Szczerba's 2012.2 Secret Agent'd 3.5 Bodiless Berg

[Szczerba]

Hello Shane,

well done at Nats... I'm fan of your driving style. A question though : you're the third guy I see modifying the SA chassis front (Del Monte & Racer_ZH also did), so what this mod brings ?
Ty,
Emmanuel.

Thanks for the complements.

Almighty Malach mentioned I should widen my shocks out at the chassis. With the shocks laided back and the narrow distance at the chassis point shock mounts makes for a quick reacting suspension setup.
Space the shocks out at the chassis and the action is slowed due to the shock angle.
When the truck flexes side to side, one wheel at full flex and one at full droop on the same axle, the fully compressed shock should be close to perpendicular to the axle. So, spacing the shock out at the chassis helps this.

So, in short, try to get the chassis mounting points of the shocks close to the same distance as the axle mount points.
I only had time to space the fronts out between comp runs and it really helped smooth the front flex out.
Of course all trucks are different and drivers like different setups.
Sorry for the long explanation.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Interesting that you only got 10g. I thought it would be closer to 20. Is that with bearings in both sets?

Do you have a set of stock tubes that you could weigh?

 

[Szczerba]

Interesting that you only got 10g. I thought it would be closer to 20. Is that with bearings in both sets?

Yes. Bearings in both sets. And the aluminum spacers on the clovers.
Grams make ounces so a 10 gram loss is fine with me "thumbsup"

No bearings in your front tubes will probably render a bigger weight loss. I'll disassemble in the morning.

Closest comparison I have is stock tubes with ckrc lockouts and bearings, 98 grams.

....

 

[Erik D_lux]

Seems like your scale might weigh things heavier? I have a pair of stock tubes at 78g without bearings. Think bearings and CKRC lockouts would add 20g?

 

[Szczerba]

you called it
two different scales

 

[Tgreer]

Are you doing some dlux tubes? Maybe a dlux rear axle? Both are super products, you will not be disappointed!!!

Are you giving the twin plate chassis a go, if so I will be interested to see how it works out on a berg! Keep up the good work, you and manning are the ones I always strive to beat, because you guys are so damn good! Keep up the good work and good work at Nats!"thumbsup"

I'm strongly eyeballing a T1E Specail Ops!:mrgreen:

 

[Szczerba]

Are you doing some dlux tubes? Maybe a dlux rear axle? Both are super products, you will not be disappointed!!!

Are you giving the twin plate chassis a go, if so I will be interested to see how it works out on a berg! Keep up the good work, you and manning are the ones I always strive to beat, because you guys are so damn good! Keep up the good work and good work at Nats!"thumbsup"

I'm strongly eyeballing a T1E Specail Ops!:mrgreen:

DLux tubes on all four corners coming up soon. Rear weigh in back on page 10.
DLux rear 8mm Aluminum axles and some other changes as well.

The DD chassis will probably be getting it's own berg axles. Pretty much the remaining parts from what I am replacing now.
Thanks for the compliments. And don't sell yourself short, you progressed pretty quick from your first comp.

 

[Tgreer]

O, I'm not selling myself short, this year my goal was top 5 in state, next year I'm qualifying for nationals!:twisted:

 

[Harvo]

Shane, I have a pair of these on the way too. Erik expained to me that the mounts can go any where I want them side to side, but what about the actual link mount holes? Are they the same distance away from the tube (can the same lowers be used). I'm assuming so.

Any thoughts on what you are going to do on steering? The servo will be lower than with the CCD tubes.

 

[Szczerba]

O, I'm not selling myself short, this year my goal was top 5 in state, next year I'm qualifying for nationals!:twisted:

Well, all righty then "thumbsup"

Shane, I have a pair of these on the way too. Erik expained to me that the mounts can go any where I want them side to side, but what about the actual link mount holes? Are they the same distance away from the tube (can the same lowers be used). I'm assuming so.

Any thoughts on what you are going to do on steering? The servo will be lower than with the CCD tubes.

Link mount holes appear to be same as stock from axle. If different , won't be by much.
I'll just put everything together and figure out the steering. Servo can always be spaced up. One can always run the drag link under the servo horn. Shouldn't be that big of a deal.

 

[Szczerba]

Don't know if all these tube weight comparisons have been posted before. But if they have, you'll just have to grin and bear them.


front clovers with bearings and steering mount


front DLux with steering mount, no need for stinking bearings. axle shaft support all on knuckle bearings. Which is perfectly fine if you run DLux knuckle bushings in the knuckles. Hardly any slop there.

 

[helhedded]

noice!

 

[Tgreer]

I don't know about the CC link mounts, but I did measure the dlux ones compared to stock, and I believe the distance from the tube to the mount holes was the same, or really close, but obviously the adjustment side to side and rotated around the tube is unlimited.

 

[Szczerba]

noice!

Yep, I am waiting for the rear 8mm aluminum axle shafts that will shed about 30 grams from the 6mms.

I don't know about the CC link mounts, but I did measure the dlux ones compared to stock, and I believe the distance from the tube to the mount holes was the same, or really close, but obviously the adjustment side to side and rotated around the tube is unlimited.

I am almost positive they are the same from talking to Erik at Nationals. I am not worried about it, like you said there are other adjustments a plenty.

 

[Erik D_lux]

You can shed some more weight out of that servo mount too if you want to replace the screws with aluminum.

 

[RcBro]

Thank you for the weight comparisons above "thumbsup"

 

[CrawlrKing]

Thanks for the complements.

Almighty Malach mentioned I should widen my shocks out at the chassis. With the shocks laided back and the narrow distance at the chassis point shock mounts makes for a quick reacting suspension setup.
Space the shocks out at the chassis and the action is slowed due to the shock angle.
When the truck flexes side to side, one wheel at full flex and one at full droop on the same axle, the fully compressed shock should be close to perpendicular to the axle. So, spacing the shock out at the chassis helps this.

So, in short, try to get the chassis mounting points of the shocks close to the same distance as the axle mount points.
I only had time to space the fronts out between comp runs and it really helped smooth the front flex out.
Of course all trucks are different and drivers like different setups.
Sorry for the long explanation.

Any close pics of how you did it ? Did you double the small cf part ? New order ?

 

[Szczerba]

You can shed some more weight out of that servo mount too if you want to replace the screws with aluminum.

I'll swap em out soon. Forgot about those.

Thank you for the weight comparisons above "thumbsup"

Yep. Wasn't sure if the direction comparison weights were out there or not.

Any close pics of how you did it ? Did you double the small cf part ? New order ?

There are small carbon fiber chassis pieces up front and out back. I didn't have to make anything new. Works out good to keep the mounts in double shear as well. I just used a combination of revo rod end balls.
See picture below. I can get a better one tonight if needed.
I had to use steel rod end balls but I have new aluminum ones waiting for install.

On another note, dropping the cases off at the machinst later today. "thumbsup"

 

[Szczerba]

.
Titanium with aluminum ball ends. 2 Jato, 6 revo



Sniper Fab Shop carbon tubes with aluminum ball ends. All revo ends.

 

[Manning]

Wow. Almost an ounce right there.