Krazed Builds un-Stuck line into 2.2S

[Robbob]

So we been quiet lately with the crawler parts and been playing in the racing world but spring is coming and we've got some fun things coming out in the next month. For starters we nailed down our entry into the 2.2S class for chassis' and are excited about this one.

Lemme start by giving some tech on the first of three testers so far ..... our own rig. Im starting this build with what I have around, basically I will say this is not gonna be one of my normal feathers to start lol. But thats not to say it wont go in that direction as I test and tune with her. For now I have more parts coming but wanted to get her standing and playing indoors with in the next couple weeks.


Axial AX10 axle -
Front 36/14 gear
Beef Tubes with XR steering and axle swap
desTroy front axle plate
VP Locker
VP lower Ti links
Solid CF rod upper links
MIP front drive shaft

Rear 43/13 gear
Beef Tubes with Creeperbob Ti axles giving an XR width
Krazed Builds upper link mount
MIP rear drive shaft
VP lockers
VP lower Ti links
Solid CF rod upper links

SCX Shocks
Ti shock shafts
37.5wt front - 30wt rear oils
3 oring swap for leaking - Traxxas mini revo bladder

Electronics
Airtronics MT4 rx
Castle micro sidewinder
Motor - TBD but for now Crawlmaster 16t
3S lipo
Hitec 7950 servo
Castle BEC (yes you need a BEC)

Chassis -
Krazed Builds CF un-Stuck with delrin skid

Tires and foams
Rovers with Crawler Innovation foams (what else works this good)

Wheels
Something new coming soon

Transmission
AX10 with 32p spur
Robinson locker (damn that thing is heavy)


So now some pictures to get you looky people going ...... Testers are getting their chassis' this week and we cant wait to see the builds and hear reviews and changes.

[Almighty Malach]

Nice and simple. Any way to align the upper link holes in a more vertical fashion so that you don't have to change link lengths to change squat characteristics?

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Almighty Malach

Nice and simple. Any way to align the upper link holes in a more vertical fashion so that you don't have to change link lengths to change squat characteristics?

Thanks Casey.

Thats what I love about this site ... getting input.

I can do the rears with out crowding the motor. The front are on a bit of a radius to the nose so its minimal effect but Ill look at them too.

[Solitaire]

Not sure how weight conscious you are, but as rugged MIP shafts are, there are other lighter options that work very well in a shafty. Also, on the weight discussion, HR makes alum tranny gears which have held up well in a couple of my builds.

[Stuck]

Looks awesome Rob. Eager to see how you like it. Cant wait for mine. USPS says Wednesday I get to start building.

[EverettY]

Love it! Like Casey said very clean and simple... I vote for the SDI driveshafts if you change from the MIP's at all... They're strong and very small diameter so you get the best clearance in the rear...

[blandon]

Great looking chassis!

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Solitaire

Not sure how weight conscious you are, but as rugged MIP shafts are, there are other lighter options that work very well in a shafty. Also, on the weight discussion, HR makes alum tranny gears which have held up well in a couple of my builds.

Originally Posted by EverettY

Love it! Like Casey said very clean and simple... I vote for the SDI driveshafts if you change from the MIP's at all... They're strong and very small diameter so you get the best clearance in the rear...

Def SDI shafts are planned for the clearance and weight points of them. Didn't know about the HR and aluminum gears though, will look into those.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Stuck

Looks awesome Rob. Eager to see how you like it. Cant wait for mine. USPS says Wednesday I get to start building.

Thanks - Hopefully by next week Ill have it rolling on our indoor course at my local shop. Cant wait to see yours going together.

Originally Posted by blandon

Great looking chassis!

Thanks - I just made it pretty with cf . Had to find something to keep up with what you built.

[Crawllife]

Looks great bud. Hope to see you at the qualifier again this year. It was great Wheeling with you last year!

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Crawllife

Looks great bud. Hope to see you at the qualifier again this year. It was great Wheeling with you last year!

There and the cash comp too

[winnerone23]

Meh... It'll never work! (With you driving it) in less words.. ur #

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Meh... It'll never work! (With you driving it) in less words.. ur #

ME .... Drive? pffft its over rated. Im just trying to make it look good

[winnerone23]

Originally Posted by Robbob

ME .... Drive? pffft its over rated. Im just trying to make it look good

by all means, continue on... Cause you killing it bro!

[Robbob]

So what do you do while you wait for parts ....... lets lose some weight and visit our little lathe. Plus it being in the negative temps outside the indoors sounds a bit better.

So heres the rear axle as it sits from building the truck. I knew things were gonna get light but was waiting till I got some run time on her. Needless to say Ive been slacking on the real rocks but was bored today.

So ....



First thing to do was slim up the axle tubes ... from steel




To some 7075 aluminum



Now we're on the right path. Next was the locker and rear gear. The truck I got last year had a Hot Racing 43T gear and Vp locker in it. Like the locker a lot but its heavy and the rear had a bad notchy feeling to it. So out came the HR gears and in went the right gears, true Axial 43T combo. going on the lighter side I went with the HR locker though. Big weight difference for the rear.

HR gear w/ Vp Locker



Axial gear with the HR locker



And dont forget adjusting your gear lash .....



Smooth as buttah

So all back together I came in with a big savings.



Before all this the truck was sitting just over 4lbs ...... with just one axle down





So thats it for todays me work but still got another axle left to do and about 200grams to dig off this little thing.

[Robbob]

So finally got some practice in for myself with the un-Stuck and have to say very impressed off the start. Still had some snow on the ground but hit up my local spot I know well. It lets me gauge against what my pro rig does there and helps me towards tuning.

From my basic setup I was plowing front tires and rolling them over. It climbed well but got tippy when vertical and didnt like to drop the front down on break overs.

First I changed the rear upper links to the top hole. This showed me less pressure on the front tires. They did roll onto the side walls so much when turning and driving. I was able to steer more consistent and the front was freed up a bit.

I was still bad on down hills and drop offs - rear end would come right over the front. I put the front upper links in their top hole. This let the truck keep the rear down a bit more. The one spot I really noticed it was side hill. It felt like the rear planted flat a bit better. That and the fronts not rolling over it looked better.

Rear still felt stiff though, not free like floppy. It was about 50* when I practiced so oils a little thicker but I knew it wasnt just that. Im running 42.5wt in the back now and 40wt in the front for oils.

Two things I knew ..... the oils too thick so gonna drop down to 35 front and 37.5 rear. Other thing was the rear upper links at the axle are cranked against the balls. With the axle rolled so far back for clearance I felt I was binding up the links.

So one change for now ..... switched from



To the axial bent ones


Much better, it actually let me feel that the oil is def too heavy for a light rig and my driving. I like floppy

And some pimppin shots


















And a shot with the adjusted upper link holes - testers are getting their CF chassis this week. More to come once we hear from them.


Thanks for looking

[barrybelvedere]

I tried that once with thoes type of axial bent rod ends before in that spot....I think the bent rod ends are junk. Mix is bad an so is the fact that it deflects the energy into the the rodend. i broke it on a little fall so....

[nerby149]

Would it be better to go back to the straight ends and put the links on the bottom side of the plate, cause I have had same problem.as Barry with breaking the axial bent ones.

"GOD SPEED"

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by barrybelvedere

I tried that once with thoes type of axial bent rod ends before in that spot....I think the bent rod ends are junk. Mix is bad an so is the fact that it deflects the energy into the the rodend. i broke it on a little fall so....

Thats my concern too, the plastic is softer on the Axial ones. Im wondering if a lighter truck through would be more forgiving.

Originally Posted by nerby149

Would it be better to go back to the straight ends and put the links on the bottom side of the plate, cause I have had same problem.as Barry with breaking the axial bent ones.

"GOD SPEED"

Still gonna be jacked at the angle. If I break them I may roll the axle back down some since the losi shaft is smaller.

[Robbob]

So what do we do while our testers are beating the rags out of our parts?

We sit down and work another platform into the dynamics ........ more to come on this animal

[Highlucks]

Interesting rear drive shaft.
If you want to try another avenue for the bent rod ends look at those from the Losi range. they are a very stout option and can even be drilled to M4 or 3/16"

If you want to shed a bunch of weight from the rear and maintain the current width. Use wraith lockouts and make some special Ti axles to suit, this will provide the same width as an XR10 modified front end. I found even with my heavier than most driving style that tubes are not required in the rear axle.