-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
A Tale of... SCX based Chevy and the Rebuild
- Thread starter drzoo2
- Start date
Thank you.
Looking forward in getting to a drivable state.
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Lots of updates....
The Duplicolor Cherry red paint I showed previously in the engine bay came out like complete garbage on the body. Most of my issue was humidity related since our weather was sticky. Cause blotchy spots and the paint just looked like shit.
Pissed off at the outcome, I grabbed some Tamyia in my other color choice (which was originally my first choice) from the LHS, ripped out the accessories from the engine bay and redid the whole color scheme.
All Gunmetal
Body is finished and I shot black on all my metal parts. I also designed and printed tow mirrors. Just for fun I cut some vinyl and added some detail to the rear. I don't think I'm going to do more than this.
I moved my servo winch to the rear and added a 3D printed gas tank to hide it. When getting paint at the LHS I picked up some brass tube to route the winch line to the front. I added a printed block to mount the light bar and for a place for the tube to end just before the fairlead.
I finally started wiring and am in the middle of it now. I'm trying to decide if I want to add the detail I had in the orignal build with working signals and such. While a fun project, space is at a premium and I don't know if I'll end up with room for the uController.
Motor wires run along side fender through some clips I made and route down under interior to the ESC.
The rest of the electronics are hidden under the dash. This is where I may run out of space and have to scale back what I can fit in these two locations. Wiring is a bit of a mess here as I'm no where done. Just put together for a quick test run.
The Duplicolor Cherry red paint I showed previously in the engine bay came out like complete garbage on the body. Most of my issue was humidity related since our weather was sticky. Cause blotchy spots and the paint just looked like shit.
Pissed off at the outcome, I grabbed some Tamyia in my other color choice (which was originally my first choice) from the LHS, ripped out the accessories from the engine bay and redid the whole color scheme.
All Gunmetal
Body is finished and I shot black on all my metal parts. I also designed and printed tow mirrors. Just for fun I cut some vinyl and added some detail to the rear. I don't think I'm going to do more than this.
I moved my servo winch to the rear and added a 3D printed gas tank to hide it. When getting paint at the LHS I picked up some brass tube to route the winch line to the front. I added a printed block to mount the light bar and for a place for the tube to end just before the fairlead.
I finally started wiring and am in the middle of it now. I'm trying to decide if I want to add the detail I had in the orignal build with working signals and such. While a fun project, space is at a premium and I don't know if I'll end up with room for the uController.
Motor wires run along side fender through some clips I made and route down under interior to the ESC.
The rest of the electronics are hidden under the dash. This is where I may run out of space and have to scale back what I can fit in these two locations. Wiring is a bit of a mess here as I'm no where done. Just put together for a quick test run.
SAL45
Quarry Creeper
That is Awesome! Welcome to the 3d printer world! I have been doing the same as you for my scaler projects! I love having the ability to print and prototype parts! Love the build and scale details!
valheru
Quarry Creeper
Like the hidden wiring, electronics and winch.
Great work on your 3D design! That motor is as good as some sold by some of the 3D print companies out there!
I don't print while I'm sleeping. I print while I'm at work. I bought an inexpensive Amcrest WiFi security camera and I bought a Wemo smart outlet. I can periodically log into my camera via my PC at work and see what's going on. If it's printing nicely I continue to let it print. If I ever see an issue I get my phone and toggle off the Wemo smart outlet and it kills power to the 3D printer. Works great!
I don't print while I'm sleeping. I print while I'm at work. I bought an inexpensive Amcrest WiFi security camera and I bought a Wemo smart outlet. I can periodically log into my camera via my PC at work and see what's going on. If it's printing nicely I continue to let it print. If I ever see an issue I get my phone and toggle off the Wemo smart outlet and it kills power to the 3D printer. Works great!
Thank guys. I'm having a lot of fun designing and printing my own parts. I enjoy Styrene building but I was never really good at it. Just run out of patience doing detail.
Most of this build is my own design but the intake, heads and valve covers are from Thingiverse. I ditched the block that was part of that kit and started from scratch to fit into my build. I also designed all of the engine accessories. I should post a link to where I got these parts. If I didn't mention it earlier I should have. When I get some time I will add a links to the outside sources for attribution.
1 time I let it run while I slept. I didn't sleep too well. My longest print was about 13hours. I've been starting them real early on the weekend keeping an eye for the duration
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Most of this build is my own design but the intake, heads and valve covers are from Thingiverse. I ditched the block that was part of that kit and started from scratch to fit into my build. I also designed all of the engine accessories. I should post a link to where I got these parts. If I didn't mention it earlier I should have. When I get some time I will add a links to the outside sources for attribution.
1 time I let it run while I slept. I didn't sleep too well. My longest print was about 13hours. I've been starting them real early on the weekend keeping an eye for the duration
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
For attribution, here are links to the parts that I used from Thingiverse.
Engine parts: (Note, I used the heads, intake, valve covers and headers. All other parts and accessories are mine.)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2401597
Radiator
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442912
Battery
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753308
I'm happy to share any of my parts used on this build. I have my own site and can post links from there if requested. Everything is drawn in Freecad and can provide stl's or Freecad files for modification. That said, Freecad has it's quirks and really only small mods are possible without breaking the file.
Engine parts: (Note, I used the heads, intake, valve covers and headers. All other parts and accessories are mine.)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2401597
Radiator
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442912
Battery
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753308
I'm happy to share any of my parts used on this build. I have my own site and can post links from there if requested. Everything is drawn in Freecad and can provide stl's or Freecad files for modification. That said, Freecad has it's quirks and really only small mods are possible without breaking the file.
Last edited:
While I'm figuring out my winch and light controller mounting and wiring, I decided I needed to get this out running to find weak points. I'm most concerned with the 3d printed transfercase.
Finally a few pics that don't consist of my bench.
@Zomb13 has started building a crawler course in his back yard so it seemed fitting to shake down the truck there vs on the trail.
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Finally a few pics that don't consist of my bench.
@Zomb13 has started building a crawler course in his back yard so it seemed fitting to shake down the truck there vs on the trail.
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
hotrodsoup
Quarry Creeper
WOW!!!! What a build!!! Detail is unreal!!!! "thumbsup"
Thank you.
I have the parts I need to finish up the electronics on order. Hopefully this week I can get the tail, signal, headlights and winch working similar to my old setup. That should be about it.
I modeled the fitment since space is limited. Going to do point to point wiring similar to my old controller. I can route some PCBs later and add them when I get to it.
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Working on the electronics part of the build tonight after my parts arrived today. I started laying them out per my model.
These will fit inside the boxes I made under the dash
And this is were I'm stopping for the night.
I need to steal a bit of wire and a handful of resistors tomorrow from work. Hoping to eventually route a PCB for these but in the mean time, I'm using point to point wiring and protoboard. I just need to get this done. I've use this method a lot. Just messy.
These will fit inside the boxes I made under the dash
And this is were I'm stopping for the night.
I need to steal a bit of wire and a handful of resistors tomorrow from work. Hoping to eventually route a PCB for these but in the mean time, I'm using point to point wiring and protoboard. I just need to get this done. I've use this method a lot. Just messy.
That is awesome! I hope you get into it and have as much fun as I have. It makes me happy that this build has inspired others.
With that said, this build is about at a close. Maybe some loose ends as I find them on the trails but, I finally finished the wiring!
The upper assembly is a FET driver board for the LEDs. My previous circuit drove the LEDs direct from the Arduino and that limited the total current I could source from it to about 140mA total for all LEDs. Using a driver board allows me to run them at rating and hence, increase the brightness. The lower board is 2 relays in an H Bridge configuration. I have a FET circuit designed to drive the winch but it is need of serious testing. Without stealing my scope from work, and having little motor experience, I'm not sure how much energy is stored as inductance in the motor. The relay mitigates that because they are normally grounded when off (in my circuit) shunting any stored energy.
The boxes ended up being perfectly sized for the controller and driver stacks. Once I put the dash on it's all hidden with the wires ran around the fenders. For as much wiring as there is you can only spot it in a few small cracks.
If your curious as to what the Arduino's purpose is, I have a few short Youtube vids. The first is similar to this setup, just shown on @Zomb13 Yota. The second is from a few years back, on my first build of this truck.
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dvyHtzvDrmU" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MfcmWhVhH6c" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
There may be some people getting to gether this weekend so I'm hoping to get some poser shots soon.
Last edited:
I'm currently testing some 3D printed wheel hubs in order to tuck the wheels in as far a possible for Class 0. I dropped about 3mm from each side. I'm still looking for a solution to reduce this further as I'm still on the edge of qualifying for the class.
I eliminated the hex and designed them to mount directly to the pin. This is most likely the weak point and where I expect a failure to occur.
I'm able to tuck the wheel all the way to the tie rod. My only other option is a narrower wheel/tire combo. In these diameter wheels, it doesn't leave a lot of choice.
I have some 1.55 RC4WD wagon wheels I'm still going to experiment with. The rims are narrower but I will still have to find a small diameter tire (<4") that doesn't suck.
I eliminated the hex and designed them to mount directly to the pin. This is most likely the weak point and where I expect a failure to occur.
I'm able to tuck the wheel all the way to the tie rod. My only other option is a narrower wheel/tire combo. In these diameter wheels, it doesn't leave a lot of choice.
I have some 1.55 RC4WD wagon wheels I'm still going to experiment with. The rims are narrower but I will still have to find a small diameter tire (<4") that doesn't suck.
Surprisingly the platic printed wheel hubs made it through a 4hour Creek crawl. Inspecting after I got home, they showed no dicernable wear which surprised me. To further stress the drive train, I added an overdrive gear set to the front diff.
Some pics of the action..
Great day and stress test.
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Some pics of the action..
Great day and stress test.
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Since I first put this truck together I've been running RC4WD Mud Thrashers. They have actually been a pretty decent tire with CI duel stage foams but I've wanted to try other tires. In my relentless search for a small tire to fit this build, I found the 1.55 Pit Bull Rock beast are similar in size at around 3.85". I borrowed a set of 1.55 rims and mounted them up.... and hated the inner rim diameter. Figured I try stretching them on my 1.9 rims....
I absolutely love this combo. Coupled with the 3D printed hubs, the Rock Beasts are narrower than the Mud Thrashers and I should be legal for Class 0 with just a slight sidewall bulge.
I absolutely love this combo. Coupled with the 3D printed hubs, the Rock Beasts are narrower than the Mud Thrashers and I should be legal for Class 0 with just a slight sidewall bulge.
