The progression of my XR10 into a Berg.

[bigstu]

I agree. I never thought I would like the pin tires, but after trying them, they are are hard to get rid of..
I still like the sedona/rover combo. Have thought really hard about the half sedona half pin tire set ups.
Might be a decent all around tire, but not great at any one thing.

I do have some silly ideas around those new AKA tires. Just need to get all these rigs finished, or sell a bunch of them, and make the tires work. For Gregs, Sedonas work. I'll have the pins, but most likely will be running the 6" Sedonas. If I get crazy I might shave some of the sidewalls as well. They could definately use it. The side lugs like to grab, but it isn't so bad with the increased clearance. I will admidt though, they are HEAVY. My XR is 6+lbs.

 

[95geo]

Wiring is done. Just need to finish the battery mount, put c clips in the rear tubes and put some lube on the gears and run some packs through it to see if all that work was worth it.

 

[95geo]

Just got done running the first pack through it.....

I have no idea why anyone would ever go from a berg to an XR. This thing is set up only slightly different than the XR and it is no comparison. It flat out works and holds a line better than the XR did at its best. It's at 4 lbs 16 oz with way too much added weight but its pretty impressive considering once the front tires are on a ledge it'll pull itself right up with air under the rear tires.

I need to figure out how to get more steering out of it and repackage the battery since it doesn't quite fit after some little changes that were unexpected. So, back to the drawing board for a bit.

 

[ittybitty]

I have no idea why anyone would ever go from a berg to an XR.

I'm glad you've seen the light 8)

 

[jeremyfowler33]

i guess that light will never shine on me I love my xr

 

[Nabil]

Just got done running the first pack through it.....

I have no idea why anyone would ever go from a berg to an XR.

Try coming up short on a 10 foot step down with about 15 feet between take off and landing :ror:

I will be back to a berg soon though

 

[TSK]

It's at 4 lbs 16 oz

Is t me or is that 5 lbs? Hahaha

Truth be told, I just put my XR axles up for sale. I do miss the steering angle of it, but most of all I miss the under axle clearance. I need to really focus on my line to avoid hanging up on it. The XR need had that problem.

 

[Farmer]

Good stuff man;-) Can't wait until Sunday!!! At last the Chumper will be alive:shock: Thanks in advance for the help"thumbsup"
Later,
Farmer

 

[binaryterror]

I have no idea why anyone would ever go from a berg to an XR.

Wait until you get more time and see how its durability is light years above the XR.

I still have stock lockers, and the original set of 300's in this truck (original as in from them being picked up at 09 Nats). The gears/housings/tubes are actually from 2010 though.

Sure the lockers and 300's are sloppy now, but still better than a XR after 3 packs...

 

[mustangboy_347]

i am afraid to run a plastic axles cause i beat the snot out of my bergs and have had them for 3+ years ..."thumbsup".. see ya soon

 

[95geo]

Is t me or is that 5 lbs? Hahaha

That's what I get for typing that up while half asleep... I meant to type 4 lbs 15 oz... I have 6 of the VP bullet weights in the front wheels which is right around 6 oz, on my XR I liked to run 3-4 oz. I'm going to try to get that balanced out before running any more packs through it.

I have an idea to get XR-like steering angle out of it. I'll post up my "fix" Saturday sometime.

The wheelbase is still about 2-3mm short so it's only going to get better! Kinda sucks that I only have a week to do it though...

 

[95geo]

"Bergs can't turn that tight."

"Wanna bet?!"

 

[TSK]

"Bergs can't turn that tight."

"Wanna bet?!"

Interesting solution...

 

[95geo]

I got to run another couple packs over the weekend and I'm happy with it, there are still a few areas that need addressing but for now, it's very much an improvement over the XR.

Does anyone have a recommendation on what to use for hex's and pins on the front axle? I keep breaking pins 10 seconds after tightening down the wheel. I thought it was the hex's so I used some O1 drill blanks and cut them to just the right size, swapped out the cheapo hex's for some green axials and 20 seconds later, "snap".... A couple seconds after that, "snap". So before I drill the 300HD's out for 2.5mm pins, what is the best stuff I can get? I am close to making some out of 7075 but there will be some machine time to take them down to 12mm from 12.7 so I'm looking for faster options right now.

Should I clean up the hole for the pin in the axle to remove the sharp edges that create the stress riser when the hex pushes on it? Or leave them sharp so the pin stays flat?

 

[JeremyH]

gunnar pins. "thumbsup"

 

[Nabil]

Sounds like you need a shim between the pin and outer bearing. When you are tightening the wheels, the pin is bottoming out in the slot before the hex touches the bearing race.

 

[95geo]

I think you're right, Nabil.... I'm just not sure how the shafts will like being solid at the knuckle with a delrin bushing inside the tube. The like to float a little so they don't bind up when turning really tight, with the included "spacer" the shafts were bound up because it basically removed the bearing from the knuckle. It's too big or too small to serve its purpose.

 

[jcboof]

I always though the pin bottoming in the hex was ok. If the hex squashed the bearing, it would cause bearing failure.

Learn me the right way, I've always had knuckle/hex interference.

 

[Nabil]

I'm not sure I follow you bryce. It almost sounds like the spacer shipped with the 300hd was too thick, therefore pushing the shaft too far in, and without the spacer, the shaft is now allowed to slide too far out. A little play isn't bad asking as its not causing any other issues. Unfortunately, with these little trucks its a game of thousandths where as with the 1:1s its a game of quarters. Another option would be a pseudo crush tube between the bearings to take up any slop.

Ideally you want the center of the cross to be centered between the kingpins. From there, floating in and out shouldn't be an issue

 

[mustangboy_347]

damn son lay off the wheaties and dont white knuckle the nut driver :lmao:jk....i have shimmed mine and have had very good luck with that .....