What did you do to/with your Ascender today

[derekmac]

I moved the light bar from the cage to the front bumper. The light is actually useable there, as it was just reflecting off the white roof before.

I also installed a BEC as the Savox 1230 just wasn't getting enough power from the ESC, and I hooked up the headlights to the front body posts so they'll come on when the body is put on. They are still on a switch though incase I don't want them on.

All the new wiring is temporary as I'll be redoing it all when my new ESC arrives.


Oh, I also camo wrapped the aluminum bits on the rear.

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[garage-boo]

Rigged me up a servo winch. All is well except how I have the line run through the bumper. Any ideas to make it better would be appreciated

 

[Schs2013]

Finally finished my GCMracing install. Back to the K10 from a Proline Kodiak/Topkick

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[Schs2013]

And gcmracing rear truss. Ended up readjusting both up rear links to 4.5mm instead of the 3mm gcmracing said to and all looks good.

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[Natedog]

YOu could cut out a larger hole in that bumper and bolt a fairlead on or buy/make a different bumper.

Motor forward, very nice!

 

[Schs2013]

Looking for suggestions to find inner fenders sections for my K10. In comparison to my trx4 K10 having inner fenders just helps the cosmetics of not seeing the inside electronics as much. any ideas? Red is for comparison of yellow what i want to do.

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[garage-boo]

Didn’t even think about the fair lead route! This lil rig is a crawling machine. With Trujillo spring mod plus inner ink pen spring it’s solid with almost zero TT

 

[Schs2013]

So been trying to fix the Issue of drag lin and panhard to minimize the bump steer made no progress. What are the correct link lengths for panhard and drag links? Reusing stock rod ends.

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[Natedog]

Looking for suggestions to find inner fenders sections for my K10. any ideas?

I used the bottom of any empty automotive windshield washer fluid bottle, body posts slip through hole in plastic and then bit of E6000 at bottom between frame rail and plastic bottle, roughed surface with green Scotchbrite pad, washed with hot dish soap water, painted black before installation. In my Ascender thread.

So been trying to fix the Issue of drag lin and panhard to minimize the bump steer made no progress. What are the correct link lengths for panhard and drag links? Reusing stock rod ends.

Can't tell from the pic you posted, but mine are all running steel threaded links with plastic ends, draglink to top of right side steering knuckle, very slight bumpsteer, but no flex and if your servo is strong it will steer and moved the truck! Length of my draglinks is about 90mm eye to eye.

Just measured, my custom tie-rod is 145mm eye to eye (stock uses 90mm aluminum tube with 20mm setscrews and stock plastic ends). This is same for all Ascenders regardless of wheelbase.


Drag link for WB1/WB2 is shorter than WB3/WB4
WB1-2 is not sure as I don't have one.
WB3-4 is about 75mm eye to eye, however I prefer to run a longer adjustable turnbuckle to top of steering knuckle, with plastic ends that is about 90mm eye to eye.

Stock uses 38mm aluminum tube with two 20mm setscrews and stock plastic ends, eye to eye about 75mm length.


BRB, gotta see if I can find my stock one to measure.

Updatess...
Ascender manual for K5 Blazer KIT WB4 is here, starting on page 30, step B9 Lower steering link assembly:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/VTR03023_Manual.pdf

Exploded view of the F100 WB2:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/VTR03023_Exploded_View.pdf

VTR23406 is listed as the steering linkage parts, but there was an omission of the part number for shorter wb draglink length and part number. The proper length is listed in my Ascender thread, if you read through it, iirc it was 30mm aluminum tube plus the setscrews and plastic end link bits.

 

[BIGW0RM]

I donated mine to a young man at work because I have too many in my collection. I'll miss my first trail/crawler RC! It was a TANK!

 

[Schs2013]

I used the bottom of any empty automotive windshield washer fluid bottle, body posts slip through hole in plastic and then bit of E6000 at bottom between frame rail and plastic bottle, roughed surface with green Scotchbrite pad, washed with hot dish soap water, painted black before installation. In my Ascender thread.




Can't tell from the pic you posted, but mine are all running steel threaded links with plastic ends, draglink to top of right side steering knuckle, very slight bumpsteer, but no flex and if your servo is strong it will steer and moved the truck! Length of my draglinks is about 90mm eye to eye.

Just measured, my custom tie-rod is 145mm eye to eye (stock uses 90mm aluminum tube with 20mm setscrews and stock plastic ends). This is same for all Ascenders regardless of wheelbase.


Drag link for WB1/WB2 is shorter than WB3/WB4
WB1-2 is not sure as I don't have one.
WB3-4 is about 75mm eye to eye, however I prefer to run a longer adjustable turnbuckle to top of steering knuckle, with plastic ends that is about 90mm eye to eye.

Stock uses 38mm aluminum tube with two 20mm setscrews and stock plastic ends, eye to eye about 75mm length.


BRB, gotta see if I can find my stock one to measure.

Updatess...
Ascender manual for K5 Blazer KIT WB4 is here, starting on page 30, step B9 Lower steering link assembly:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/VTR03023_Manual.pdf

Exploded view of the F100 WB2:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/VTR03023_Exploded_View.pdf

VTR23406 is listed as the steering linkage parts, but there was an omission of the part number for shorter wb draglink length and part number. The proper length is listed in my Ascender thread, if you read through it, iirc it was 30mm aluminum tube plus the setscrews and plastic end link bits.

I forgot to take the link pictures. One is with the truck on it's side and on its wheels not sure what other pictures you would need. And a flex shot of everything.
Thank you for the response it is very much appreciated and helpful. I need to get me a Calipers to get more exact measurements and details

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[Natedog]

Thanks for the pictures update, I'd just make a longer link and bolt it to top of right knukcle like this:


IMG_2080 by Nathan C, on Flickr

IMG_2081 by Nathan C, on Flickr

 

[Schs2013]

Why have a link on top of one knuckles and. Other under it? For bolt on position?

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[touch racing]

Look at the second pic Natedog posted. The goal is to have the steering link and the panhard link parallel to each other when looking at them from the front.

 

[Schs2013]

I didn't realize that.

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[Natedog]

Look at the second pic Natedog posted. The goal is to have the steering link and the panhard link parallel to each other when looking at them from the front.

Yes. "thumbsup"

 

[CjMcLemore]

I picked up the Yeah Racing, Desert Lizard internal spring shocks. Set them up for 50/50 droop, (mid length soft springs between the Piston and lower cap, mid length medium weight springs in the upper part of the shock, single hole pistons, 10wt oil). This setup has virtually eliminated any torque twist.

 

[druz]

I donated mine to a young man at work because I have too many in my collection. I'll miss my first trail/crawler RC! It was a TANK!

This is..... is like playing with my emotions, Smokey! :mrgreen:

 

[CjMcLemore]

People say there is no such thing as Santa....

 

[garage-boo]

Got me some cheap beadlocks, pitbull mad beasts, and CI dual stage foams. I also made me a servo winch out of 25kg servo.