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4PK Setups, Tips, Tricks and Help

Quick question relating to using 2 FXR's with the 4PK. When connecting the two esc's battery wiring, can I use 1 capacitor or do I need to use 2 capicitors? Thats the only question for now. I will have to redo all my wiring on my Berg now....only 1 week before Omaha:shock:
 
Quick question relating to using 2 FXR's with the 4PK. When connecting the two esc's battery wiring, can I use 1 capacitor or do I need to use 2 capicitors? Thats the only question for now. I will have to redo all my wiring on my Berg now....only 1 week before Omaha:shock:

I used two but that was just to be conservative. I would probably shoot Ty@tekin a PM and see if he will chime in here on the subject.
 
I used two but that was just to be conservative. I would probably shoot Ty@tekin a PM and see if he will chime in here on the subject.

Used 2 myself, works just fine. You could probably use one, but you would probably need to resize it. If you PM Ty, let us know what he has to say, I'm interested in the answer. Thanks.
 
THIS IS A GREAT THREAD!!
I hope it is stickeyed?


I just used this how to to set-up my dads killer krawler...(super style)
this guide worked great!!! and the vids just sealed the deal! his rig is ready to go with not that much time into programing...I never even opened the 4pk maunal:shock: all my info came from here "thumbsup" it was kinda over whelming at first but now that I have read this thread and gone through everything I realize it is SUPER easy and user friendly......I'm thinking I may sell my DX3r now:lol:
thanks to all who contrubuted!8)
 
THIS IS A GREAT THREAD!!
I hope it is stickeyed?


I just used this how to to set-up my dads killer krawler...(super style)
this guide worked great!!! and the vids just sealed the deal! his rig is ready to go with not that much time into programing...I never even opened the 4pk maunal:shock: all my info came from here "thumbsup" it was kinda over whelming at first but now that I have read this thread and gone through everything I realize it is SUPER easy and user friendly......I'm thinking I may sell my DX3r now:lol:
thanks to all who contrubuted!8)

Thanks man, go read the manual though it helps a ton! Just go put it in the batroom and read it over a week or something :D

I am not surprised at all at how many spektrum people want to switch after reading about or using a 4pk/3pk
 
Thanks man, go read the manual though it helps a ton! Just go put it in the batroom and read it over a week or something :D

I am not surprised at all at how many spektrum people want to switch after reading about or using a 4pk/3pk

Yup I brought my manual to class and read it front to back before I started messing with anything. Really helped!

I know of quite a few guys locally switching as well. I wouldn't be such an expert on it if it wasn't for you Josh "thumbsup"
 
Sorry to Hijack this real quick but great great forum wish there was a spektrum dx3r one like this.
Sorry.
 
Sorry to Hijack this real quick but great great forum wish there was a spektrum dx3r one like this.
Sorry.

Before I upgraded to the 4PK I found this thread useful.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113720

The DX3R just doesn't have as many options for programming so there isn't as much info. It is pretty standard, 3 position 3rd channel and EPA's are about the extent of what is typically used on it.
 
My LHS called today and my 4PK was in. I dont know if anyone has mentioned this but they are running a special now where they give you a second RX for free. SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!

I am charging it tonight and setting it up tomorrow.
 
this is gonna hurt

ok harley you talked me into a 4pk, got set it up and love it. Sensor is in the closet as a back up, DX3r and the two 3100,s going on the market. My big question today is have you tried to bind the 4pk with the spectrum recievers?
 
"Just go put it in the bathroom and read it over a week or something :grin:"

Ha! This is exactly where i leave my 4pk manual!!! i do my best reading here!!
 
Okay guys, got it all wired up and using Harley's latest setup. Worked good before hooking it up. After wiring ) all the electronics, the front motor does not turn as early as the rear motor. Here is the set up.

2 FXR's (same programming on each)
2 HH 35T motors
CC BEC plugged into channel 2
13 gauge wire all around
3 cell 2500 mAh lipo

I put the battery connection at the half way point between the two speedos.

To correct the difference, I ended up sub trimming the front and rear and now it seems okay. Should I have to do this or do I have something a little out of whack?

Can't wait to get some trigger time in.

Oh yeah, how do I get the dials so they can never be negative? Right now if you roll them too far back, front wheels go forward and rear wheels go backwards....hate to have that happen in the heat of battle....lol.
 
Not sure why you are having that issue with the motors. Just to make sure, you did plug in one FXR at a time and program it with the throttle correct?

To troubleshoot try swapping the motors from the front esc to the rear, that will eliminate the motors which I highly doubt is the problem.
 
I was helping someone else out with this same issue. I have never had an issue programming either of my 2 trucks with twin FXR's. He ended up sub-trimming his as well. I just don't understand what the issue is :?:

One thing to try, program the throttle positions at the same time for both RX's.
 
I set mine up today. Seemed very simple. I am running a shafty so I didnt need to worry about mixing. I liked how I could set the point values per dial. I set my Dig to DT-3 with a 30 point value. It always starts in 4X4, hit the button once it goes to freewheel, hit it again and it locks the rear. Than just click the opposite button to sequence back through the other modes.

No little glitches like I was getting from my FM M8. It was 6 years old, rode hard, and put away wet. ;-)

I was a little surprised about the battery life though. A set of duracells in my M8 would last me weeks of casual use. I charged it all night last night so it was at 7.3 volts this morning. After having it on for about 1 hour the thing had dropped to 6.5 volts. I believe the alarm sounds at 5 volts. So I am guessing the battery will last about 3 hours. Maybe this is normal for internal packs. I dont know I always used store bought batteries.

Overall I am very satisfied with it so far. We will see how it performs in competition tomorrow."thumbsup"
 
I set mine up today. Seemed very simple. I am running a shafty so I didnt need to worry about mixing. I liked how I could set the point values per dial. I set my Dig to DT-3 with a 30 point value. It always starts in 4X4, hit the button once it goes to freewheel, hit it again and it locks the rear. Than just click the opposite button to sequence back through the other modes.

No little glitches like I was getting from my FM M8. It was 6 years old, rode hard, and put away wet. ;-)

I was a little surprised about the battery life though. A set of duracells in my M8 would last me weeks of casual use. I charged it all night last night so it was at 7.3 volts this morning. After having it on for about 1 hour the thing had dropped to 6.5 volts. I believe the alarm sounds at 5 volts. So I am guessing the battery will last about 3 hours. Maybe this is normal for internal packs. I dont know I always used store bought batteries.

Overall I am very satisfied with it so far. We will see how it performs in competition tomorrow."thumbsup"



The pack voltage seems to drop off the peak voltage fairly quick but seems to slow after that. I probably get at least 4 hours out of mine. You can get the Trinity upgrade pack which will extend the runtime and make the radio about 6 grams lighter.

I am working on a Lipo pack mod right now too "thumbsup"
 
Okay guys, got it all wired up and using Harley's latest setup. Worked good before hooking it up. After wiring ) all the electronics, the front motor does not turn as early as the rear motor. Here is the set up.

2 FXR's (same programming on each)
2 HH 35T motors
CC BEC plugged into channel 2
13 gauge wire all around
3 cell 2500 mAh lipo

I put the battery connection at the half way point between the two speedos.

To correct the difference, I ended up sub trimming the front and rear and now it seems okay. Should I have to do this or do I have something a little out of whack?

Can't wait to get some trigger time in.

Oh yeah, how do I get the dials so they can never be negative? Right now if you roll them too far back, front wheels go forward and rear wheels go backwards....hate to have that happen in the heat of battle....lol.

Couple things that you should keep in mind, motors will almost never be the same, there are manufacturing differences which make the performance of every motor "unique". Also, the gearcase on your axles could be tighter in the front than the rear, and vice versa (they were on my axles). Lastly, you set the gear mesh, there is the possibility that one is tighter than the other. In the case of small pinions, the gear mesh quality is worse the smaller the gears for any given pitch.

Given all of that, I almost never have a 1:1 front to rear drive ratio. I do run 1 less tooth on the rear pinion than in the front, but even so, I have less than awsome motors and I am sure that makes a difference, in fact, I run different brush springs on the front and rear motors.

I too have my battery leads equidistant from the speed controls. My opinion on wire size is that theoretically, a longer wire will have higher resistance than a smaller one, but as far as the motors are concerned, the difference in resistance of the front and rear motor wires is negligable, however I am super picky, and I do it equal, sometimes, if I'm not lazy ;-)

When I program my speedos, I have everything hooked up, I just turn off a mix and program the the other speedo, rinse and repeat. Havn't had a problem. I'll be in Omaha on Friday, PM me for my cell and we can get together if you are still having issues.
 
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