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Thread: Loco FJ-01

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Old 10-01-2009, 08:19 PM   #21
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Thanks. I appreciate the info. Now I have an idea how to make parts that have a professional look
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:36 AM   #22
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Is that a New Bright body, and what is the wheel base on that cruiser?
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Old 10-14-2009, 01:08 PM   #23
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Hey Eric - You need to Put some lights on that FJ and bring it out to Flat Rock
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super View Post
Is that a New Bright body, and what is the wheel base on that cruiser?
It's a Nikko body and it's a bit bigger than the New Bright one. The wheelbase is 10.5" which is perfect for the the CC-01 when run in the long wheelbase mode.

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Hey Eric - You need to Put some lights on that FJ and bring it out to Flat Rock
I need to get it running soon, haven't had a chance to work on it lately
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Old 10-17-2009, 11:15 PM   #25
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I can't wait to see this build finished! It was such a massive inspiration! I know it's going to look great when it's finished!

Or should I say "When it's done"? These things are never truly finished.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:47 PM   #26
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thanks rampage

So it's been hard to motivate and find time to work on this rig lately. The white stamped wheels just weren't doing it for me so I thought these fancy billet wheels would look better:



I think this wheel tire combo will fit the look of truck better:



what do you guys think?

I also have an Al. steering kit on the way...
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:03 PM   #27
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I like it Erik. Those wheels fit the late model body's look a little better IMO.
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:54 PM   #28
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Those wheels look very good on there!
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Old 10-31-2009, 04:30 PM   #29
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Where are the Alum. rims from? They look awesome.
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Old 10-31-2009, 06:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywerx View Post
Where are the Alum. rims from? They look awesome.
Thx, they came from RC4WD:

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=879
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Old 12-02-2009, 11:16 PM   #31
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Finally got some time over the thanksgiving holiday to get some work done on my CC-01/FJ.

First I stripped the body to get it ready for mounting and paint. I had issues with cracks around the front body post mounts on my previous rig. So this time I removed the front body posts and shoe glooe'd an aluminum plate under the hood to beef up its strength and serve as a place to add hook and loop fastner (same bracket treatment for the rear but used screws and the orignal body posts):



On the chassis I MadFab'd a couple aluminum brackets the will have the mating pieces of hook and loop fastener:



Here you can see the almost final product, I also removed the running boards on on the Nikko body:

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Old 12-02-2009, 11:29 PM   #32
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Also finally received the aluminum steering kit from GPM, nice packaging. I got the black ano version but not quite sure why they bothered to ano the center rod that connects the top arm to the bottom arm (it's totally hidden when installed):



First things first I found replacment M3 pan head hex screws to replace the phillips that came with the kit. I also decided to use locktite for all screws to prevent loosening:



Second I installed the larger brass bushings and ball stud in the lower arm with the bearings:



Then I installed the connecting rod making sure to lube the small brass bushings and again used locktite on the pan head screws, make sure the bushings are installed with the flanges against the steering arms or else there will be bindage:



With the slave steering arm installed to the chassis I then pressed the thicker plastic bushing and bearing into the lower hole on the chassis:



Bottom half all buttoned up:



Top half with Hitec 645MG servo and black aluminum servo arm installed:

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Old 12-02-2009, 11:41 PM   #33
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After I installed the steering I decided the front end needed a little more lift to level the truck. I used 3mm spacers from Fast Eddie under the front skid to effectivly lower the front A-arms.

But once you lower the front A-arms you end up with too much negative caster so I had to fab some longer upper control links using Traxxas rod ends, a long Axial M3 threaded stud and a 3mm spacer:



Here you can see the new upper control link installed and skid spacer:



Also the bog bone had a bit more slop than I like so i put another o-ring in the diff side drive cup:

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Old 12-03-2009, 08:04 AM   #34
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Man you have been MIA for awhile Eric, good to see you back. Now get back to posting so I can "borrow" ideas from you
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:48 AM   #35
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X2 nice to see you building when your ready to go scalen give me a call
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:39 PM   #36
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Thanks guys, definitely been a crazy couple of months here and being able to finally work on one of my rigs last week helped increase my RC mojo a little.

Here is a little update I forgot to post up yesterday...

Got the electronics installed installed and it runs!!!

Novak Rooster crawler ESC and Futaba 3Ch Rx with 2cell 2000mAh Lipo



Also added some black styrene to fill that ugly stick pack hole on the side of the chassis



The rig runs great with the 55t, it is a bit fast but with the hand wound integy the low end torque an throttle control is great!
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:15 PM   #37
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Nice looking rig The billet rims make it look like th mall crawlers is ee around where i live.
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Old 12-06-2009, 03:07 PM   #38
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Ultra-clean! I love that GPM steering. Post-monetary-apocalypse (Christmas), I plan on getting the steering kit myself.
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:50 PM   #39
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Hey mad any new thing give us more
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:19 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.VERTICAL View Post
Hey mad any new thing give us more
actually have a tube front bumper in the works, I have the next week and a half off so hopefully I'll finish the bumper and some sliders this week end
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