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What did you do to/with your Ascender today

Ran my new pro line tsl’s and dual stage foams today. Does it take a few runs to break the foams in? Cause my first impression is they freaking suck!! They suck so bad let’s just say I can finally buy that new transmitter iv been looking at. The truck just bounces and hops, I’m half tempted to put the memory foams that they came with back in.


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BAJAREY2017 said:
Ran my new pro line tsl’s and dual stage foams today. Does it take a few runs to break the foams in? Cause my first impression is they freaking suck!! They suck so bad let’s just say I can finally buy that new transmitter iv been looking at. The truck just bounces and hops, I’m half tempted to put the memory foams that they came with back in.


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Click to expand...



Yeah probably after about 5-10 batteries (depending on your run times) they will start to shine and really work!


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Thanks, I hope so cause I can’t believe how bad they are now, I guess I’ll run a few more packs and decide then


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Was having an awesome day until about 20 minutes In then this happened, it’s weird cause I didn’t really have any hard hits. I finished the day anyways but I was looking for some titanium ones but saw they have been discontinued. What’s everybody else using.
43abd2f7e5c030f7e03ff18ea8f87496.jpg



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BAJAREY2017 said:
Was having an awesome day until about 20 minutes In then this happened, it’s weird cause I didn’t really have any hard hits. I finished the day anyways but I was looking for some titanium ones but saw they have been discontinued. What’s everybody else using.
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Click to expand...

Check out BlueMonkey, kit replaces all 10 links.
Stage 1 Ti Link Upgrade for Ascender, Blue Monkey RC
 
I made my own links from 6mm stainless steel tube and 3mm stainless threaded rod.. I have used Revo rod ends on another truck and used the same tube, but 4mm threaded rod (all bought from ebay) but the stainless tube needs drilling to allow the rod to go through. Difficult, but possible.
 
Hmmm... we used to get some members remarking on wait times, now there's this:
 

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wow! :shock:

I would love to find a source for one-piece links - I've never liked piecing them together with the spacers. I would be happy to run 4mm threaded rod. I haven't bent any, but they do drag a lot.
 
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If you're on Facebook, lookup Hardcore RC. I don't remember if they were steel or ti., but they had a high clearance, 10 piece set that was reasonably priced.

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SS or Ti one-piece links from Hardcore RC

Ascender'nMN84 said:
If you're on Facebook, lookup Hardcore RC. I don't remember if they were steel or ti., but they had a high clearance, 10 piece set that was reasonably priced.
Click to expand...

Got a reply on the SS or TI links from Harcore RC via Facebook...
$60 for SS, $80 for Ti. I asked what the difference was, pros and cons - crickets.

Anyone want to comment on the pros and cons for each?

Surely Ti is lighter, likely stronger, but either should be stronger than the stock alloy ones, and we don't really need lightweight down low. Or am I missing something here?
Ti slides easier?
 
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If your not racing your trucks then ss should be a good alternative to the stock links(trust me I flog mine! And it’s on the stock links) as ti links usually sit in wraiths and what not (jumping and crashing into things)


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Re: SS or Ti one-piece links from Hardcore RC

Browneye said:
Got a reply on the SS or TI links from Harcore RC via Facebook...
$60 for SS, $80 for Ti. I asked what the difference was, pros and cons - crickets. It was just all about the $$. :shock:

Anyone want to comment on the pros and cons for each?

Surely Ti is lighter, likely stronger, but either should be stronger than the stock alloy ones, and we don't really need lightweight down low. Or am I missing something here?
Ti slides easier?
Click to expand...

I would say SS and TI are comparable in strength, but the Ti is lighter. I have raced and been friends with Kelly Lunsford of Lunsford Racing (Titanium Parts) for years and that is the answer I got from him when I asked the question.

I use his 1/8 scale turn buckles all the time. They are 4mm, with 3mm threads and he has a wide variety of lengths. Check out his web site.
"thumbsup"
Ernie
 
Re: SS or Ti one-piece links from Hardcore RC

CODYBOY said:
I would say SS and TI are comparable in strength, but the Ti is lighter. I have raced and been friends with Kelly Lunsford of Lunsford Racing (Titanium Parts) for years and that is the answer I got from him when I asked the question.

I use his 1/8 scale turn buckles all the time. They are 4mm, with 3mm threads and he has a wide variety of lengths. Check out his web site.
"thumbsup"
Ernie
Click to expand...



<table width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td class="content-TD" valign="top">Rock Grinder Links

</td></tr> <tr><td class="content-TD" valign="top"> Home > Rock Crawling > Crawler Building Supplies > Rock Grinder Links
</td></tr> <tr><td class="content-TD" valign="top"> We have discontinued our titanium rock grinder links. They are no longer available.</td></tr></tbody></table>"
 
Re: SS or Ti one-piece links from Hardcore RC

Ascender'nMN84 said:
These are the parts Ernie uses here*:

https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/...Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=LUNS&Category_Code=4MM

* I'm pretty sure

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Click to expand...

I figured, but there must be a cover or something - brake line? I wouldn't want threaded rod exposed. Don't need titanium either.

How 'bout this GPM outlet? They have sets for $38, "anti-thread" links, but list them for a 308mm wheelbase blazer - it's actually 314. I emailed them for clarification - if that's an error or what.
https://www.gpmparts.com/vaterra-11...eelbase-8pcs-set-gpm-k5160308-p-90071135.html

b_k5160_308.jpg


 
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