oh, and if i get a CMS with a pan hard bar, will that be ok for 4 link, and i asked before about a 'y shaped' rod end to convert the front 4 link to 3 link, is this possible? anyway I'm going to bed, ill do something about it all in the morning.
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Steering Improvements
- Thread starter Hammer!
- Start date
6sharky9
RCC Addict
its already morning here and im going to bed too..lol
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
Ok..my cms is shown here...at full flex the tire just touches the shock...no big deal as it usually wont get stuffed up that far in real world running.
My linkage is shown as well as the cms orientation..absolutely no bump steer and it turns as far as possible both ways evenly....you need to ditch the 4 link if you keep the cms...the rc4wd kit comes with all the hardware to make the 3 link set up
My linkage is shown as well as the cms orientation..absolutely no bump steer and it turns as far as possible both ways evenly....you need to ditch the 4 link if you keep the cms...the rc4wd kit comes with all the hardware to make the 3 link set up
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allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
Sorry for the triple pic of the tire rub..i will fix it when i get home..i posted from my phone...
decided to not go to bed yet lol, last post for tonight though. if i get this CMS, with the 3 link, that kind of just takes away one link, unlike the stock scx10 one witch has a Y shaped one. will this still give the same performance and flex? and in the pictures it shows a replacement link, can i still use the one i have? (vanquish titanium link) Chassis Mounted Steering Servo Kit with Panhard Bar for Axial SCX10, last question, what does a panhard really do?
Johnnysplits
I wanna be Dave
The panhard bar keeps the axle centered within the chassis.
You don't need a new CMS - make what you have work to the best of its ability.....
If the tire is barely touching the shock at full bump: add a small smaller inside the shock to limit it. You don't need tons of flex.
What rims? Use a wider hub or hex. Quick and easy is Traxxas makes a slightly longer than axial hex.
A panhard bar keeps the axle movement in the proper alignment.
Because you are playing with a toy car and not the real deal you can get away with all kinds of things, but your looking for a proper set up so do it right....
CMS - 3link with a panhard.
Panhard and servo to axle link need to be the same length.
From the photos your servo horn looks to be having back?
Making your servo to axle link look wonky...
If the tire is barely touching the shock at full bump: add a small smaller inside the shock to limit it. You don't need tons of flex.
What rims? Use a wider hub or hex. Quick and easy is Traxxas makes a slightly longer than axial hex.
A panhard bar keeps the axle movement in the proper alignment.
Because you are playing with a toy car and not the real deal you can get away with all kinds of things, but your looking for a proper set up so do it right....
CMS - 3link with a panhard.
Panhard and servo to axle link need to be the same length.
From the photos your servo horn looks to be having back?
Making your servo to axle link look wonky...
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
the vanquish cms is more difficult to get working correctly than the rc4wd, you can use your vp one if you like, but make the panhard as close to parallel to the steering link as possible, the length doesnt matter, mine are not the same length but they are parallel to each other...
Don't say length doesn't matter - it does.
Unless he is running all the exact same parts in the exact same way - he won't get the same set up as you.
Links parallel, same length, servo horn correctly positioned to do its job - with true 3link not a triangulated 4link.
Unless he is running all the exact same parts in the exact same way - he won't get the same set up as you.
Links parallel, same length, servo horn correctly positioned to do its job - with true 3link not a triangulated 4link.
What your looking at there is NORMAL. I sometimes forget I have custom front shock towers (2 pieces of 16g steel). But I looked at my son's completely stock honcho. You should be able to get a little more by moving your shock forward one hole in the shocktower. Other than that. what your looking at isn't caused by cms, isn't caused by 3 link or 4 link.. It is only caused by the geometry of your tire and your shock which will remain no matter how you mount your steering and how many links you have.
Your choices are pretty much get a thinner shock, thinner tire, wider axle or totally custom shock mount. But honestly I don't think it matters because you don't make that many tight turns while fully flexed like that. generally you might start a turn like that but then you will unflex as you either go up or down whatever object your on.
Unless your 4 link is giving you problems I wouldn't switch to 3 link.. do whatever you want to your steering, or nothing.. and then if you feel that your having problems with your suspension moving your steering for you worry about whether to stay with 4 link or 3 link. But with either 3 or 4 link make sure everything has no slop.
what I would do if I were you..
put on rear ud gear
get a slightly longer steering link so your tires toe out a little
switch to cvd and high steer knuckles with clockable chubs
I would do things in that order and not necessarily all at once.. depending on what your using your truck for you may decide not to do all three steps.. keep in mind were talking about going from approx. a 4ft diameter circle to a 3 ft diameter circle.. so unless you competing it may not really make all that much difference to you.
Oh it did just occur to me clocking your c-hubs back might give you a tiny bit more room at full flex for steering.
panhard and 4 link work at cross purposes.. if used together they will bind your suspension.. at least in theory.
jdmguy760
Rock Crawler
4 link and panhard is super hard to get to work right I've seen very few do it and have it perform
6sharky9
RCC Addict
If I paid what he did for his kit and it didn't fit or work properly I would send it right back in a heartbeat and move on.
If its just a simple servo adjustment back or forth to line things up then I can see where some may make mistakes. or have an issue..but why would you need to get longer links..shorter links etc for something that is supposed to be a bolt on replacement kit ?..pretty sad if that's the case especially from well known name brand companies.
OP..hopefully you can get if figured out and working for you...I suppose you want the scale look on the front and youre entitled to have that....if its for any reason other than that ,your causing your own headaches here in my opinion..lol
As far as improved steering; once you have the all so common CMS issues figured out, let me know and ill give you a hand with some improved steering costing you less than $25.00 to achieve using the stock c hubs and knuckles with no ill effects ,if interested....if you want more then you have other options you can look to with high steer knuckles and clockable c hubs,,just make sure you have a quality servo and axles...if you want more than that then look into the XR mod.
Best of luck to you.
If its just a simple servo adjustment back or forth to line things up then I can see where some may make mistakes. or have an issue..but why would you need to get longer links..shorter links etc for something that is supposed to be a bolt on replacement kit ?..pretty sad if that's the case especially from well known name brand companies.
OP..hopefully you can get if figured out and working for you...I suppose you want the scale look on the front and youre entitled to have that....if its for any reason other than that ,your causing your own headaches here in my opinion..lol
As far as improved steering; once you have the all so common CMS issues figured out, let me know and ill give you a hand with some improved steering costing you less than $25.00 to achieve using the stock c hubs and knuckles with no ill effects ,if interested....if you want more then you have other options you can look to with high steer knuckles and clockable c hubs,,just make sure you have a quality servo and axles...if you want more than that then look into the XR mod.
Best of luck to you.
The OP isn't having a problem with his CMS.
I'll say this in as simple English as I can. His truck is normal.
Let me use pictures.. maybe they will help.
These are pictures of my son's fully STOCK honcho.
This is his truck at full flex with the shock mounted to the front hole in the shock tower as it comes stock.
first hole by https://www.flickr.com/people//, on Flickr
See how the tire almost touches the shock?
Now here it is once again at full flex with the shock mounted in the rear hole like the OP's
third hole by https://www.flickr.com/people//, on Flickr
See how the tire is touching the shock spring?
This is the "problem" that the OP is talking about.
Got it?
I'll say this in as simple English as I can. His truck is normal.
Let me use pictures.. maybe they will help.
These are pictures of my son's fully STOCK honcho.
This is his truck at full flex with the shock mounted to the front hole in the shock tower as it comes stock.
first hole by https://www.flickr.com/people//, on FlickrSee how the tire almost touches the shock?
Now here it is once again at full flex with the shock mounted in the rear hole like the OP's
third hole by https://www.flickr.com/people//, on FlickrSee how the tire is touching the shock spring?
This is the "problem" that the OP is talking about.
Got it?
Trail Blazer
Pebble Pounder
Need to move how shockies mounted to combat that, or as said before wider wheel base
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
Length does not matter...a 1:1 jeep has a track bar(panhard) that is not the same length as a the connecting tie rods...the steering gear box is mounted the same way on the left frame...length doesnt mean crap...being parallel does when you are using a servo...
...if length made the difference...why is mine working with no issues...
That's kind of like asking if 4 link is so horrible why is mine working with no issues? :lmao:
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
Trail Blazer
Pebble Pounder
Hey allanon, just looking at your pic, so when your left side is completely compressed you don't get an issue with the two steering links or servo horn? Touching or bumping I mean? Just a thought I had, 
Better question is why are comparing a non triangulated 4link with panhard bar on a 1:1 to an RC?
And no one said Jeep design their suspension correctly either. But they are suppose to be the same length for a reason, but I have no reason to argue vs trying to help.
Sooner or later you'll ask a question on here - when you get jack ass answers you know why.
