*REVISED* gunnar beef toob install

[Duuuuuuuude]

I found that by the time I had everything in place, there was no room for actual pushrods, just rod ends butted up against each other. Also, by keeping the assembly high and as close to the axle centerline as possible, you'll have no need for bent anything...it all should fit around the shock with no problem.

I hope to start on my version real soon, so I'll keep you updated if you'd like.

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

I found that by the time I had everything in place, there was no room for actual pushrods, just rod ends butted up against each other. Also, by keeping the assembly high and as close to the axle centerline as possible, you'll have no need for bent anything...it all should fit around the shock with no problem.

I hope to start on my version real soon, so I'll keep you updated if you'd like.

Oh, I do not intend to use bent pushrods to "clear" anything. They are merely to reach down and get the stupidly far away knuckle, which is angled at +25 degrees of caster. That arm is way the hell down there. Keep in mind, I am doing this all BTA, so the further the caster clock, the longer the push rod.

Im sure my pics will be clear once I post them in or around the weekend.

For sure, keep me in the loop on what you come up with.

Casey

[cliffhanger007]

i installed mine tubes by dremeling the inside of a axle and that's it just screwed 3mm screw through axial hub and attached to the tube did needed to do any drilling what so ever.
Worked for me so far just mine 0.02 c.

[KC_JoNeS]

Chris, your ideas and your pic have given me an idea for the drag link and a better mounting method for the push rods. This is what I will make to start with.

[stewbaru]

Casey,

To extend Du..ude's concept of fuel tube to remove the slope?

You could, since you are using Ti rod, slot the rod or introduce a keyway and dowel or pin the rod into a fixed axis of movement.

If you slot it, you could use long threaded pin (CR01 Drive pin say) and have two points of location. "Keyed', you could have a shallow, wide key and limit rotation but still get good purchase.

Or mill a flat on the rod and introduce a wide, flat-ended grub screw to hold it all in place....

Can sketch for you if you need (but I reckon your gettin' it hey?)

[KC_JoNeS]

Well, I will not take that route at first...my design will be a bit different than Duuuuude's. His push rods are much shorter than mine, and they are much closer to the axis of travel of the tie rod. My push rods will extend down and away...so, I do not know where I would even want to put any keyway yet. It is all just academic at this point.

I will have a clear understanding of where to go after this weekend of fab.

Casey

[stewbaru]

.
Either way, I look forward to the next rendering.
.

[KC_JoNeS]

In fact, this is most likely the angle at which the tie rod will be sitting. The push rods will extend down at a steep angle to the high steer arms of the knuckles.

[Caustic101]

will the tubes fit in the rear with lockouts and not the Cs?

[Highlucks]

Yes they can be used in both axles.

[Mr. crawl]

Lookin tits Casey,gonna wait on a bta set up til you make this one available.

Was pondering on the Ti link rotating,maybe marked degree splines? Or hex so you can set the bta link to a specified degree marking on the delrin slide block?

May be retarted ideas I dunno.

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Mr. crawl

Lookin tits Casey,gonna wait on a bta set up til you make this one available.

Was pondering on the Ti link rotating,maybe marked degree splines? Or hex so you can set the bta link to a specified degree marking on the delrin slide block?

May be retarted ideas I dunno.

I am really liking that HEX idea. I will look into that more.

[kliff_klimber]

What is the clocking i am getting ready to install my beef toobs and just want to make sure i do it the right way the first time!

[gunnar]

If you have to ask, then you better stick with the stock install.

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by xr10utah801

What is the clocking i am getting ready to install my beef toobs and just want to make sure i do it the right way the first time!

In this case...I agree with Scott. Stick to the normal install, and when you get a better idea, go for it. Since you will be using the Poison Dart, and you will try to keep your front end low, the clocking is almost not necessary. Your front caster angle will be good already.

Casey

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by gunnar

If you have to ask, then you better stick with the stock install.

X2

You can always go back and reclock them once you've got a better grasp of what is going on. Clocking is not a simple one step process.

[j-bird]

hey man i just bought the 8* vp chubs and knuckles..will i have any issues if i order 2sets..also im still running stock cvd's ..will you help me with this issue because i really need to get these toobs to help finish my build i will b buying 300's later down the road but funds are tight right now...thanks please help

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by j-bird

hey man i just bought the 8* vp chubs and knuckles..will i have any issues if i order 2sets..also im still running stock cvd's ..will you help me with this issue because i really need to get these toobs to help finish my build i will b buying 300's later down the road but funds are tight right now...thanks please help

I think you should be fine. I saw one guy use the stock dog bones, and he just shaved off the lip that secures the shaft to the inner most bearings. He was good to go after that.

Should be no issue mate.

Casey

[jeeper_05]

Just got my order of Toobs, and are the tapped holes done by machine? They dont line up with eachother at all and makes the top part of the case open and the bottom closed. Looks like someone eyeballed drilling them. I can get pics if need be...

[gunnar]

Originally Posted by jeeper_05

Just got my order of Toobs, and are the tapped holes done by machine? They dont line up with eachother at all and makes the top part of the case open and the bottom closed. Looks like someone eyeballed drilling them. I can get pics if need be...

A few questions:

Are you doing a standard install, or clocking?

Using plactic C's or alum?

Generally, the C surrounds the ends of the housing and holds it in place. If the holes were so far off, then it would be pretty tough to bolt the C in, the holes would not line up.

Where is the spreading of the housings occuring, right next to the C?

If you have a 5/64" drill bit, or a piece of rod that will fit in the holes, post up a pic of that, so we can see how far off they are.

I usually check over each toob before shipping, but a few times I'm in a hurry, so I don't inspect each hole thouroghly.