RCCrawler Forums

trickedoutTLT06 · 07-09-2006, 02:00 PM

holy crap, Ummmmmmmmmm..............................Uhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

THATS FUNKIN SWEET DUDE!!!

BrandO · 07-09-2006, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unimoger

looks really good BrandO, I have the same rims and I double narrowed mine and bent the lower links in a bit to give more clearence.

I can fix the link clearance pretty easy by moving the links in on the chassis. The bigger issue is the shocks. If I had some turned down stockers I would be all set. Or possibly some Losi shocks with internal springs. I tried moving the ones I have around. They are just to big and bulky and always seem to hit on something.

4stAir · 07-09-2006, 03:19 PM

i narrowed those wheels down to 1.25 and that gave me enough clearance on my chassis... granted your is a different design...

microgoat · 07-09-2006, 03:21 PM

A backside-narrow should be all you need with Moabs, but the Mashers' wider tread likes to rub everything. I had the same issue with my Swamp Dawgs and ended up with wideners in the front (but my rims are goofy homebrews, and this was on OG Buster with vertical shocks).

Another trick you can try is moving the links from the center of the bracket to the inside, and using an extra-long screw to hold it in place. It moves the link in for more clearance while maintaining strength. Use an extra ball as a spacer.

Try narrowing the Mashers, they look great with a half inch cut out of them

BrandO · 07-09-2006, 03:27 PM

well, here is another option. This way everything clears. And most important I maintain my narrow track width. It's not the most scale looking setup. But she sure seems to flex a little better this way. Time will tell how it performs. I just worry about the dreaded torque twist with the shocks inboard. I guess we will have to wait and see.

rockschooler · 07-09-2006, 03:32 PM

looks good to me! sweet build

HaPtOAD · 07-09-2006, 03:44 PM

Looking good. Looks like the spring rubs the servo in the pic, might not really hurt anything though. Can't wait to see it done, but what ever you do its going to look good.

BrandO · 07-09-2006, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HaPtOAD

Looking good. Looks like the spring rubs the servo in the pic, might not really hurt anything though. Can't wait to see it done, but what ever you do its going to look good.

The spring doesn't hit the servo. In the pic it is hitting the wiring harness. It's because of the way I have the wire wrapped around the servo. I think it should be ok once I get the wires tied out of the way.

microgoat · 07-09-2006, 05:03 PM

Similar to OG's inboard setup on the rear. You'll be fine with it.

Unimoger · 07-10-2006, 09:03 AM

I agree, I think it will work well, just make sure to put thicker oil and preload the left rear shock.

microgoat · 07-12-2006, 07:03 PM

I can't wait to see the tube work. What's a BrandO build without tube?

smokinubyrc · 07-12-2006, 07:22 PM

ive never seen one with out it

EMUTT · 07-12-2006, 09:08 PM

So well we see this one on the 22nd?I sure hope so

Hey are you waterproofing the truck?

slobin3d · 07-12-2006, 09:49 PM

whats the width of the rails?

rockschooler · 07-12-2006, 09:57 PM

looks good i want to see it finished

Unimoger · 07-13-2006, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slobin3d

whats the width of the rails?

should be about 3" I believe.

BrandO · 07-13-2006, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unimoger

should be about 3" I believe.

Yup between the frame rails is 3". The outside width is 3.375.

slobin3d · 07-13-2006, 04:21 PM

i was wondering about thickness of the aluminum stock the rails are made of:-P

Unimoger · 07-13-2006, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slobin3d

i was wondering about thickness of the aluminum stock the rails are made of:-P

1/4" x 1/4" 6061 aluminum.

slobin3d · 07-13-2006, 04:25 PM

thank you

07-09-2006, 02:00 PM	#21
trickedoutTLT06 RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Aroostook county Posts: 1,271	holy crap, Ummmmmmmmmm..............................Uhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh THATS FUNKIN SWEET DUDE!!! Last edited by TwistedXT; 12-18-2006 at 08:42 AM.

07-09-2006, 03:21 PM	#24
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	A backside-narrow should be all you need with Moabs, but the Mashers' wider tread likes to rub everything. I had the same issue with my Swamp Dawgs and ended up with wideners in the front (but my rims are goofy homebrews, and this was on OG Buster with vertical shocks). Another trick you can try is moving the links from the center of the bracket to the inside, and using an extra-long screw to hold it in place. It moves the link in for more clearance while maintaining strength. Use an extra ball as a spacer. Try narrowing the Mashers, they look great with a half inch cut out of them Last edited by microgoat; 07-09-2006 at 03:24 PM.

07-09-2006, 03:19 PM	#23
4stAir RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: The Amish Ghetto Posts: 1,932	i narrowed those wheels down to 1.25 and that gave me enough clearance on my chassis... granted your is a different design...

07-09-2006, 03:27 PM	#25
BrandO Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 560	well, here is another option. This way everything clears. And most important I maintain my narrow track width. It's not the most scale looking setup. But she sure seems to flex a little better this way. Time will tell how it performs. I just worry about the dreaded torque twist with the shocks inboard. I guess we will have to wait and see.

07-09-2006, 03:32 PM	#26
rockschooler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: BUILDING A CSC-1 in south mississippi Posts: 282	looks good to me! sweet build

07-09-2006, 03:44 PM	#27
HaPtOAD Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Rockwell, NC Posts: 131	Looking good. Looks like the spring rubs the servo in the pic, might not really hurt anything though. Can't wait to see it done, but what ever you do its going to look good.

07-09-2006, 05:03 PM	#29
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	Similar to OG's inboard setup on the rear. You'll be fine with it.

07-10-2006, 09:03 AM	#30
Unimoger I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: G6'N Posts: 7,391	I agree, I think it will work well, just make sure to put thicker oil and preload the left rear shock.

07-12-2006, 07:03 PM	#31
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	I can't wait to see the tube work. What's a BrandO build without tube?

07-12-2006, 07:22 PM	#32
smokinubyrc I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Crawler practice! Posts: 2,104	ive never seen one with out it

07-12-2006, 09:08 PM	#33
EMUTT Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Benson,NC Posts: 761	So well we see this one on the 22nd?I sure hope so Hey are you waterproofing the truck?

07-12-2006, 09:49 PM	#34
slobin3d I'm a stupid C U N T! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: In the Garage! Posts: 4,307	whats the width of the rails?

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07-12-2006, 09:57 PM	#35
rockschooler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: BUILDING A CSC-1 in south mississippi Posts: 282	looks good i want to see it finished

07-13-2006, 04:21 PM	#38
slobin3d I'm a stupid C U N T! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: In the Garage! Posts: 4,307	i was wondering about thickness of the aluminum stock the rails are made of:-P

07-13-2006, 04:25 PM	#40
slobin3d I'm a stupid C U N T! Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: In the Garage! Posts: 4,307	thank you

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