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What did you do to/with your Ascender today

Re: SS or Ti one-piece links from Hardcore RC

I figured, but there must be a cover or something - brake line? I wouldn't want threaded rod exposed. Don't need titanium either.

How 'bout this GPM outlet? They have sets for $38, "no thread" links, but list them for a 308mm wheelbase blazer - it's actually 314. I emailed them for clarification - if that's an error or what.
https://www.gpmparts.com/vaterra-11...eelbase-8pcs-set-gpm-k5160308-p-90071135.html

b_k5160_308.jpg


I could be very wrong, but I would suspect those to be equal or lesser quality than stock.

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Just get the SSD links and be done with it. Those blue things have an aweful ridge between link and end, will get caught up on everything.

Ben
 
Just get the SSD links and be done with it. Those blue things have an aweful ridge between link and end, will get caught up on everything.

Ben
Agreed. I believe SSD stopped producing their Ascender links though. While still available at a few places, others that have them listed as 'out of stock' should just remove them.

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Yeah, saw the SSD ones while searching. But you'd still have to put the 2 12mm spacers at each end - that just doesn't register right with me. Oh well.

I watched a few vids on making links with 8/32 threaded rod and brake line. Seems like that might be an option if one had a problem with the stock ones. Or needed a custom length.

The FB guys, 'hardcore rc' finally got back...
"Sorry, at work…Titanium is lighter and stronger. Stainless is heavy and bends easier on the bend jig."​

I dunno, I'm having trouble with the cost-to-value ratio on those for $80. Costs me nothing more to use the ones in the kit. [shrug] :shock:


EDIT: I wonder if this is the same guy...seems like it is - 'Titanium Mike' here on the forum: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chassis-suspension/536151-high-clearance-links-vaterra-ascender.html

For high-clearance custom bent ones it might be worth it. I might drop coin for these.
 
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I don't care for how that set is double bent on the lowers, unnecessary and doesn't look right.

SSD RC made link set for us Ascender guys but never asked for input beforehand and when peeps told him what they wanted on here after the fact, he didn't make any changes, bummer. His SCX10ii set is beautiful.
Maybe adapt the SCX10ii set to Ascender? Nice that they use larger 4mm threaded ends.
HD Steel/Titanium Suspension Link Set for SCX10 II

BTW, Traxxas TRX-4 straight rod ends are 4mm and heavy duty, love em. :)
PART NUMBER: TRA8276
Traxxas Rod ends (10) TRX-4
 
No spacers needed with the ssd links.

7fe3bee371b0e5c0dc3eb3d7ba79eb15.jpg


Not sure about availability though. Glad I got mine I guess.

Ben


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They offer all three lengths. Boom!

PARTS FOR ASCENDER

Pinion angle was the same because the links are the same length as stock. Just one piece. I never bent a stock link. Don't drive like a savage. I actually wore them to a flat bottom and was tired of aluminum sticking to the rocks. I'm not a ssd fan boi by any stretch, kinda critical of their lack of perfect fit for price ratio but I do like the links.

Ben
 
Damn fat fingers typing while standing in line at the store. 3 lengths is correct and what I was going for. Thanks for correcting me Ben I do (seriously) appreciate it!

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Damn fat fingers typing while standing in line at the store. 3 lengths is correct and what I was going for. Thanks for correcting me Ben I do (seriously) appreciate it!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

No problem. I didn't realize that they are hard to find now. I got mine so long ago and haven't needed another set since my 2nd ascender is on leafs I never look at them. Nate likes the vaterra aluminum links and has them on his rigs. They look kinda funky but I think they clear the frame at full compression due to the slight bend they have but I'm not 100% on that. My SSD's still hit the bottom of the frame on the front with about 1mm left of shock travel but I don't care.

Ben
 
I think I paid $12 for 4 of these, I can use the stock ends and some minor trimming and they will fit right in. They are aluminum but thicker then stock.
950d00a3c93817f4b7a0ca9f909370cf.jpg
ca0efbe59e6499b14c0c3f89da7ad9b8.jpg



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What is the correct pinion angle? On my wb3 the front is tilted up a bit and the back was almost tilted down. I took the lower links off tonight and ground off about a mm on the 12mm spacers - they're now 11mm and the pinion is level - at least not down now.
 
They offer all three lengths. Boom!

PARTS FOR ASCENDER

Pinion angle was the same because the links are the same length as stock. Just one piece. I never bent a stock link. Don't drive like a savage. I actually wore them to a flat bottom and was tired of aluminum sticking to the rocks. I'm not a ssd fan boi by any stretch, kinda critical of their lack of perfect fit for price ratio but I do like the links.

Ben

Thanks - I had not found them in the various sizes. For $30 an end they're worth it instead of all the pieces. "thumbsup"



Here's a pic that shows pinion angle pretty well on my WB3. The rear lowers are the ones I shortened about a mm - probly need another 1 or 2mm ground off them...

I was curious about proper pinion angle for these - I know in a 1:1 if it's off they'll vibrate a lot, so the output for both ends are supposed to be the same angle. We would put a CV joint in the TJ Wranglers and tilt the diff up and point it at the TC.

I'm looking at links for the WB4 I'm just starting.

 
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They offer all three lengths. Boom!

PARTS FOR ASCENDER

Pinion angle was the same because the links are the same length as stock. Just one piece. I never bent a stock link. Don't drive like a savage. I actually wore them to a flat bottom and was tired of aluminum sticking to the rocks. I'm not a ssd fan boi by any stretch, kinda critical of their lack of perfect fit for price ratio but I do like the links.

Ben

Agreed. Even though I turned them just so during mounting/attaching ball ends, the Vaterra HD front lowers touch the frame at about same compression point, works fine but I've been meaning to Dremel a divot into the links to fully clear and get the last millimeter or two. Rears clear fine. :)

What is the correct pinion angle? On my wb3 the front is tilted up a bit and the back was almost tilted down. I took the lower links off tonight and ground off about a mm on the 12mm spacers - they're now 11mm and the pinion is level - at least not down now.

Thanks for the picture, I also have lots of 1:1 lifted truck driveshaft experience and it doesnt' translate 100%, but does have an effect. I've done the opposite of your lower link shortening, iirc I added 2-3mm spacers to rear upper links, just enough to tip pinion up out of the rocks, but don't ever let the rear joint angle go over center as the suspension compresses. :ror:"thumbsup":)
 
Thanks for the picture, I also have lots of 1:1 lifted truck driveshaft experience and it doesnt' translate 100%, but does have an effect. I've done the opposite of your lower link shortening, iirc I added 2-3mm spacers to rear upper links, just enough to tip pinion up out of the rocks, but don't ever let the rear joint angle go over center as the suspension compresses. :ror:"thumbsup":)

I would have done that but the overall WB is a couple of mm long so shortening was a good option for this one.

I was surprised at how much more tilted up the front was. Of course Vaterra isn't gonna custom build links for each wheelbase, so I get that. Some fine tuning seemed to make sense here.

I'm trying to work something out with 'titaniummike' on his bent links. I'd be fine with SS, and just the lowers. Will keep ya's posted... 8)
 
Cool, upper and lower rear links are same length, shorten the uppers little too. :)

I was trying to get the pinion more level or even pointing up a bit. Mission accomplished, but likely could have gone another mm or two. Maybe I'll fiddle with it some more.

Also got a bag of pivot balls and longer screws to outboard the rear shocks. "thumbsup"



"Titanium-Mike" is all 8 links only for $80. So I got a pair of SSD's for lowers front and back. That will have to do for now.

I've spent another three or four hundred for parts for this newest kit. Dayummm... :shock:

Time to build it. Next comp is February 24. 8)
 
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