Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
All tickets sent out today. Thanks for the support!!!!!
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Rock candy raffle crawler build thread
- Thread starter Holy Roller
- Start date
sococrawler
Relaxed !
hey guy's an update we are still working on the issue at hand and have a way around! we will post full details soon,keep on keepin on with the support!"thumbsup"
SoCo Crawlgirl
Rock Crawler
we are coming very close to a solution, i should be posting it this weekend.thank you all for all the support and the great ideas! with out all of our supporters we would have nothing so THANK YOU!!!!!!! "thumbsup"just be patient and i will keep all of you updated, especially the ones who have already purchased tickets.:mrgreen:
Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
The CONTRA BAND motors from Rock Hard showed up today. Rock Hard generously donated two of his custom built 45T Hand Wound Contra Band Motors. A great Crawler can not be without great motors and that is what he has donated to the build. Thanks Rock Hard!!!!!!!
Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
Axial Buttery Smooth Shocks Build Up
I thought I would get the shocks built, so when I get the front axle modified and assembled I could get a rolling chassis put together.
I followed most of Benders build up write up. I had to deviate from some of the assembly recommendations because I am using JeepinDoug's C-Cups. Jeepin Doug's C-Cups allow the springs to turn on the shocks and stay mounted on the spring retainer cups without the possibility of loosing a retainer cup. With everyone wanting maximum steering out of their crawler most people have their end points set on their steering to the point where the tires contact the springs. This is a great product and they work well.
I followed the pointers that Bender layed out for assembling Asials comp shocks for optimum performance. If you follow these simple instructions the build up is fairly easy. There are alot of small details in the build up that if you pay attention too will make a huge difference in how they perform. Like Bender says "Nothing is more annoying then rebuilding a set of shocks only to see they've started leaking after a couple of runs."
Here is a complete shock kits that contains all the parts to assemble two shocks.
The first step in the assembly of the shocks is to assemble the shock cartridges. I layed out the parts that are needed for this portion of the build in the order of assembly.
I started the assembly by lubing the rubber o-rings with an o-ring lubricant called Sil-Glyde. What this does is help eliminate the chance to cut or tear the o-rings during the assembly of the shock shaft into the cartridge. Grease can also be used in place of the o-ring assembly lubrication.
I put some of the o-ring lubrication on my finger tip and covered the o-ring thoroughly by rubbing it between your fingers.
I then installed the first lubricated o-ring into the cartridge body.
Next I installed the plastic spacer on top of the first o-ring and pressed it down until it stoped.
I thought I would get the shocks built, so when I get the front axle modified and assembled I could get a rolling chassis put together.
I followed most of Benders build up write up. I had to deviate from some of the assembly recommendations because I am using JeepinDoug's C-Cups. Jeepin Doug's C-Cups allow the springs to turn on the shocks and stay mounted on the spring retainer cups without the possibility of loosing a retainer cup. With everyone wanting maximum steering out of their crawler most people have their end points set on their steering to the point where the tires contact the springs. This is a great product and they work well.
I followed the pointers that Bender layed out for assembling Asials comp shocks for optimum performance. If you follow these simple instructions the build up is fairly easy. There are alot of small details in the build up that if you pay attention too will make a huge difference in how they perform. Like Bender says "Nothing is more annoying then rebuilding a set of shocks only to see they've started leaking after a couple of runs."
Here is a complete shock kits that contains all the parts to assemble two shocks.
The first step in the assembly of the shocks is to assemble the shock cartridges. I layed out the parts that are needed for this portion of the build in the order of assembly.
I started the assembly by lubing the rubber o-rings with an o-ring lubricant called Sil-Glyde. What this does is help eliminate the chance to cut or tear the o-rings during the assembly of the shock shaft into the cartridge. Grease can also be used in place of the o-ring assembly lubrication.
I put some of the o-ring lubrication on my finger tip and covered the o-ring thoroughly by rubbing it between your fingers.
I then installed the first lubricated o-ring into the cartridge body.
Next I installed the plastic spacer on top of the first o-ring and pressed it down until it stoped.
Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
Next, I lubed the second o-ring and installed it on top of the plastic spacer.
I then installed the top cap by snapping it onto the cartridge body.
Next, I installed the shock cartridge sealing o-ring onto the base of the shock cartridge.
You will now want to slide the shock shaft into the cartridge from the bottom, or left to right as the pictures indicate. If you slide the shock shaft in the opposite way, you run the risk of tearing or cutting the o-rings inside the cartridge with the M3 threads for the lower rod end. Since the shock piston is held in place with the smaller M2.5 Nylock nut the threads are less likely to touch the o-rings when you install the shock shaft. Wipe off any excess lube/grease that is on the top of the shock shaft after sliding it into the cartridge.
I then installed the top cap by snapping it onto the cartridge body.
Next, I installed the shock cartridge sealing o-ring onto the base of the shock cartridge.
You will now want to slide the shock shaft into the cartridge from the bottom, or left to right as the pictures indicate. If you slide the shock shaft in the opposite way, you run the risk of tearing or cutting the o-rings inside the cartridge with the M3 threads for the lower rod end. Since the shock piston is held in place with the smaller M2.5 Nylock nut the threads are less likely to touch the o-rings when you install the shock shaft. Wipe off any excess lube/grease that is on the top of the shock shaft after sliding it into the cartridge.
Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
The next step of the shock build up is installing the shock piston.
This is where I believe that Axial steps it up and provides you with one of the most adjustable shocks on the market. In the shock kit Axial provides you with 3 different standard pistons offering different dampening levels from Soft to Firm. Axial also provides Variable Rate Pistons in the kit. The variable rate pistons allows you to have a faster rebound/slower compression or a slower rebound/faster compression choice.
I decided to install the Soft Dampening pistons.
I have laid out the parts in the picture below, in the order the parts are assembled.
I installed one flat washer onto the shock shaft, then slide the piston on next, followed by the second flat washer. I then used needle nose pliers to hold the lower portion of the shock shaft on the flats. I then threaded the M2.5 Nylock nut onto the threaded portion at the top of the shock shaft and tightened the nut down. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE NUT) Tighten the nut until it just stops.
This is where the build up differs from Benders Axial build up. Because I am using JeepinDougs C-cups, the installation of the springs, spring retainer, and the rod end will be installed at a later time in the build.
I moved forward to the threaded aluminum shock body build up.
Once again I have laid out the parts to show you the order the parts for this portion of the build are put together.
The first thing I did was to install the o-ring into the threaded pre-load collar.
Next I installed the threaded pre-load collar with the o-ring installed onto the threaded aluminum shock body. Make you install the threaded pre-load collar onto the threaded aluminum shock body with the flange facing the unthread portion of the aluminum shock body.
You will want to thread the threaded pre-load collar about half way down the shock body.
Next is to install the shock bladder into the shock caps. You will need to find something soft to work the bladder into the shock cap. You do not want to damage the bladder. I followed Benders lead and used a plastic pen cap.
Now it's time to thread the cap on to the shock body. Tighten down the cap as tight as you can with your fingers. Do not use pliers or a wrench. If you do you will increase the chances of unseating the bladder which will cause the shocks to leak. I perfer bleeding the shocks when I install the shock cartridge assemby into the shock body. That is the way I learned to do it in the past, but you can bleed them through the cap if you perfer that method.
This is where I believe that Axial steps it up and provides you with one of the most adjustable shocks on the market. In the shock kit Axial provides you with 3 different standard pistons offering different dampening levels from Soft to Firm. Axial also provides Variable Rate Pistons in the kit. The variable rate pistons allows you to have a faster rebound/slower compression or a slower rebound/faster compression choice.
I decided to install the Soft Dampening pistons.
I have laid out the parts in the picture below, in the order the parts are assembled.
I installed one flat washer onto the shock shaft, then slide the piston on next, followed by the second flat washer. I then used needle nose pliers to hold the lower portion of the shock shaft on the flats. I then threaded the M2.5 Nylock nut onto the threaded portion at the top of the shock shaft and tightened the nut down. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE NUT) Tighten the nut until it just stops.
This is where the build up differs from Benders Axial build up. Because I am using JeepinDougs C-cups, the installation of the springs, spring retainer, and the rod end will be installed at a later time in the build.
I moved forward to the threaded aluminum shock body build up.
Once again I have laid out the parts to show you the order the parts for this portion of the build are put together.
The first thing I did was to install the o-ring into the threaded pre-load collar.
Next I installed the threaded pre-load collar with the o-ring installed onto the threaded aluminum shock body. Make you install the threaded pre-load collar onto the threaded aluminum shock body with the flange facing the unthread portion of the aluminum shock body.
You will want to thread the threaded pre-load collar about half way down the shock body.
Next is to install the shock bladder into the shock caps. You will need to find something soft to work the bladder into the shock cap. You do not want to damage the bladder. I followed Benders lead and used a plastic pen cap.
Now it's time to thread the cap on to the shock body. Tighten down the cap as tight as you can with your fingers. Do not use pliers or a wrench. If you do you will increase the chances of unseating the bladder which will cause the shocks to leak. I perfer bleeding the shocks when I install the shock cartridge assemby into the shock body. That is the way I learned to do it in the past, but you can bleed them through the cap if you perfer that method.
JeremyH
I wanna be Dave
Looking good! I cant wait to drive this thing..."thumbsup"
Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
Next I filled the shock body with oil and bleed it. You will want to make sure you let the air bubbles in the oil rise and dissipate before you bleed the shock.
I wrapped the shock body with a paper towel, so when I bleed the shock the oil that seeps out does not run down the sides of the shock body.
I filled the shock body with oil till it reaches the thread on the inside of the shock body.
You will want to pull the shock shaft till the shock piston bottoms out on the shock cartridge.
I then threaded the shock cartridge into the shock body, but only a couple turns at this time.
Now I compressed the shock shaft slowly until the bump stop bottoms out on the cartridge. The excessive oil will flow out the gaps. Once the shock shaft is bottomed out, thread the cartridge into the shock body with your fingers and tighten it up by hand. Make sure the shock shaft stays fully compressed as you thread the shock cartridge into place. At this time I remove the paper towel and wipe down the excess oil. At this point I used a wrench to tighten the shock cartridge down the rest of teh way. It is very important that you do not let the shock cycle before you get the shock cartridge tightened down, you may get air in the shock body and you will have to start the process over again.
Thanks to JeepinDoug we have some of the most trick additions you can add to your comp shocks, C-cups. The C-cups allow you to thread your springs onto the spring retainers/C-cups. What is cool about JeepinDougs is that they are installed prior to install the rod ends. The C-cups allow the springs to turn on the shock with the C-cup. There is also no chance of one being knocked off while crawling because the tire rubs against the shocks or the spring retainer.
Again, here is a picture of the order the spring, shock bottoming dampener, C-cup and rod end are installed.
The first thing I installed was the dampener onto the shock shaft. Make sure you install it tapper side up. I pushed it about half way up the shock shaft to allow for room when installing the C-cup, spring, and rod end.
The next thing is to thread the spring onto the C-cup.
I wrapped the shock body with a paper towel, so when I bleed the shock the oil that seeps out does not run down the sides of the shock body.
I filled the shock body with oil till it reaches the thread on the inside of the shock body.
You will want to pull the shock shaft till the shock piston bottoms out on the shock cartridge.
I then threaded the shock cartridge into the shock body, but only a couple turns at this time.
Now I compressed the shock shaft slowly until the bump stop bottoms out on the cartridge. The excessive oil will flow out the gaps. Once the shock shaft is bottomed out, thread the cartridge into the shock body with your fingers and tighten it up by hand. Make sure the shock shaft stays fully compressed as you thread the shock cartridge into place. At this time I remove the paper towel and wipe down the excess oil. At this point I used a wrench to tighten the shock cartridge down the rest of teh way. It is very important that you do not let the shock cycle before you get the shock cartridge tightened down, you may get air in the shock body and you will have to start the process over again.
Thanks to JeepinDoug we have some of the most trick additions you can add to your comp shocks, C-cups. The C-cups allow you to thread your springs onto the spring retainers/C-cups. What is cool about JeepinDougs is that they are installed prior to install the rod ends. The C-cups allow the springs to turn on the shock with the C-cup. There is also no chance of one being knocked off while crawling because the tire rubs against the shocks or the spring retainer.
Again, here is a picture of the order the spring, shock bottoming dampener, C-cup and rod end are installed.
The first thing I installed was the dampener onto the shock shaft. Make sure you install it tapper side up. I pushed it about half way up the shock shaft to allow for room when installing the C-cup, spring, and rod end.
The next thing is to thread the spring onto the C-cup.
The Cow
Rock Crawler
Becky,
Awesome job my friend! As a build alone this thread kicks ass "thumbsup"
Heath
Awesome job my friend! As a build alone this thread kicks ass "thumbsup"
Heath
Holy Roller
Axial Team Driver
Now I am ready to install the spring/C-cup assembly onto the shock and hold it together with the rod end.
Axial goes the extra mile with other items that provided additional adjustment. They provide you with three different length rod ends, in the kit, for the shocks.
Place the shock/C-cup assembly over the shaft and shock body. Make sure the threaded portion of the shaft goes through the hole in the c-cup. Then screw on the rod end that you choose for your shock build up. I chose the shortest rod ends for this build.
Next install the rubber bushing that is provided in the kit into the shock cap.
The last thing I did was press in the metal rod end metal ball into the rod end.
Now I just repeated this process on the other three shocks.
Thanks again AXIAL for the Comp Shocks donation. Definately one of the best shocks you can buy and definately one of the most out of the package adjustable shock kit you can buy."thumbsup"
Axial goes the extra mile with other items that provided additional adjustment. They provide you with three different length rod ends, in the kit, for the shocks.
Place the shock/C-cup assembly over the shaft and shock body. Make sure the threaded portion of the shaft goes through the hole in the c-cup. Then screw on the rod end that you choose for your shock build up. I chose the shortest rod ends for this build.
Next install the rubber bushing that is provided in the kit into the shock cap.
The last thing I did was press in the metal rod end metal ball into the rod end.
Now I just repeated this process on the other three shocks.
Thanks again AXIAL for the Comp Shocks donation. Definately one of the best shocks you can buy and definately one of the most out of the package adjustable shock kit you can buy."thumbsup"
The CONTRA BAND motors from Rock Hard showed up today. Rock Hard generously donated two of his custom built 45T Hand Wound Contra Band Motors. A great Crawler can not be without great motors and that is what he has donated to the build. Thanks Rock Hard!!!!!!!
Where would you find these motors?
Cruzin Illusion
Keep Crawling in Crawling
I would contact Rock Hard on this site. He should be able to give more information about them. I know this was a special set he had made up to make sure Becky had them for the build in time. Hope this helps.
sococrawler
Relaxed !
these motors look frickin redoncoulous! hope they perform well!
rock hard
dnf
sococrawler
Relaxed !
Hey guy's i wanna give a hand to all of the rockcandy girls, without all of their efforts and visions none of this would be possible!
so to all the girls of Rockcandyrcc i raise my glass, or can and salute you girls for standing tall in a male dominated arena!
remember, you guy's are a "team" and teams are well oiled machines when all the gears are workin together!
Randy
so to all the girls of Rockcandyrcc i raise my glass, or can and salute you girls for standing tall in a male dominated arena!
remember, you guy's are a "team" and teams are well oiled machines when all the gears are workin together!
Randy
SoCo Crawlgirl
Rock Crawler
:ror:Hey guys thanks to all who have purchased STICKERS! 50% of all sales will help RockCandy start our award programs and 50% will be going to breast cancer research! they will be sent out at the end of this week to all who PRE PURCHASED them! and don't foreget all of our supporters will be entered into the RockCandy RCC Crawler Give Away!!!!!!!:ror: So If you are looking to purchase stickers or be entered into the crawler give away pm Holy Roller, Del Montess, or me, SoCo Crawlgirl , to get more info, or look for us at the Axial West Coast Championships where we will be building the crawler, or at a comp, for stickers or info!!!!:ror::ror::ror: And remember you have till sept to purchase stickers and the crawler give away will be at the Nationals Sept 11th!!!
PS Thanks for all the support all the girls were given at the AZ Shoot Out in Prescott this week end! I meet quite a few who have already purchased STICKERS, thank you!!!!!!
PS Thanks for all the support all the girls were given at the AZ Shoot Out in Prescott this week end! I meet quite a few who have already purchased STICKERS, thank you!!!!!!
SoCo Crawlgirl
Rock Crawler
18 days till AWCC!!!!!"thumbsup"
