is no movement...which is bad. After some further testing ill let you know Heres some pics from todays outing f

06-28-2010, 04:13 PM	#2
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	Juan makes a hella piece of Alloy. His stuff is taken off for sure but now since youve gone AX for power we get to brand you,,,halfbreed.

07-22-2010, 04:38 PM	#6
CHU*D No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO Posts: 4,529	I just happened to catch this today...you said you had special plans for this chassis, so I've been keeping an eye out for it. Now I know why I haven't seen it yet...it's been hiding out in the Creeper section. I've been checking out this section more and more lately....my Creeper showed up last week. For $100, I had to find out what the story is with this truck. Looking forward to building it up.

08-02-2010, 04:53 PM	#9
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	Hey Bro,,,The number one reason you are suffering TT is in the yellow circle in the pic below,,,the rear upper links need to be raised and seperated at the axle, you need anti-squat and you need to change your longitudinal roll center. My $0.02 worth of tech advise,,, make a plate for the rear axle to move the upper links. raise them up about 1/2" to 3/4" and spread them apart about 2". you can also lower the rear upper links at the chassis maybe one hole each side. Move you lower rear links to the outside position of the axle lower link mounts to regain your triangulation. when you do this you will lose a bit of wheel base so,,maybe some new lower links. Then you can run the same oil and spring in the left rear as you do in the right rear. You may have a little bit of TT still but it will be much better than stock or what you have now Attached Images

08-02-2010, 05:59 PM	#11
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	ok well,,,short term you do at least the following,,,,the gap in between the mount on the axle where the upper links mount to the axle is 15mm or right at 9/16"...fill that gap first with ball ends and the washer that go there or a spacer...the add at least one ball end to the outside of the mount on both sides of the mount and re-attach the upper links to the axle,,,this will seperate them. you will see a difference now,,but the plate will be the real deal when fighting the TT. let me know if you need more specs or info...

08-02-2010, 06:02 PM	#12
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	the idea is to get the upper rear links as close to parallel to each other as possible...then deal with raising them. one thing at a time. i can make you a custom plate for the axle if you like which will be hand fab'd but if you buy a hand fab'd one from me now i will send you a machined one later minus the cost of the hand made one.

08-02-2010, 06:04 PM	#13
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	also,,can you get a wheels off pic from the side so i can see your pinion angles front and rear?

08-02-2010, 06:42 PM	#15
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	thinkin about it for the last few minutes,,,I have a conclusion. Pm me with your mailing address. SInce you are willing to make changes it helps to prove a point. i will provide the plate to you to further prove the point.

08-02-2010, 10:42 PM	#16
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	Here are the pinion angles. (crap phone pics sorry) Rear Front

08-03-2010, 09:37 PM	#17
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	Your pinion angles look pretty good,,I say that cuz they are close to mine,,, I have some major things going on at work the next couple of days but I will get that plate made before the weekend and get it shipped out to you...You can refer to the pics n my thread to see how to set the links up,,,if you have any questions feel free to post them up or pm me,,,we will get it working right for you

08-06-2010, 12:16 PM	#19
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	Got a couple more pics from planter crawling this morning I got a couple of things orderd from TCS this morning Savox Standard servo. has a bit more torque than the 645 but in the same price range... It will be better than what i have now(airtronincs out of an onroad car) on my second one now Set of mmmmmmmmm grip rovers(gonna get paradox foams for them) and a robitronics red servo horn to match the rest of my truck

Sponsored Links

08-06-2010, 04:54 PM	#20
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	POSER!!!!! good pics man...good to see it running. Let me know on the foams, Ill hook you up.

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