juswin24
Quarry Creeper
I'm taking a stock Tamiya Hummer and will be replacing the plastic tub with an Aluminum chassis pan. Doing so will add about 1" more ground clearance.
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Tamiya Hummer with aluminum chassis
- Thread starter juswin24
- Start date
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
You can see in this picture the tires I'm going to use will not have much clearance from body. The tire pictured is 1.9 Flat Iron.
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
I didn't take a measurement, but you can the chassis is just about the same height as the axle nut. If I leave stock tires on it will tuck chassis up and under the body.
BubbaEinstein
Quarry Creeper
Looking forward to this one
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Looking forward to this one
Not sure where this build is going to lead me. Thanks for watching too! 8)
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
I have one of those Hummers somewhere here in a box of pieces... I locked the diffs, but couldn't get over the low ground clearance, and kept stripping spurs with hamfisted throttle techniques.
Always though about adapting traxxas stampede shafts to the front and rear diffs where the wire prop shaft goes. This would allow a center mounted trans for lower gears, and to get away from the metric Tamiya pinions. Trans would probably sit right ontop of custom plate chassis... But alas, those are just dreams.
I look forward to whatever you concoct.
Always though about adapting traxxas stampede shafts to the front and rear diffs where the wire prop shaft goes. This would allow a center mounted trans for lower gears, and to get away from the metric Tamiya pinions. Trans would probably sit right ontop of custom plate chassis... But alas, those are just dreams.
I look forward to whatever you concoct.
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
The front and rear diff's are different when it comes to locking. The rear diff I locked by making paper washers out of card stock and then crank down all the way on the screw nut. The front diff, I took apart and took one of the small bevel gears off the shaft and reassembled with the loose bevel gear sitting between the other two. This prevents them from turning. I read a lot guys use hot glue or JB weld. Next thing I did, was bought a whole new set for front and rear diff gears as backup. The pic shows the aluminum driveshaft I'm working on. The wire shaft is a weak link in my opinion.
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Chassis is out. Time to start taking measurements and see how things will line up.
I cut the alum plate and mounter the front and rear diff's. next was to get the clearance needed for the front tires.
The final cuts are in for tire clearance. You also can see the old wire driveshaft and the one I made from round stock aluminum.
I cut the alum plate and mounter the front and rear diff's. next was to get the clearance needed for the front tires.
The final cuts are in for tire clearance. You also can see the old wire driveshaft and the one I made from round stock aluminum.
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juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Here's a picture I forgot to add. I mounted the tire on the old chassis and you see the difference and problems it would have.
I really like this look, but there's no clearance.
I really like this look, but there's no clearance.
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juswin24
Quarry Creeper
A little history on this rig, the opening pictured I used is the first time it ever had electronics installed. I have two of these. One is still in the box. I got these around when they first came and built the first chassis and then they sat. I changed hobbies for a few years. A friend and I got into rebuilding a custom 1/24 scale slot track in my basement. My father inlaw built it during the sixties. Sold the house and this stayed with it. I did take the sign down and took it. i plan on rebuilding a new track one day. Here's a some pictures.
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juswin24
Quarry Creeper
I got the chassis cut. I used 1/8" x 6 x12" aluminum plate. Took a couple cuts to the angle cut right. Had to make sure the tires cleared during suspension travel. When plate was installed I found that the front and rear diff mounts are not the same height. It took a spacer to adjust. Here's the bottom shot. If you look at rear diff on right you'll see two hole just right of motor. Diff mounts in 4 places on both diff's. I need to make a brace piece to mount from diff to the chassis.
BubbaEinstein
Quarry Creeper
There used to be a big slot track scene here about 10 yrs ago but like a lot of stuff it just died out...
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
That sign was from local shop that couldn't make it. About the same time yours went out.
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
Looking good.
How did the Ripsaws find their way on there? Aren't they a smidge taller than the Flat Irons?
How did the Ripsaws find their way on there? Aren't they a smidge taller than the Flat Irons?
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
After I started this build and looking for tires I ran across Axial products and found I needed more money. Went on a 6 month selling spree on eBay and end up with this
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/398956-dual-dingo-build-thread-my-first-build-thread.html
Sold all old rc racing gear from the 80's collecting dust. So for now the flat irons are the Dingo and the Ripsaws made there way here. All are still new just on different rigs for now. I think they are a little bit taller but up comings pics will show enough clearance for either one. 8)
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Here's the rear brace I made. Still need drill the holes for mounting. The gap between the chassis and brace is 7/8". Don't think this will effect ground clearance much.
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Well, even though I was really sick the past two months, I did get a little work done. The original hummer front body mount was too low and made of plastic. Since I needed to raise the body I tried to make a new mount out of aluminum and here's my attempt.
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Here it is with the body on.
juswin24
Quarry Creeper
Looks like I gained almost 1 1/2" more ground clearance.
