Heavy Metal KOH Jeepster Commando (C-101)

[sweli]

Originally Posted by french_connection

I kinda dig the 2 tone, especially since you kept the Jeepster full retro front end look.

What about pearl white metallic and deep red or orange metallic?
White up high or down low??

[sweli]

So what am I doing in this little rig with an R2D2 trans??
(besides buggering it up - LOL)

I wanted to try my luck at another PTO winch

I have a gear driven winch in my 2.2 JK. But got ripped on a bit, because it is gear/shaft driven from a separate MRC trans/motor.

It is going to be tight as _____ to fit in here, and probably not too scale looking.

My last one was cut from Delrin. This one is following the all metal build and will be from aluminum.

[DaveFL]

Originally Posted by sweli

I need to start thinking about paint.

Traditional or something new???
Underside is going to be flat black.
Should I do single color or 2-tone?? High or Low 2-tone??(look at some of the pics)

First page here are a few traditional colors I like, along with some numbered paint chips I also am considering.
If I go with one of the newer chips, it will prob be a deep metallic.

thoughts





Here are some others, but not my first choice........

Okay Im building up my Tonka Jeepster on the side, althoughI was trying to make it classic scale I've seen a few other posts that have Jeepster Serious mods on them longer WB etc.

Now also being a Jeepster Commando Club member, and owning a Classic Jeepster that was body of resto (mod) as I did do some change engine mostly and dash. I will chime in on colors and let you decide.

All Jeepster Commando's (please make sure folks there is a difference Jeepsert Commando 1967-1970 and then Commando (often people put the name in front of it since it had the same rear but the front clip was more in style of a Bronco or Scout often these are referred to as Jeepster Bullnose's or by thier real name Commando) except 3 models where SOLID colors, the only 4 which where not solid.

Jeepster Models and color options

Jeepster Commando Deluxe, Jeepseter Commando Wagon, Jeepster Commando, Jeepster Commando Half Cab I can go into the diffrerence on these but thay are Very Minor (deluxe has inserior vinyl door panels and carpert, Wagon Had a hard top There was also a deluxe wagon, ALL HARD TOPS where WHITE from the factory no other color available)

Jeepster Commando Hurst Edition, This model had a hood scope, with a tach in it and a Hurt shifter no other mods The Jeepster was white in color with blue and red painted striping.

Jeepsert Commando SC1 No difference on this Jeepster besides it name meant it to be a "sportier" Model These where only offer in Indian Cermiac I have heard Patriot red but no one has any validation on this, The SC1 Had Black Striping painted across the front vent that when down in a straght arc over the rocker panels thats it.

Jeepsetr Commando Covertible and Continetal Convertable, These are the the Jeepster you see with the 2 town paint strip around the top of the door area around the entire Jeepster and over the front cowl.

Now mine, I went with a HOK mix that was a close to indian ceramic as my body code calls for but I put a pearl finish under it. Not stock but its more now of a rat rod restor rod Beach buggy.

Dave

[sweli]

Wow, thx for the info Dave!
Can you post up a pic of yours?

This build is a long way from stock. I was wondering what color someone who put 1 ton axles and $30k into a 1:1 Jeepster rig, would paint it.

Btw, are any of those blue rigs in the first pic, close to stock (metallic)?

[DaveFL]

No Jeep never put a mettalic in the stock paint, but you can not match stock paint any more or you can if you have the time, quailty paint supplier and machine if you can find a set of chips of ebay or other places.

The Green on in the upper right belongs to Scott, his has a slight metallic to it. I dont know either of the 2 blue, but I have seen 3 Pristine blue restos that have a slight metallic in it.

But as far as I know the only one that ever had a hint of mettalic in the paint was the Green one.

AS far as my 1:1 No pics of it as it sits now, but heres prior to ripping it apart again and make it a beach buggy resto rod

[DaveFL]

More pics having problems

[sweli]

Wow Dave!!
Super nice looking ride!
Just getting warm in Michigan, wish I had that for the summer!

[itsjust me]

x2 on the 2-tone.

[DaveFL]

Michagain hehe, The green Jeepster in your pics with colors on the upper right side belongs to a guy named Scotty he lives in Michigan, no idea where but maybe you will see it on the road someday.

If you want to really look at a ton of Jeepsters from mild to wild you can register The Jeepster Commando Club of America They also have a decent little slide show prior to going to the forum and regestering to see pics that shows a lot of Jeepsters and Commandos from stock to wild to mild.

CJ6 front clips work on the Jeepster frame so it is possible to have a CJ6 fron with a Jeepster body, What you see on Pirate is not half of some of the stuff that have been done with Jeepsters. Some gus build them and run them hard a lot of folks restore them for crusing and some build them for just minor trail rides.

The Jeepster did not have a lot of HP, but plenty tourqe thanks to a 90lb flywheel. But the Dana 20 in then and the 3 speeds just do not have a good crawl ratio, any cj5/7 YJ/TJ or JK has better gearing.

Good luck hope I can start to work and finish my Jeepster soon, but I got the SCX10 Wrangler I am working with now.

Dave

[sweli]

Got more milling done.

Gear and cable areas.
Bores for main shaft bearings.
Opening and threaded holes for RC4WD Viking Fairlead.

[sweli]

I got the rest of the machining done. Got the winch dry fit assembled.

Parts List:

• Aluminum Block (LOL!)
  
• Traxxas Jato 5mm Slipper Shaft, TRA5566
  
  
• GPM RC18 Steel Bevel Dif - 14T pinion and 35T spur, SAR035T14T
  
  
• HPI Savage XS slipper hubs, HPI105817
  
  
• HPI Slipper Clutch Plates and Pads, HPI105805
  
  
• SS Spring cone washers (various spring rates, Mcmaster Carr)
• 5mm E clips
• Stub Shaft Drive Pin
• (2) 5x11mm flange bearings - for the main shaft - could have gone smaller OD, but wanted slightly more beef
• Short section of 4mm shaft, flat ground on one end for the pinion gear
• 4x8mm flange bearings
• Brass tube used as spacers/bushings
• Traxxas Stampede slipper spring

[sweli]

I could have made this whole assembly much smaller without a slipper clutch incorporated into it.
But I (or my kids) don't want to loose a finger to an 400size outrunner on 3s pulling Kevlar line.

I had to turn down the OD of the Savage XS slipper hubs and plates to fit the RC18 steel gears.
The front face hub (on the gear side) has the drive pin through it and the Jato shaft. It had to be turned down the most, to fit inside the gear ID face. The clutch plate got too small to be useful, so the clutch pad is contact cemented to the hub.
The rear face hub has a larger ID, and the clutch plate is cemented to the pad.
A 4mm flange nut compresses the slipper spring and can be adjusted from the end as necessary.

I am close with the mesh, but not quite the small gap I would prefer.
I'll have to see if the gears hold up.

[sweli]

[chris_snchez]

Oh dear lord your work is gorgeous. That pto winch is brilliant. I am a fan for sure. Keep up the good work.

[sweli]

Originally Posted by chris_snchez

Oh dear lord your work is gorgeous. That pto winch is brilliant. I am a fan for sure. Keep up the good work.

WOW! Thanks Chris!
I like that utility boxed crew cab you are working on!
Did you ever work out the Tekin stuff?

[chris_snchez]

Yes its a running truck and a ton of fun. It`s the greatest feeling running something you`ve built.

[DaveFL]

Love the fact that your are putting a PTO winch on it. That was a Factory Option on the Jeepsters, rare but there where still quite a few with PTO winches. Makes it more "Jeepster" like as it was a factory option even with all the other upgrades.

Heh, WHile your at it, Jeepster also had a factory option snow plow attachement want to build a snow plow on the front? (j/k)

Looks good I really need to get to work on mine but too much to do. Not to mention I wish I had left the bottom in min like you did and worked out from there, I cut the bottom out, and was trying several scale chasis but none fit the a stock Jeepster (tonka) body unless I do some major trimming. Most I can get under the stock wheel wells for a Well base is 9.5 to 10. I've been looking into a stretch, or a new chasis. I picked up a r3 tranny and hammer tcase at a swap meet for some 1.5 bead locks from RC4wd that had the red ring (discontinued I think) I got the r3, Hammer and 4 1.5 white spoke wagon wheels.

Love your build man, It's making me think more and more along the lines of a higher end crawler build vs the stock look I was trying for. Only time will tell. I've got too many iorns in the fire now. Need to finish my scx10 then decide to work on the Jeepster?, The Twin Hammers, or wait for my new Axial Wrangler Wraith.

Dave

[sweli]

Thanks again for the comments!!

Looks like I'll end up with 10-3/4" WB.
I had considered cutting the belly pan out also.
I considered vac molding a body from my steel one. It would make the 12 chassis and cage mounting points a real challenge at this point.
I think she'll trail run fine, but the steel may make it a high centered turd for big time crawling. LOL

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Only time will tell. I've got too many iorns in the fire now. Need to finish my scx10 then decide to work on the Jeepster?, The Twin Hammers, or wait for my new Axial Wrangler Wraith.

I'm always watching the ads and have to stop myself from buying the next project before the current one is finished!
Too many toys, not enough time!!

[DaveFL]

What really sucks for me is the r3 tranny I bought, I thought I was going to be ablle to use this mounted under the hood connecting to the Hammer Tcase, but the motor has to face forward, can reverse its mounting point. Even s/w RC4WD if anyone did this and they said as far as they know its not possible due to the size on the sides.

I thought Im going to have to go with a different tranny now, I might put the R3 on the board for sale or trade, really don't need a 2 speed Tranny on it anyway. If my final design works not going to be a very cabable crawler. But Ive seen 2 builds I like so far, so thete is a good chance I may change my midle and really start cutting/welding and brazing and build a nice crawler out of it.

[sweli]

I've been really busy with life lately. Two kids in Little League with 3 games/week and coaching 5-6yr soccer. Whew!

Even got out with my Rusty Toyota 1.9 for some wet spring fun with the local group!

But I managed to get some fabbing done, just not posted.


Back to the winch:
The back of the winch box has a section of aluminum that houses the input shaft bearings.
To fit this into this little 12.5:1 rig, I had to cut a section of the grill out.
This pushes the shaft rearward closer to the R2D2 trans.