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Kaetwo's Tekin FX-R Review...

This last saturday I had the same issue again. the braking fails. Gunnar saw it, and then shortly after it did this it stopped. my batteries were hot off the ...well, not "hot", but anyway, just charged up and fresh. fwd or rev. tekin, what's that about? I haven't touched the esc since my LHS reset it...
 
Your local hobby shop reset what? What software are you running? Do you know what was loaded into it? Have you performed a "Factory reset?" Where is your NW setting at? What radio are you using?
 
I'm using the Spektrum 2.0 as I don't have a dig. I believe Mike rest everything, then started back to setting we agreed on. he's got the latest download I believe too, either that or the beta from a month ago that was emailed out. i have the FXR so no nw setting, I don't have the TC on...
 
he's got the latest download I believe too, either that or the beta from a month ago that was emailed out. i have the FXR so no nw setting, I don't have the TC on...


If he has the latest download, then you can set the NW.

I would go back to mike and let him download the latest software from the Tekin webiste. Set the NW to max and recalibrate the radio again. Make sure the Punch control and current limit is off.
 
you mean make the nuetral wider? will this effect the trigger? that imfamous dead spot? Well, maybe having that is better then losing points for a failing dragbrake... 8-) thnx!
 
Usually any type of "failing" brake or no drag brake at all is a calibration issue. Either the radio you have has a nuetral that is wandering or the NW setting is way off. The latest software for the FXR cures the dead spot you all were reffering to. What that actually was a high minimum drive. We changed it with 030 and everyone so far had been happy.
 
I've read through this thread and honestly it's what sold me on this ESC. In fact I bought two. One for my SCX10 and one from my AX10.

Kaetwo or anyone else who has honest experience with this unit. Below are what I changed my FXR settings too for my AX10. I am going to be running 3s lipo and figured this would be a good baseline.

After reading through Kaetwo's configuration I figured I'd start with those settings as a baseline and adjust from there. As weight, course conditions, etc are all variables.

One other question...do I live the current limit and push control off?

standard.jpg


I finally got out to do some real testing with my rig. I'm finding once I let off the throttle my drag brake isn't instant. I have to blip the throttle. Is this a setting on my DX3r or on my Tekin?

Thanks!
 
I finally got out to do some real testing with my rig. I'm finding once I let off the throttle my drag brake isn't instant. I have to blip the throttle. Is this a setting on my DX3r or on my Tekin?

Thanks!


That sounds like your neutral is not set right. Did you mess with the throttle trim any after you calibrated the esc to the radio?
 
I don't know for sure. Sorry for the ridiculous answer but the DX3r was my first venture into a real radio. When setting it up, it's quite possible I changed a setting. Where do I go to check my neutral setting or reset it back to defualt?
 
I don't know for sure. Sorry for the ridiculous answer but the DX3r was my first venture into a real radio. When setting it up, it's quite possible I changed a setting. Where do I go to check my neutral setting or reset it back to defualt?


Easiest solution reset and start over. I just went through all this with my dx3r and fxr. I was about to trash all of it I was getting so pissed. But once I reset the fxr and dx3r and followed all the directions to the T, everything works great now!!! Good luck! P.S. if you dont feel like reseting it all, just try and recalibrate the fxr with the dx3r, takes a min and might work.
 
I don't know for sure. Sorry for the ridiculous answer but the DX3r was my first venture into a real radio. When setting it up, it's quite possible I changed a setting. Where do I go to check my neutral setting or reset it back to defualt?


Neutral width is in the new program so you will need to have a hotwire. "thumbsup"
 
Neutral width is the free trigger motion between reverse and neutral and neutral and forward.
I set mine at 50% and works fine.
I originally set it at minimum and had no brakes in one direction, trimmed the throttle to correct it and had no brakes in the other direction.

The new 030 firmware is the sh1t, Tekin did it right.
There is one weird issue though.
After updating the firmware it's suggested to recalibrate the radio. If you do not recalibrate the car will run fine, until you unplug the battery or turn off the ESC.
Then recalibrating as the instructions say doesn't get the ESC in the right mode.
What I found works is;
Off switch the ESC
Press and hold the mode button while turning on the ESC switch.
(this forces the ESC into Recal mode, be sure reverse is normal and EPAs are 100% )
Then recalibrate as per instructions.

It may take a few extra seconds for the ESC to arm, then it's back to normal, except for a way better control of crawlability.
 
Good info Doug. "thumbsup"

I need to get myself a hotwire and get mine updated.

Have you played with the different forward and reverse drag brakes at all?
 
Good info Doug. "thumbsup"

I need to get myself a hotwire and get mine updated.

Have you played with the different forward and reverse drag brakes at all?

I haven't tried different curve settings, but I did use the mild curve in both forward and brake. You'll never see the curve while driving. Acceleration does not ramp up slowly to full speed, it works as if it's linear. But I did do this to help the break-away speed (the speed at which the car starts moving from neutral). The break-away speed is absolutely awesome. As you slowly pull the trigger you can hear the ESC clicking trying to move the car. If your very precise with the trigger as you pull it more you can see the car starting to move with the clicking noise.
This is with my 45t motors.
The break-away speed with 35t motors was terrible before the 030 firmware. As you slowly pulled the trigger the car would lurch forward at about 1 foot for 2 seconds, then you could back down the throttle from there. I could not compromise that for comps and the 45t motors were a happy quick fix.
I'm ready to try the 35t motors again with the new 030 FW.
 
I'll start off saying I've used Tekin for years and were glad to see them back up and running, loved the bc112c chargers, still have two.

That being said...finally got around to hooking up my fx-r. Went step by step(installed 30+ over 18 years) powerd it up and all went well...had steering and gave a little squeeze and it moved the truck...then shut it down to program it with the hot wire to the 3.0 update off the tekin site.

Finished the download, reset volage cutoff to 2(running 2s lipo) and everything else where I thought a good start point would be.

Plugged the battery in, radio on, fliped the on/off switch and the fxr came to life with it's chimes...pushed the program button all led's blinked 3x's and chimed 3x's, 4th led lit up as it should..then a chime..followed by a BIG puff of smoke :-( not a happy camper.

Have a comp on sunday and looks like I'm S.O.L now.
Calling tekin as I type...will post thier conclusion...
 
Called tekin tech support and they were GREAT!"thumbsup" I will be up and going before the comp on sunday!

They were not sure what the issue was...possible in the mode button...when it was pressed something went to ground...since the mode button was never used during the intial power up.
 
sounds like I am going to have to get an fxr and put the big snake in something other than my crawler"thumbsup"
 
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