Heavy Metal KOH Jeepster Commando (C-101)

[sweli]

Set the chassis asside for a few days and fabbed up the front link mounts and truss on the Sherline.

The Blackwidow axles have a LOT of little screws!
Going to pack it with Mobil1 red grease.


Fabbed up this truss for the front axle:
Front -


Back-


Ready for assembly with lower link and shock mounts that pinch the axle tubes (copy of the rears).

[sweli]

Tie point for the panhard, lower links, shocks, and third link.
I pushed the third link through the truss to a small detail on the front of it.

[sweli]

Little more done on the front end of the frame rails.

Shock Hoops - off main rails and tied to fender exo
Panhard Mount
Steering box pivot (axle is going to be so far out in front, that servo will be remotely mounted)
Four body mounts (need two more up front)

[sweli]

Burnt some midnight oil (and grouchy for it )

Fabbed up links and go the axles and shocks on.

Lower links are 3/8" SS tubing, pinched and pounded to form a channel up the middle.
Then drilled and chamfered.
Monster 5mm SS heim joints attach them to the frame. (not too scale, but look mean)
Temp Jato links will be replaced with some RC4WD alum ones soon.

Upper links and Panhard bars, drag link and steering links are SS rod brazed with SS M3 connecting nuts.

Panhard + 3link front and rear.

Remote mounted servo has a pivot arm near the panhard frame mount.
I'll get some separate pics of it later.

RC4WD Ultimate Scale Shocks
100mm front, 90mm rear.
Internal soft springs. Outside med spring section for now, gives an 75/25 droop with the Tonka body and other weight sitting on them (not in pics).





Front:






Rear:

[RiceBurner]

All I got is...WOW! there's nothing here I don't like

[sweli]

Originally Posted by RiceBurner

All I got is...WOW! there's nothing here I don't like

Thanks!!

Half of me is pleased how it is turning out, the other half sees all the flaws.
Need to shut that guy up

[17dean]

Fantastic work my dude!

[sweli]

Originally Posted by 17dean

Fantastic work my dude!

Much appreciated, thx!

[C4B_ROCKs]

Nice job on the fabbing, good choices of components.. :-)

[sweli]

I was originally after it all including the golden goose............

Well, OK, BTA steering anyway.

But with the frame hanging lower than the Tonka belly, 3 link and oversized lower links, it got to be a nightmare.

So along comes the idea of a steering box.
I bought a plastic Highlift box which I imagined mouting to a plate I brazed to the frame. But wow is that box tall!
Stock photo:



So I picked up a couple RC4WD Bruiser Steering Arms:



So regular steering tie bar in front.
Brazed on M3 coupling nut to the frame.
M3 SS screw up through brass tubing inside of the steering arm, hanging under the frame.
Drag link hangs out in front a little more than I wanted, but is almost dead on parallel with panhard bar when looking from the front.
Temporary threaded rod in pic will lead back to servo mount.

[ngward79]

Can't wait to see how this thing turns out , looking good so far ! My brother has one of these Tonka's and if yours turns out well I may have to convince him to let me do something similar to yours. If you don't mind of course !

[sweli]

Originally Posted by ngward79

Can't wait to see how this thing turns out , looking good so far ! My brother has one of these Tonka's and if yours turns out well I may have to convince him to let me do something similar to yours. If you don't mind of course !

Thanks!

I do wonder how it'll trail run. Prob won't side hill or vertical too well with the Tonka body on it.

[ngward79]

I don't think it will be that bad. A lot of guys here make some big trucks with solid rod chassis and they seem to do ok. And if nothing else put some wheel weights on it in the front. Anyway good luck , keep the pics flowing .

[sweli]

From the rear face of the R2D2, to the input face on the transfer is approx 38mm.
I was shooting for 45mm so there were more options, but did not work out.

So I need a shaft and joint set up:

• Take the riggers of a 1.9 trail rig center shaft (trans to transfer)
• 38mm max end to end
• 4-5mm of travel (disconnect travel)
• 15deg and a few mm misalignment

What I have so far is a CEN universal (made for boats).
Drilled out one end from 4mm to 5mm.
Drilled out opposite end to 3+mm to fit cut dogbone end.
Dogbone end cut with flat ground on it.
I just don't think this will take the torque
(the M4 set screw hex stripped. I had to cut a slot to try and get it out, still failed an stuck)

[sweli]

Some searching on Ebay, OEM sites exploded views for bearing diameters and such has turned up the following.
My baseline is the 14mm HPI shaft.
I like the Kyosho length, but do no think aluminum will hold up - thoughts??
I am leaning towards the 1/16 Revo CV. It is set up for 4mm on the CVD end, but could be drilled out.




Some that prob won't work:

[semnmrc]

Excellent work!
I started a jeepster build a while back and still can't seem to finish it.

Here's a link http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-s...mrc-build.html it's been a year since I started it and 6 months since I worked on it!

[sweli]

Originally Posted by semnmrc

Excellent work!
I started a jeepster build a while back and still can't seem to finish it.

Here's a link http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-s...mrc-build.html it's been a year since I started it and 6 months since I worked on it!

thx!!

Was your chassis originally a large, square extrusion? Cool it fits the width of the body like that!

It is tuff to get everything in this and leave room for an interior!

[Peli]

Love the CAD rendering of what you want this to look like,cool looking truck

Why don't you try the MERV centre CVD from Integy,and then use a drive cup on the dogbone end,then when you want it off,undo the cup from the front gearbox and slide it down onto the CVD,and it should slip off the gearbox output.

Of course,this may take a bit off juggling and measuring,and may even need the CVD shortened a tad.Or the drivecup shortened to be able remove it,and then slid forward and done up to engage the dogbone.

Killer build so far...Just one thing,considering how much effort you have gone to with the body,and the chassis,I think the lower links and big rodend kill it.
The links just look horrible ( my opinion of course,tell me to piss off if it gets to you) and I think they detract from your previous work.The rodend is just to big looking.

Cant wait to see this finished

[sweli]

Gggrrrrrrrrrrrr.....……
Just kidding. LOL!

Thanks for the comments!

I did think they were a little big too.
I was given the Heims free and was originally doing this build on a budget. Including some old TLT axles.

I'm tied up with other parts of it right now but will prob revisit the links later.

[AxialJeepster]

nice nice nice!! its a JEEPSTER... LOVE this. cant wait to see.