Class One Tundra by VMGontheRocks

[rocpede]

Thank you for the help.. I'll be keeping an eye on this build...


Sent from my 2500HD

[VMGontheRocks]

Been slacking a bit on this due to getting trucks ready for comps, breaking said trucks and repairing them.

Made it out to the Central WA comp yesterday and picked up a sweet box of goodies from Ben.



most of it was for another build but there was one item in there for the Tundra

New ToyZuki delrin skid specifically made for ToyZuki frame rails (could easily be modified for a SCX10 chassis, or any other chassis really)



Few details about it
machined out pocket for the ToyZuki transfer case to sit even lower.
has bolt patterns for both ToyZuki transfer case and stock axial transmission case
beveled edges
smooth bottom for sliding over rocks
uses same lower link mounting location as the stock skid

More pics:




And for the weight conscious folks
It weighs .90oz/26g

[VMGontheRocks]

Got the T-Case installed onto the skid last night. Here's a little write-up/tutorial:

Parts needed:
T-Case
ToyZuki Skid
8mm Countersunk bolts QTY 2


I will be mounting to the two holes marked below, I want to get the T-Case as low as possible


Bolting into these two tapped holes in the standoffs of the T-Case


Everything lines up nicely!


Fasteners installed


All ready to be installed onto the chassis! Sits nice and low.

[hotwheels000]

Thats a nice package, the stickers on it are the chit

[fr8cture]

Lucky you. I tried to get a skid off him a week or two ago with no luck.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Thats a nice package, the stickers on it are the chit

It has a couple new additions!

Originally Posted by fr8cture

Lucky you. I tried to get a skid off him a week or two ago with no luck.

He just got them in pretty recently! You'll get yours pretty soon!

Plus, I had to get ahead of you in something on my build

[fr8cture]

Haha I know he posted a pic and I kept asking for a price

[VMGontheRocks]

A quick walk through of installing the new skid.

My chassis and the new skid and the 4 supplied bolts:


Mounts into these two holes:


Double checking to make sure I have the skid with the two holes for the transfer case on the correct side:


Bolts installed, but not all the way to allow me to install my lower links:

[VMGontheRocks]

It's time for links!

I use links from Traxxas vehicles that I pick up on ebay for around $15 shipped:
1 10 Brushless E Revo Tie Rods 5318 Turnbuckle Push Steel Traxxas 5608 | eBay
Nitro Revo 3 3 Tie Rods 5318 Push Rods Turnbuckles Steel 8 Pcs 5309 Traxxas | eBay



I use the short ones for the front lowers and bend the long ones for the rear lowers

I also make links using stand offs and studs from McMaster Carr.

They come in a variety of links. Then between 1/8" and 1/4" spacers and Revo and Jato rod ends I can make just about any length I need.

Studs: McMaster-Carr
Standoffs: McMaster-Carr

Spacers: McMaster-Carr


You could also buy the stainless ones if you wanted. I buy the aluminum ones because they are cheaper and I usually only use them as upper links.
Then they go together pretty easily:

I'm using one Jato rod end and one Revo rod end to get the length right for my mock up rear lower link.


I like to screw the stud into the rod end:



Then I have my two rod ends with studs installed and one stand off (when building links I usually have a bunch of studs preinstalled into rod ends so I can quickly switch between Jato or Revo rod ends)


And the finished product:



I will first make mock-up rear lowers using the mcmaster standoffs and get my wheelbase to where I want it.

Got my wheelbase set at 12.25"




Then I take off the lowers and measure them with my calipers:


Then I put my longer links in the vise, about an inch up from one end. (note that the longer links are turnbuckles and have one rod end reverse threaded)


Then I whack them with a hammer and bend them to the length I need. Checking every so often with the calipers until I get the the same distance eye to eye.




And the finished product:

[SimpleMinded]

Excellent write up man, I have been wondering how to get the bend myself. Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TAT76]

It's looking good. Makes me really want that chassis and all with my future Tundra build..

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by SimpleMinded

Excellent write up man, I have been wondering how to get the bend myself. Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

Originally Posted by TAT76

It's looking good. Makes me really want that chassis and all with my future Tundra build..

Thanks! Slowly getting there. I'd recommend it!

Got a little more done on this:

My rear axle all ready to go:


Rear axle:
SSD D60 Axle housing w/ included 4 link mount
D60 Rock Shield Diff Cover
Vanquish Lock outs
Stock rear shafts
43t/13t Axial unders
Stock locker for now (on the fence about getting lockers or not)

I'm weird and install everything on the chassis first and then install the axle, I think most people do it the other way (or at least the kit tells you to do it the other way).

Installing the lowers onto the skid


Installing the uppers onto the chassis, I'm using the upper most mount:




I'm also using these rod end balls that have a stand off on one side (came with the ebay links)


Here's the location I'm using for my shocks:


Just using stock scx-10 shocks on this build, I think they might have aluminum bodies and they have sweet blue springs (don't ask, I got them like that)
I'm using a stock rod end ball to space the shock off the chassis for now, I might buy some aluminum spacers in the future, but these will work for now:


All installed and ready for the rear axle:



Then I install the uppers first;


And here's the end result:


I'm going to have to relocate the rear chassis brace as it hits the links a bit and prevents full articulation.

[fr8cture]

Slacker.

I build my rigs same way. Damn I need that skid....

[hotwheels000]

Best write up/how to ever

So simple even a caveman could do it

[justinart24]

Mmmmmmm.....ToyZuki!!! Looking good bro!

[fr8cture]

On another note whats the reason for using the highest upper link mount? Im using the lower of the two.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

Slacker.

I build my rigs same way. Damn I need that skid....

I know..

It's pretty nice!

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Best write up/how to ever

So simple even a caveman could do it

Thanks Dev! Calling geico now about possible sponsorship

Originally Posted by justinart24

Mmmmmmm.....ToyZuki!!! Looking good bro!

Thanks Justin!

Originally Posted by fr8cture

On another note whats the reason for using the highest upper link mount? Im using the lower of the two.

For better anti squat, to help with steep climbs

[fr8cture]

I figured just seems like they are already high enough at the lower mount. Maybe its just me.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

I figured just seems like they are already high enough at the lower mount. Maybe its just me.

They are pretty high compared to a stock scx10. I'll try it out and if I find it has too much anti-squat I can always move them down.

[VMGontheRocks]

Haven't been able to make any progress this week :'(

But I did get some stuff in the mail:


Holmes Hobbies for the win! I use both the BR-XL and the Torquemaster in other trucks and really like them!

The fact that you can use the castle link to program is icing on the cake!

The mini br-xl's are light! Same with the 400 motor (about 2 ounces less than a 35t I had laying around).

I'll be using one mini br as my main speed controller and one mini br as my winch controller (I want to be able to spool out really quickly but control how fast I pull in).