Class One Tundra by VMGontheRocks

[VMGontheRocks]

Was moving my transfer case from one table to another and said to myself this feels awfully heavy. Decided to open it up and weigh the one piece robinson output:


It's a heavy sucker.

Justin was nice enough to hook me up with one of the robinson output gears (non one piece) and I had an extra set of hardened Axial output shafts.





Much better!

Also, got the puller motor mounted up:


Starting at 56T/11T (32 pitch gears) and seeing how that works.

Another shot to show off the awesome parts!


With my gearing and the smaller motor, there is a decent amount of the motor plate sitting below the motor.


Area marked with a silver sharpie.


Now it's time to take it apart and break out the dremel.

[hotwheels000]

Good call on the output gear, I have been running a similar combo in all my rigs. Rotating mass breaks parts.

they associated gt gear works also with the outputs of your choice.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Good call on the output gear, I have been running a similar combo in all my rigs. Rotating mass breaks parts.

they associated gt gear works also with the outputs of your choice.

Got a p/n for the associated gt gear?

EDIT: AX31410 is a drop in top shaft.

Update:
Since I was using a super shafty mini top shaft for a split skid and I want that for my split skid, I decided to look at some alternative top shaft options that are plug and play (no cutting required)

First option was AX31134 which is a 2-speed output shaft but looked like it could work as a top shaft.

Note, you want to assemble it so that the hole pointed out by the arrow is what you attach your drive shaft to.

Parts ready for assembly:


Hole that you will attach drive shaft:


Assembled shaft:


Still doesn't clear a MIP or WB8 shaft, but it does clear the older style Axial drivelines:


And assembled:


Second option was AX30408 which is an Axial Input Shaft but looked mighty similar to the supershafty mini shaft.
NOTE: This shaft has a slightly larger hole in it than the stock transmission top shaft. Once assembled it is barely noticeable. But if you don't want any slop, then i recommend cutting down a second top shaft.




Parts ready for assembly:


Note, you have to put both O-Rings on the back side of the top gear to space it out enough for the drive shaft to attach to:


This will work with both the MIP (needs to be the 3mm grub screw ones) and the WB8 shaft, as well as the older Axial drivelines:




Assembled with a MIP shaft:


Assembled with a WB8 shaft:


Here's what the offset looks like:

[VMGontheRocks]

Time to link the front!

I'll be running a 3 link and panhard bar set up. I am using the SSD panhard axle mount and the ToyZuki panhard chassis mount.

A shot of the front axle:


-SSD Housing
-SSD Black Aluminum Diff cover
-VP C-Hubs
-VP Wraith Knuckles
-Axial XR10 Universals cut down
-36t/14t overs
-stock locker

Upper link on top and panhard bar on bottom


ToyZuki chassis side panhard mount
(I had this laying around from an old CMS kit I got from ToyZuki)


Ben (ToyZuki) has countersunk the two holes where the panhard mount attaches, which allows for a nice and clean installation.


How it all attachs:


And installed:


I will be using this location to mount my upper link:


Installed:





Then I attached the panhard bar to the chassis and then to the axle:


Then I hooked up the upper link to the axle and then the lower links and shocks:

[hotwheels000]

Moving along fast, I thought this was going to be a slow build. You will be on the rocks in no time.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by hotwheels000

Moving along fast, I thought this was going to be a slow build. You will be on the rocks in no time.

Haha, I spent a decent amount of time working on it this week. Trying to get it to a roller so I can mount the body and start on the bed and bumpers.

[VMGontheRocks]

Decided to throw on some electronics as well to get a feel for how long my drag link needs to be.

As of right now I'll be using a Holmes Hobbies for my steering servo (it's a little heavy due to the aluminum case and I might decided to switch it with a Hitec on another truck)


KMS K3 winch, this is my first KMS winch and my first impression is I really like it. Compact and tons of winch line fits on the spool!


I attached these servo mount cross members earlier in the build but after looking at it, I decided to take them off and install the steering servo and winch to the cross members and the mount them back onto the chassis.


The steering servo goes on the outside edge of the cross member and mounts to the bottom (square corner edge):


Then the winch goes into the middle and to the top of the cross member:


I used 3x8mm pan head screws and 3mm washers.

And installed back onto the truck:


Here's another pic showing how much extra space you have off on the other side:


I plan to mount some if not all of my electronics in that area (I'll probably make a small styrene box to provide some protection for the electronics).

[VMGontheRocks]

Went to put my drivelines on and realized I still hadn't put my under drive gears in.




Took off the diff cover:


Pulled the stock gears out:


I always make a mess when playing with diff gears:


Under-drive gears installed and diff cover re-installed:

[KMS]

Nice build so far ,,You might know this,,but,, its worth mention-in again ,Tie the hook on the line after getting the radio set to the winch ,,been have-n a few problems with motors smoking on new winches ,,Thank you Robert ,,
Merry Christmas everyone ,,,

[Highmark]

Very nice build. I'll be curious to hear your impressions of the puller 400 compared the the 500. I have a 500 set aside for a scaler now but the 400 looks really nice.

[hotwheels000]

Originally Posted by Highmark

Very nice build. I'll be curious to hear your impressions of the puller 400 compared the the 500. I have a 500 set aside for a scaler now but the 400 looks really nice.

You will like the 400 Jon, its been in my rig for a long while now and I have zero complaints. Smaller and lighter no complaints in the torque or speed dept.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by KMS

Nice build so far ,,You might know this,,but,, its worth mention-in again ,Tie the hook on the line after getting the radio set to the winch ,,been have-n a few problems with motors smoking on new winches ,,Thank you Robert ,,
Merry Christmas everyone ,,,

Thanks! Yes I am aware of that, I'll make sure to mention that when I finally do attach my winch hook!

Originally Posted by Highmark

Very nice build. I'll be curious to hear your impressions of the puller 400 compared the the 500. I have a 500 set aside for a scaler now but the 400 looks really nice.

Thanks! I've never actually run a 500, I bought the 400 because Devlin recommended it.

[VMGontheRocks]

Put the transfer case back on with the new top shaft:


Decided to put the drive lines on as well now that axles were all set and ready to go. I'm using the SCX10 12.3" WB drivelines from MIP:


The one with the extended output will be going in the rear.

And drive lines installed:


Decided to throw the body on there and see how it looked:


Grrrrr, the body can't move any further back because the back of the grill hits the servo case. The picture above makes it look like the front axle is really far back, but in reality it's maybe 3/8". Looks like I need to redo the front links.

[VMGontheRocks]

I went with DCW Wheels for a couple of reasons:

• Lightweight

• custom offset

• reasonably priced

All packaged up:


A shot of them out of the bag, pics don't do these wheels justice. Excellent machining and a really nice looking wheel!


Weight in ounces:


Weight in grams:


Couple more pictures of the wheels!




I'll be using Pitbull 1.55 Growlers with CI Foams (Medium in the front, Firm in the rear)


The front tires and foams before I took them out of the packaging:


My rings hadn't arrived yet so I was using some Axial rings for mockup


The stock foam before it gets tossed in the foam box


CI inner closed cell, perfect fit:


I guess I was camera shy, here's the wheel mounted up:


This is with .185 hubs and narrow hexes. I don't think this is going to work.. Rod ends rub really badly




Welp, I guess the XR mod in C1 isn't going to work for this truck. Time to order VVDs and some hi-steer knuckles. I decided to go with the axial hi-steer knuckles because the VP 8* knuckles also have some rubbing issues with narrow offset hubs.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Would narrowing the wheels be an option? How badly do they rub?

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Would narrowing the wheels be an option? How badly do they rub?

Potentially, maybe if they were .750 or even .700 wide.

They rubbed enough to where I felt it would rip the sidewall. I don't have the hubs anymore (gave them back to Justin) but if I did I'd remount them and take a video. Maybe I'll grab them from him again and try.

I basically decided I didn't want to exert the energy trying to make it work and just bought VVDs and Axial Hi-Steer knuckles.

[Duuuuuuuude]

If you want them narrowed I can do it for you. I don't know that it would help much since it's the tire that's making contact...

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

If you want them narrowed I can do it for you. I don't know that it would help much since it's the tire that's making contact...

Maybe for the next build I do! I got them all mounted up and don't want to take them all apart again lol

I think it probably would work, as even though it's the tire rubbing, it would be narrower and therefore the tire would be further away from the Ackerman arm and rod end.

[VMGontheRocks]

My package from Locked Up arrived!


Rings and wheels laid out!


Picked up their scale hardware as well.


I like to put the short screws into a old RX or Servo case while I install them.


I'm using a 2mm hex driver to install these, you can get one from Locked up as well or make your own with a pan head screw, nut and a nut driver




One in!


A few more in!


I preload the nut driver with the bolt and then pick up the ring and install. This is what I found easiest for me.


And one is done! Quick sneak at what it will look like.

[seychelles]

Nice works my friend...
0,7" channel will helps you definitively with your tyres rubbin