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Crawl's 2015 and beyond berg build

So the lesson for the day is: only promote the mt4 to people if they use a specific esc. Since I buy things in 2's ( thanks to having a RC loving wife), hitting buttons on the mt4 is going to feel a lot like hitting buttons on my 4pl. Only difference is I'll need to bum gas money home being 425$ short now. The only saving grace this radio could provide at this point is if the buttons are in a more comfortable position than the futaba. However at this point, I can't express enough how much of a bummer it is that the primary reason for the investment is quite possibly out of the question. I'd even be ok if I only had half of the range on the lever to work with. However in comp situations, with the quality of drivers in my club, I'm not so sure the best drivers would choose 1-2mm up or down compared to a button. Not complaining. Just disappointed. My castle escs are staying so my hope is simple. Try to find time to put wheels and tires on today and rip it around the house to see if the lever is plausible. Just say'n, bench test fail:)
 
Don't give up that easy bro. It was working fine like it should yesterday after setting it up. That is what makes things stranger. It has to just be something in the radio settings.
 
Thanks for being positive dude. I'm just bothered by your point. It really gave me everything I was looking for when we had that big batt hooked up for testing. All I did was toss my 450mah 3s on after putting 2 zip ties on and moving the crossbraces and it's quite different. I'm sure we will get it.
 
What process diff you go thru to calibrate ur esc's?
Like, one at a time, both at the same time?
If one at a time, did you only have one plugged in at a time or did you roll the lever into dig to calibrate the front motor and roll it into burn to calibrate the rear?
 
That reminds me of another possibility....... CC Micros seem to work better on the software version about 5 back. I don't remember the number right now but I can look it up on my laptop. Ask the Muslim if you want proof! Lol I fixed his glitches that way. I also had his radio in hand and did the calibration before I smashed them just to keep it all clean. Gremlins show up in the strangest places
 
Calibration was one at a time. Being new to the radio, I didn't perform the procedure. I'll ask Brian to chime in when time allows. I believe that there is some level of accuracy to variations in escs. If they didn't exist, we would all run the same thing. However if I pulled the MT rx for a futaba rx, I could get extremely gentile increments of proportionate control. That I can speak of from experience. If the technology in the 4pl that allows you to take proportional control as far as determining increments of your choosing is far more advanced than the mt4, than the radio simply won't get used. Even if it means reassigning buttons on the 4pl or whatever it takes. Control is everything and I'd rather forced to spend twice as much time practicing to be a " button pusher" than to own a radio that's got a great feature.....in theory. I still hold hope for the mt4.
 
Each micro was calibrated one at a time. Barry I believe you are referring to version 1.14 if memory serves me correctly. They were not hooked up to Castle link and thinking back, wish I would have. I feel the neutral bandwith can be narrowed up some gaining better low end control and possibly helping with the lever issue.
 
I'm pretty sure if you go into expo there is a field for the lever, but what I normally do is I will throw it all the way to full dig/burn, and then just roll the lever back to start adding in some proportional bias. Much easier than trying to roll in the propo from center. My theory being that you need to apply more pressure to get the lever off of the "center notch" and thereby pushing you past the minimal increment you want. By going to full dig/burn and rolling back, you don't have that notch to overcome. Seems like more work at first but once you get used to it, it becomes easy. And also, I always use the lever to achieve full dig/burn, I don't have it on a separate switch.. Less to think about.

And v1.24 is the bomb castle setup for msw
 
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Right on! Page 3 and my boss chimes in;). That's not a bad way to think about the lever Trav. I can see throwing the lever to fill lock and easing back toward center being easier. Thanks for chiming in.
 
Right on! Page 3 and my boss chimes in;). That's not a bad way to think about the lever Trav. I can see throwing the lever to fill lock and easing back toward center being easier. Thanks for chiming in.

I waited until page three cause it seemed like everything was under control.:mrgreen:
 
I waited until page three cause it seemed like everything was under control.:mrgreen:


Thanks T. It seams chill so far. I wound up using the measurements for the uppers that boosted gave me for the Mark. Chaotic was nice enough to make them a few months back. It's funny how I didn't like them for that chassis but for some reason, they are perfect for this build.
 
Thanks T. It seams chill so far. I wound up using the measurements for the uppers that boosted gave me for the Mark. Chaotic was nice enough to make them a few months back. It's funny how I didn't like them for that chassis but for some reason, they are perfect for this build.

Well, whatever the case, this thing is looking good mang, but that's a given:mrgreen:
 
So some photo less tech. I've decided that my starting knuckle weight will be 2.5oz per side. I'll tune from there. 5 oz total will be the lowest amount I've started from. I also picked up 70wt oil. 60wt with the new Ti shock shafts feels like scaling back to 30-40. I've been warned that temp change plays a roll in this game. 60wt just seems too soft right now. We will have to see what September in the New England states feels like.
 
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