06-21-2010, 11:29 AM | #21 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Scotts Valley
Posts: 116
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How does it perform? Those lower mounts ok? |
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06-21-2010, 01:24 PM | #22 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Escondido
Posts: 66
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so wat are the gains beside more articulation from doin the inboard suspension?
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06-21-2010, 01:35 PM | #23 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Scotts Valley
Posts: 116
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06-21-2010, 03:56 PM | #24 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 536
| Seems to perform really well and keeps the rear planted a lil better but it unloads hard when the truck reaches its tipping point. The lower mounts are doing fine. I would like to have them spaced out a lil less but that would require more brackets so Im fine with how it is for now. And yeah the biggest benefit is being able to do a dropbed or flatbed.
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01-17-2011, 08:17 PM | #25 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: armstrong
Posts: 260
| sweet
that is pretty sweet you got it to twist alot more
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01-17-2011, 08:57 PM | #26 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Salmon Arm BC
Posts: 1,777
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01-17-2011, 09:23 PM | #27 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: armstrong
Posts: 260
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ohya those chains worked pretty good in the snow the other day
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01-17-2011, 09:25 PM | #28 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Clinton,Michigan
Posts: 908
| this is first I have heard of this mod. u got any pics or links as to show exactly which way you mounted them. rod ends angled up or down???
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01-17-2011, 09:50 PM | #29 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 667
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I mounted my steering servo on to the frame for pretty cheap with a couple of screws/spacers, stock servo on axle mount, and links. It took some tinkering to make it work to my liking but it works alright. The hardest part with this mod for me was to make it work with Axial behind the axle steering and Vanquish high steer. Here are some pics to better explain this. |
01-17-2011, 10:24 PM | #30 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Denver
Posts: 591
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So, those of you that moved your receiver box to the back for the gas tank look, did you have to extend any of your wiring or is the stock wiring long enough without extending anything?
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01-17-2011, 10:29 PM | #31 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
| I had to extend mine by at least a couple inches...I also left a little extra in the RX box so that the wires weren't taught.
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01-18-2011, 03:31 AM | #32 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Russia
Posts: 87
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is servo chassis mount much better than axial one?
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01-18-2011, 03:45 AM | #33 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Eugene
Posts: 37
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Great idea for a thread. A mod thread like this will be very benefiting in the future. Good work everyone.
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01-18-2011, 08:15 AM | #34 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2010 Location: The heart of the south
Posts: 1,138
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I like the rocks, mine has Pro-Line TSLs weighted front and rear with UnderDrive rear Gears. All my weight is forward on a plate I made with some cheap plastic and a frame mounted server using the stock servo mount drilled and bolted to the frame rail. Running gear is a Goat 3S 17.5 on a 2200 MHr 30C LiPo with a Castle BEC at 6V and a Hitec HS 5645 and I am using a Traxxas Stampede electronics box for the receiver. Not free, but you can make the same move with the electronics, the battery and the servo for free. |
01-19-2011, 07:15 PM | #35 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Upstairs, Canada
Posts: 72
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Hi all! This is my first post. I'm new to crawling, but not new to RC. I race 1/8 scale, but with the arrival of a new baby, my racing schedule will take a beating! Decided that scale crawling will be my next venture so my brother and I ordered up a couple of RTR Trail Honchos As I sit here and wait for the mailman, I decided to check out this forum, and I'm glad I did. This is a great thread, with so many helpful tips. I hope I can one day contribute something useful around here |
01-19-2011, 08:01 PM | #36 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks
Posts: 1,980
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Remove the shock towers anddrill two holes in the bed directly over the rear crossmember and drilled holes in the rear crossmember Note that when you do this you will need to cut out to allow the tranny and motor to stick through the bed some as the tranny is taller than the rear of the frame. Itll be easy to cover with a toolbox, spare tire etc. Now to mount the front part of the bed i found some steel L brackets at lowes and drilled holes on both sides of the bed. To make shure they dont come loose i used 6-32 bolts and locknuts. To mount the lower part of the bracket to the frame i found the longer self threading screws from the kit and simply screwed them into the existing holes As shown in the first pic, you will either angle your stock shocks inward on the frame or use some shorter shocks. I have it set up now with some from a mrc which give it a level ride hight with the stock shocks in the front I would classify this as a "cheap" mod besides you might have all the hardware laying around Hope this helps | |
01-20-2011, 02:56 PM | #37 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Lodi
Posts: 345
| The first picture shows a few of my hand made scale accessories including an ax. The second pic shows my hand made sledge hammer made from a wooden dowel and a screwdriver bit with the tip cut off and ground smooth. Most of my scale accessories were made by hand using random items I had just Laying around the house. If anybody is interested in the items shown here just send me a message. Hope this useful for you guys! |
01-26-2011, 08:37 PM | #38 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: America
Posts: 607
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ok so i like the scale looks of the inward suspension mod on the rear but if i use the stock shocks then wont that make the rear sit up alot more than the front
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01-28-2011, 08:27 PM | #39 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: North Charleston
Posts: 408
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i lost some of the hardware to my battery tray, so when i went to crawl with a friend of mine today (creeping king) and since i was using a small lipo, i decided to try a different mounting idea. basically i removed the top of the electronics box, and creeping cut 2 slots in the top, from that we just ran a velcro tie through and wrapped the battery. |
01-29-2011, 07:48 AM | #40 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: norfolk
Posts: 705
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Here is what I did...1st I did the cutting of the spacers to lower the battery tray (already mentioned). Then I cut a space out of the Battery Tray front chassis brace piece. This piece is not really doing anything but holding the front battery tray screw. I cut a slot out (it is still very rigid when placed back in the frame) for the screw on the servo arm to travel up through. With this battery set up I have max travel the upper steering arm hits the frame which I am not too worried about they slide on each other when turning. Anyway it was free and gives me good flex with the stock set up. |
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