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Old 06-21-2010, 11:29 AM   #21
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How does it perform? Those lower mounts ok?
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:24 PM   #22
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so wat are the gains beside more articulation from doin the inboard suspension?
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallensk8man89 View Post
so wat are the gains beside more articulation from doin the inboard suspension?
My goal is for lowering a flatbed as close to the frame as I can. I expect no suspension improvement from doing this.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:56 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 2Dogs View Post
How does it perform? Those lower mounts ok?
Seems to perform really well and keeps the rear planted a lil better but it unloads hard when the truck reaches its tipping point. The lower mounts are doing fine. I would like to have them spaced out a lil less but that would require more brackets so Im fine with how it is for now. And yeah the biggest benefit is being able to do a dropbed or flatbed.
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:17 PM   #25
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that is pretty sweet you got it to twist alot more
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:57 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 9700trevor View Post
I like what you did that is awesome job on getting the truck to twist
ya its pretty sweet. damn i want some 2.2 boggers!!!!! took my chains off so i can run in the house without tearing shit up haha
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:23 PM   #27
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ohya those chains worked pretty good in the snow the other day
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500hdon37s View Post
if you got a honcho, you can lower the battery tray by cuting the spacers that hold up the tray, weight the wheels, take the bump stops out of the shocks, and use the angled up rod ends on lower links
this is first I have heard of this mod. u got any pics or links as to show exactly which way you mounted them. rod ends angled up or down???
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:50 PM   #29
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I mounted my steering servo on to the frame for pretty cheap with a couple of screws/spacers, stock servo on axle mount, and links. It took some tinkering to make it work to my liking but it works alright. The hardest part with this mod for me was to make it work with Axial behind the axle steering and Vanquish high steer. Here are some pics to better explain this.






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Old 01-17-2011, 10:24 PM   #30
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So, those of you that moved your receiver box to the back for the gas tank look, did you have to extend any of your wiring or is the stock wiring long enough without extending anything?
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:29 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 View Post
So, those of you that moved your receiver box to the back for the gas tank look, did you have to extend any of your wiring or is the stock wiring long enough without extending anything?
I had to extend mine by at least a couple inches...I also left a little extra in the RX box so that the wires weren't taught.
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:31 AM   #32
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is servo chassis mount much better than axial one?
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:45 AM   #33
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Great idea for a thread. A mod thread like this will be very benefiting in the future. Good work everyone.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:15 AM   #34
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I like the rocks, mine has Pro-Line TSLs weighted front and rear with UnderDrive rear Gears. All my weight is forward on a plate I made with some cheap plastic and a frame mounted server using the stock servo mount drilled and bolted to the frame rail. Running gear is a Goat 3S 17.5 on a 2200 MHr 30C LiPo with a Castle BEC at 6V and a Hitec HS 5645 and I am using a Traxxas Stampede electronics box for the receiver.

Not free, but you can make the same move with the electronics, the battery and the servo for free.



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Old 01-19-2011, 07:15 PM   #35
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Hi all! This is my first post. I'm new to crawling, but not new to RC. I race 1/8 scale, but with the arrival of a new baby, my racing schedule will take a beating!

Decided that scale crawling will be my next venture so my brother and I ordered up a couple of RTR Trail Honchos As I sit here and wait for the mailman, I decided to check out this forum, and I'm glad I did. This is a great thread, with so many helpful tips. I hope I can one day contribute something useful around here
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:01 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Dogs View Post
My goal is for lowering a flatbed as close to the frame as I can. I expect no suspension improvement from doing this.
heres how i mounted my flatbed on my mog
Remove the shock towers anddrill two holes in the bed directly over the rear crossmember and drilled holes in the rear crossmember


Note that when you do this you will need to cut out to allow the tranny and motor to stick through the bed some as the tranny is taller than the rear of the frame. Itll be easy to cover with a toolbox, spare tire etc.

Now to mount the front part of the bed i found some steel L brackets at lowes and drilled holes on both sides of the bed. To make shure they dont come loose i used 6-32 bolts and locknuts. To mount the lower part of the bracket to the frame i found the longer self threading screws from the kit and simply screwed them into the existing holes

As shown in the first pic, you will either angle your stock shocks inward on the frame or use some shorter shocks. I have it set up now with some from a mrc which give it a level ride hight with the stock shocks in the front

I would classify this as a "cheap" mod besides you might have all the hardware laying around

Hope this helps
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:56 PM   #37
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The first picture shows a few of my hand made scale accessories including an ax.
The second pic shows my hand made sledge hammer made from a wooden dowel and a screwdriver bit with the tip cut off and ground smooth.
Most of my scale accessories were made by hand using random items I had just Laying around the house.
If anybody is interested in the items shown here just send me a message.

Hope this useful for you guys!
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:37 PM   #38
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ok so i like the scale looks of the inward suspension mod on the rear but if i use the stock shocks then wont that make the rear sit up alot more than the front
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:27 PM   #39
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i lost some of the hardware to my battery tray, so when i went to crawl with a friend of mine today (creeping king) and since i was using a small lipo, i decided to try a different mounting idea.




basically i removed the top of the electronics box, and creeping cut 2 slots in the top, from that we just ran a velcro tie through and wrapped the battery.
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:48 AM   #40
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Here is what I did...1st I did the cutting of the spacers to lower the battery tray (already mentioned). Then I cut a space out of the Battery Tray front chassis brace piece. This piece is not really doing anything but holding the front battery tray screw. I cut a slot out (it is still very rigid when placed back in the frame) for the screw on the servo arm to travel up through. With this battery set up I have max travel the upper steering arm hits the frame which I am not too worried about they slide on each other when turning. Anyway it was free and gives me good flex with the stock set up.















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