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dpdsurf's Fubar Skeeterberg

i need 2 of those. broken ears. not as bad as yours. can't find just the top cap. looks like your have to buy alum. piece and top case and bottom. :-(bummer...lmk if u find a place to buy top cap only

Yeah I was wondering if a cap for one of their other servos would work. Because it's the aluminum part that is marking it up so high. It suck you have to but the part that is likely to never get damaged. Their plastic is definately more brittle than others. Guess I will have to use those annoying rubber things or something.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/10556
 
oops:-(

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Where can I find a replacement case? They seam to be on backorder.

Do i even want to know how this happened? :lol::lol:

Hope you get it up and running again, SOON!!
 
Do i even want to know how this happened? :lol::lol:

Hope you get it up and running again, SOON!!

Well, I knew one of the tabs was broken but did not even notice this until I was dismantling my rig the other night. The way I have the servo mounted allowed it to steer just fine with it like this. So I can't say how it happened. :lol: I'm doing a complete rig overhaul so I can have it all ready for the Nor-Cal finals on June 7th!
 
I think i said it before wow that is nice

Thanks man

So I have gotten away from the bigger batteries. I was running a 11.1v 2250 30/60C which allowed for 67.5 for a amp draw . This is Zippy Lipo is 11.1v 1500 20/30C for only 30 amps. It may seam low for an MOA but so far so good. I got 1-1/2" (I mean hours :mrgreen:) of continuous crawling out of the other night with no noticable difference.

What I like is that it does not get into the upper links and move around under articulation.

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Thanks man

So I have gotten away from the bigger batteries. I was running a 11.1v 2250 30/60C which allowed for 67.5 for a amp draw . This is Zippy Lipo is 11.1v 1500 20/30C for only 30 amps. It may seam low for an MOA but so far so good. I got 1-1/2" of continuous crawling out of the other night with no noticable difference.

What I like is that it does not get into the upper links and move around under articulation.

WOW, that lasted long:flipoff::lmao::ror:
 
Dog Bone Surgery

I saw that Cruzin Illusion had found some 2.5mmx12mm HPI pins to repair their dog bones with. I had been thinking for a while that if anything I wanted slightly longer pins. I found these on McMaster. Search part #91595A070 if the link does not work.

They are 2.5x14 hardened steel dowel pins w/ 1157 lbs of shear strength. They have a beveled end which makes setting it in the vice for pressing real easy. The beveled part is later ground off as 14mm is too long to clear the c's.

To remove the broken pin, tap it out just enough to get some vice grips on it. The vice grips pull it out easily once you have just enough to lock them on there. I learned with the first one that if you tap too far it will open up the hole too much to hold the new pin securely in place.

Pressed in with a drill press vice.
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Tap the rest of the way with a hammer. I just eyeballed them. This is also how I mounted it in the vice for tapping out the broken pin.
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Grinding off the bevel.
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I now have a plethora of spares and pins for future repairs. "thumbsup" I used them in a comp today with very high traction and they worked great.
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Nice work Dave. "thumbsup"

Question. Does the longer pin let you steer any farther before they pop out of the cups?

Thanks Brandon,

I am running the CKRC high steer knuckles which brings the outdrives too far out, so the pin still sticks out on full lock. I'm putting on the Vanquish knuckles later this week so I will be able to tell then if the longer pin helps. But at a minimum I don't have to drop $3.50 per dog bone anymore. :mrgreen:
 
Thanks Brandon,

I am running the CKRC high steer knuckles which brings the outdrives too far out, so the pin still sticks out on full lock. I'm putting on the Vanquish knuckles later this week so I will be able to tell then if the longer pin helps. But at a minimum I don't have to drop $3.50 per dog bone anymore. :mrgreen:

Yeah looks like a money saver for sure. I still haven't blown up any axles myself but being able to replace the pin is great since it's what seems to break most often.
 
I just ran these HPI wheels with Rovers at WCC for 2 days, 8 courses. My Vanquish bead locks are up for sale. I'm a convert. The offset and light weight in the rear can't be beat right now. I am confident the wheels will last for the life of the tire. At $10 a set I'll buy new wheels with tires from now on.

I had a great time at WCC and placed 17 out of 85. I finished every course but 1 that I missed by about 5 feet. Overall I was pleased with my results.

Photo by racer - x
 

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I just ran these HPI wheels with Rovers at WCC for 2 days, 8 courses. My Vanquish bead locks are up for sale. I'm a convert. The offset and light weight in the rear can't be beat right now. I am confident the wheels will last for the life of the tire. At $10 a set I'll buy new wheels with tires from now on.

I had a great time at WCC and placed 17 out of 85. I finished every course but 1 that I missed by about 5 feet. Overall I was pleased with my results.

Photo by racer - x

My wheels are on a diet too. Trying some new ideas similar to you. I have heavy wheels with Rovers and another set of Light wheels with Panthers. Really liking the light set up but wondering how the Rovers do with no weight. The Panthers do great but seem too short to me now :?.

Anything negative about the rovers you noticed with the light set up?
 
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