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4PK Setups, Tips, Tricks and Help

ok harley you talked me into a 4pk, got set it up and love it. Sensor is in the closet as a back up, DX3r and the two 3100,s going on the market. My big question today is have you tried to bind the 4pk with the spectrum recievers?

I have not tried but I am 99% positive that they will not bind with them. I am glad we got you to pick the TX up. I hope it works for everything you are looking for. If you don't know or can't find a way how I am sure one of us can help out "thumbsup"
 
The pack voltage seems to drop off the peak voltage fairly quick but seems to slow after that. I probably get at least 4 hours out of mine. You can get the Trinity upgrade pack which will extend the runtime and make the radio about 6 grams lighter.

I am working on a Lipo pack mod right now too "thumbsup"

There are 3 volt Lithium based batteries on the market. They are not LiPo though.

I am able to run my MRC (stock batt) and my 2.2 (4 1300's) on a single radio charge. When I charge my radio, I know it is done when the pack gets slightly warm, you can feel it through the plastic. If it is not warm, it is not charged fully, remember, we are using Nimh again, pack voltage does not necessarily mean state of charge.

Assume for a minute that you are able to use 100% of the transmitter battery capacity, 1700mAh. Page 121 of your manual states that the current drain is 250mA or less. Ok, math time now.

1700mAh/250mA=6.8 hours

Like Harley said, the voltage drops from 7.2 ish fairly rapidly, it will stabilize and hold in the 6 volt range for a while.

Disclaimer: you will not get 6.8 hours, you can use roughly 80% of the pack capacity, and the backlight and contrast will most likely affect the current drain of the battery. Also if you use the radio in a "noisy" environment, the FASST technology will more than likely be working harder, increasing the current drain further.
 
I have a 2s 2000 pack that I will be setting up with a Castle BEC and a LVA. Just a fun little experiment. There is plenty of room in the bottom and it will be a nice weight savings.

I was thinking that you would use those components. Please make sure the you monitor the temperature of the BEC during initial testing, I would have for something bad to happen. Only reason I mention it, is not because of the current draw or the fact that the Castle BEC is a linear voltage regulator, but that you are putting them in a fully enclosed environment. If you really want to do something cool, we could get together, figure out exaclty what we need to accomplish, design a component(s), and I can run a thermal simulation. I can tell you, within a degree, what the battery compartment temperature will be.
 
I was thinking that you would use those components. Please make sure the you monitor the temperature of the BEC during initial testing, I would have for something bad to happen. Only reason I mention it, is not because of the current draw or the fact that the Castle BEC is a linear voltage regulator, but that you are putting them in a fully enclosed environment. If you really want to do something cool, we could get together, figure out exaclty what we need to accomplish, design a component(s), and I can run a thermal simulation. I can tell you, within a degree, what the battery compartment temperature will be.

Speed holes in the battery cover :lol: :shock:
 
I reset the speedos, reset my subtrims to 0 and reprogrammed the speedos for a second time and now they work fine. I will check my mesh in each axle before Omaha, but looking good so far.

Is it possible to change the value (negative I think) so that you can never have the rear tires going backwards when you are mixing channels 3/4?
 
I reset the speedos, reset my subtrims to 0 and reprogrammed the speedos for a second time and now they work fine. I will check my mesh in each axle before Omaha, but looking good so far.

Is it possible to change the value (negative I think) so that you can never have the rear tires going backwards when you are mixing channels 3/4?

I will look into the negative question. One thing I have found though is that I rarely ever go below 50% mix. Let me see what I can figure out.


^^^^5000th Post "thumbsup"
 
do your victory dance lol.... dx3r = garbage..... thanks to whoodie i have a sick a$$ radio... its all your fault!"thumbsup"

Just tell me you were running Spektrum before so I can do my little victory dance and sing "another on bites the dust" to myself in my head :lol:
 
I reset the speedos, reset my subtrims to 0 and reprogrammed the speedos for a second time and now they work fine. I will check my mesh in each axle before Omaha, but looking good so far.

Is it possible to change the value (negative I think) so that you can never have the rear tires going backwards when you are mixing channels 3/4?

I dunno about the negative either, similar to Harley, I never go below 60% mix. I don't use the wheels so it is easier for me to keep track of where I am at without looking at the screen.
 
I just bought some new mini clod axles and have a couple questions about the setup of my 3PK with the dual ESC setup.

1. is there any way to do an on the fly negative mix? (for spinning the rear wheels backwards while the fronts go forwards) this could be helpful when turning around in limited space.

2. Is there a way to use the dial on top of the radio (DL3) or a switch some where to control rear dig? I don't like the fact that the front wheels would turn while doing a rear dig. maybe it's doable without pulling the trigger?

Thanks
 
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