New : Losi mx bike

[Timmahh]

Most 'breakage' has been what they call the crash plate, aka the Front Radiator, or where the radiator would be on a 1:1. I can see why as noted with the 6ft plus high jumps and landing on flats.
Landing Jumps on the flat is the worst and easiest way to eat handlebar breakfasts in 1:1 and leads to hundreds of bent rims. So breaking the crash plate isn't tooo bad. But some are getting bent spokes and that means bent rims sooner than later. Other than that, Jersy tearups on derfs and endos. Rear wheel wear on pavement but it's a knobby for crying out loud.

One thing is for sure. ITS BIG. I mean Pretty Damn Big.
I figured it was close to my Duratrax DX450 though it is 1/5th scale, considering most these bikes are pretty much the same size, but nope, the Pro Moto is a fair bit larger than the DX450 as seen in the pics.
No running yet. Waiting for the SMART charger to show up as I dont have anything with an IC5, but the 2 new SMART 5000s but no way to charge them. Was told a regular charger would work, but I dont see how unless they come with some adapter for charging on a non SMART Charger. Not sure how they would be balanced with no balance port attached.

At any rate, Got an adapter made up so I can run my ProMatch 130c Shorty Drag packs which has bullet connetors on it. So I can use these 2 packs while I wait for the charger to show up. Besides, My dumbass messed up and ordered the 2s SMARTs with the IC3 (DOH) instead of the IC5 the bike uses, so I need to solder an IC5 on each of those batteries before I can use them.

Gonna try to get a lil running tomorrow while at work, but things may be a bit funky tomorrow so we'll see.

 

[Shinook]

Yea, I started to comment more on the 1:1 thing. I don't have any experience with moto but a lot with mtb and hucks to flat will straight up break everything. One manufacturer at one point explicitly listed that as a reason for not warrantying frames if it was determined you were sending it to flat repeatedly. I think expectations on durability for some of these jumps are a little too high.

I drove mine today on smoother terrain to get a better feel for it without the variability of the rougher area I was on the other day.

Braking is still garbage. I figured they might need to bed in or something, but no, it's straight up not stopping even with the adjusters all over the place. You gotta be careful who is around when you drive it as a result, because it takes at least 6-8 feet to come to a stop if not more from full speed. I get they are trying to keep it upright but I think it should have more power esp given there is adjustment on the brake range, not being able to slam the brake and stop it is kindof scary.

I found one interesting bit out driving it that helped me kinda realize what it was doing some of the time: you don't control the servo and steering directly like you do most other RCs, the gyro does, you just direct the steering. MOST of the time when you try turning it, it'll turn like you expect, but there are times when the gyro decides "no" and does what it needs to keep it level or dials back the turn. This is mainly at lower speeds or when it has tipped over, it's subtle but it is there at times and I think it's part of the reason it's a little more disorienting to drive. It's not a direct turn on the transmitter to the servo, the gyro seems to decide, almost like if you have a vehicle with receiver stability built in, except much more extreme.

It does have a minimum speed where it gets pretty squirrelly but it's slower than you think it would be and holds itself upright much easier than I thought it would at slow speeds. I was starting to get the hang of it more after running some figure 8s and some cones, but it def takes practice and you gotta manage the throttle. If you learn to back it off a little before turning, you can drive it in tighter spaces, but again small yards or grass, it's not gonna turn great and you'll be chasing after it flipping over.

After a while, I think you start to get a feel for it and when it's about to tip over, you can blip the throttle to keep it upright, but it's difficult to drive precisely without some practice.

The throttle is also, in part, controlled by the computer also. I noticed a few times it started to punch, then dialed back, then let loose again to keep the front wheel down.

Still great to drive. I wish it needed less room, because having a small yard just makes it tricky to do anything other than a few small figure 8s. I gotta find somewhere with more loose dirt or gravel.

 

[BP6666VR]

Brake sticking on this bike = FIX

https://youtu.be/SeaASLymXBI



Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

 

[Timmahh]

I was going to mention Earls vid also.
Short answer on front brake, take the caliper off, and remove the threaded pressure pistion that applies the pads, then clean up the mold lines on the screw threads and get the threads smooth. the pistn seems to be hanging up on the mold lines causing it to stick. It has one torsion spring on it>
One of the Fakebookers installed a shortened pen spring at the lever on the caliper to push the lever back down which is an old-school mod in rc.
Not had a chance to take mine for a ride yet. Too busy adn then rain on the days I planned to. lol
Hopefully this weekend.

 

[BP6666VR]

I was going to mention Earls vid also.
Short answer on front brake, take the caliper off, and remove the threaded pressure pistion that applies the pads, then clean up the mold lines on the screw threads and get the threads smooth. the pistn seems to be hanging up on the mold lines causing it to stick. It has one torsion spring on it>
One of the Fakebookers installed a shortened pen spring at the lever on the caliper to push the lever back down which is an old-school mod in rc.
Not had a chance to take mine for a ride yet. Too busy adn then rain on the days I planned to. lol
Hopefully this weekend.

That return spring would be a fun mod, if grass or mud get into the brake that spring would help ....

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

 

[Timmahh]

That return spring would be a fun mod, if grass or mud get into the brake that spring would help ....

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

There is a torsion spring on the lever to push it down, but its not very strong I'm guessing due to size, but enough if its not gummed up.
But ya, a spring mod would help keep that down, but will add some stress to the brake servo and maybe become a stopper and not allow it to close enough depending on how long it is when collapsed.