Tips and Tricks Thread

[Noll11]

I don't have a pic right now, but I found out that a curved price of meccano is the prefect cheap replacement for the stock plastic steering linkage. The holes are in he exact right place etc.


Edit: pic.

[sidehiller]

Hey TINY what did you use for a pan hard bar?


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[racer]

I tryed the diy cms......couldnt do it.not that I couldnt but didnt want to hak at it.just ordered the level 3.

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by sidehiller

Hey TINY what did you use for a pan hard bar?


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I didn't use one. The bump steer I got was very minimal.If it starts to bother me I'll come up with something....lol

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by racer

I tryed the diy cms......couldnt do it.not that I couldn't but didn't want to hak at it.just ordered the level 3.

Hack at it? Hack at what?If your talking about the cutting you'll have to do. It's not a big ordeal. two small tabs, two Small braces between the servo mounting holes, and the ends of the bumper posts. I don't think that's a huge deal when it makes for an almost if not free CMS.It took me all of about 15min. to do everything I needed to do to get the servo mounted.But that's why this is called the "tips and tricks" thread. I gave a tip and told the tricks to pull it off.I love making my own stuff. I like making things that take a little thought to come up with.But that's just me.To each his own.

[racer]

Im not knocking it.im just a little peticulure over angles and could get the angles I was looking for.its a great trick,and im sure there several people done it.when I sit and looked at the angles I started messing with differant positions and then just said.f it...I was already looking at that Kit anyway.like I said great trick just not for me thats all.

[bigdogs21ford]

Originally Posted by T I N Y

Hack at it? Hack at what?If your talking about the cutting you'll have to do. It's not a big ordeal. two small tabs, two Small braces between the servo mounting holes, and the ends of the bumper posts. I don't think that's a huge deal when it makes for an almost if not free CMS.It took me all of about 15min. to do everything I needed to do to get the servo mounted.But that's why this is called the "tips and tricks" thread. I gave a tip and told the tricks to pull it off.I love making my own stuff. I like making things that take a little thought to come up with.But that's just me.To each his own.

I completely agree with this. Where is the fun in spending a ton of money on expensive parts to bolt on and have the wife yell at you. When you can use your fabricating skills (and brain, go figure) and create something from an idea or duplicate something you saw on a forum, that makes it that much more satisfying when your parts work. If they don't, you learn how to make them work. I am self taught with a lot of the things I do in my shop.

Tinkering is half the fun with this hobby.

[racer]

Oh yea im fabing up all kinds of mess for my rig,links all hand made,lights and buckets all old flashlights and Sharpy tops.but in my case this was the first 20.00 I spent on parts since buying it.some things(if cheap enough)ill spend money on.hell my shocks are losi,traxxas,assotiated all mix together.I know how to make something out of nothing.

[muttdog189]

Originally Posted by cox308

This isn't really a mod. I'm just showing it can be done. It would have saved me over $50 had I known this could be done when I upgraded to beadlock rims.

The Stock tire can be removed pretty easily using a heat gun and some HEAVY leather gloves.


You have to heat up your rims a lot! These pics show you what your rim should and should NOT look like when doing this.
Rims on left= to much heat (could damage tires)
Rims on right are perfect (edge of rims just starting to bubble)



Note: DO NOT point gun directly at tire! Once the rims edge start to bubble break the bead of the tire and tear off the tire. If you are careful the tire shouldn't rip or get damaged. After a couple tires you'll be a pro!

that was still too much heat. i used a hairdryer and a space heater and worked them little by little not letting them get too hot. my rims look brand new with no sign they were ever already glued

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by muttdog189

that was still too much heat. i used a hairdryer and a space heater and worked them little by little not letting them get too hot. my rims look brand new with no sign they were ever already glued

^ probably already stated/posted here !?

I boil mine to separate the tire from the wheel.

No damage occurs to the tires or wheels... ever.

Even my stock axial foam inserts survived.

The boiling process takes 15 minutes or so
to allow the tire's bead to be pulled off the wheel.
I laid the tire in the sink after it was boiled for 15 min.
then used some tongs to push down on the sidewalls
to separate the tire from the wheel.

Patience is a virtue here...
and if they don't separate initially (after the first attempt).
boil them some more.
You don't want to force the issue and tear the tire's bead.

Boiling hurts nothing...
'cept... if the foam insert is already crap.

Boiling the foam inserts (along with the tire/wheel)
is not an assured death to those
but, they could possibly become damaged during the process...
requiring replacements.

Most other used methods of removal could cause damage
to the wheel and/or tire.

btw... boiling rubber tends to stink up the house when boiled.
but not too terrible.

Boiling them outside would reduce the stink inside

I have used this boiling method for separating
tires from nylon wheels since the early 80's
Was necessary back in my RC competition days.

I did this to my son's RTR ripsaws glued to the stock wheels
just the other day... separated nice and clean.
He's a happy camper having seen the results

[Trump1]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

^ probably already stated/posted here !?

I boil mine to separate the tire from the wheel.

No damage occurs to the tires or wheels... ever.

Even my stock axial foam inserts survived.

The boiling process takes 15 minutes or so
to allow the tire's bead to be pulled off the wheel.
I laid the tire in the sink after it was boiled for 15 min.
then used some tongs to push down on the sidewalls
to separate the tire from the wheel.

Patience is a virtue here...
and if they don't separate initially (after the first attempt).
boil them some more.
You don't want to force the issue and tear the tire's bead.

Boiling hurts nothing...
'cept... if the foam insert is already crap.

Boiling the foam inserts (along with the tire/wheel)
is not an assured death to those
but, they could possibly become damaged during the process...
requiring replacements.

Most other used methods of removal could cause damage
to the wheel and/or tire.

btw... boiling rubber tends to stink up the house when boiled.
but not too terrible.

Boiling them outside would reduce the stink inside

I have used this boiling method for separating
tires from nylon wheels since the early 80's
Was necessary back in my RC competition days.

I did this to my son's RTR ripsaws glued to the stock wheels
just the other day... separated nice and clean.
He's a happy camper having seen the results

My son used the "boiling method" and it works. You can even use your thumb and index finger to squeeze the tire and remove the wheel.

This is a proven method.

[R_Os]

Wow, so much information. I was seriously sad to realize i was on the last page. Thanks folks!

[Hotrodvw]

I've only owned an SXC10 for a couple months, but here are a couple things I did:

I bought the 1"x2"x3" project box from Radio Shack for $3.00. It comes with the aluminum plate as well. I mounted my receiver to the under side of the lid for easy in/out with the plugs. I used double sided tape to stick the box to the rear cross members. I notched the edge of the lid for wiring to pass thru. The alum. plate that came with it was bent, and dbl sided taped as well as a couple zip ties, to the frame rails. Esc is mounted to the plate. This takes care of a majority of my electronic pieces. BEC is on the gear box, 3s lipo over front axle.





You guys mentioned using nitro fuel tubing for body posts. I used 1/16" thick closed cell foam with a peel and stick backing. I then used leather punches (You can use scissors too) to create the doughnut shapes. It makes for a nice, rattle free body install.

[Undefined]

Goof off removes tire glue with no physical affects to tire bead, compound, or wheel...just astetics..it removed some "chrome" from wheel

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[HPI-Killer]

If you buy the RC4WD CMS Panhard kit for your scx10 and it happens to be for the JK Rubi series it says you need to buy their front bumper mount, no.. Simply cut off 1/4" of the front bumpers mounting post that interferes with the cms mount and she will go right together!

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[jonesssy123]

Here I painted the axial logo on my scx10 gear cover and transmission housing in White for a pretty snazzy look!



Then I painted the axial logo led cover in white for an even more snazzy look!



andddddddd painted the wheel nuts white and hub covers to make a scale appearance!!



Then finally for a real trick and tip, I turned the screw thing over on the stock scx10 rock sliders so that it wouldn't get bashed up from rocks etc..

To add on I would also remove all grease then change with highly water resistant grease! I used b'twin bicycle grease with Teflon that I had lying around. It works like a dream with no signs of corrosion anymore!!!!

[EarlimusMaximus]

If you have a winch, you can replace the stock string with bead working wire. About $4 for 30 feet. 20 pound breaking strain. Literally is scale tow cable if you ask me.


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[Hi-Intentionz]

Originally Posted by EarlimusMaximus

If you have a winch, you can replace the stock string with bead working wire. About $4 for 30 feet. 20 pound breaking strain. Literally is scale tow cable if you ask me.


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I found at Lowes a 50lb cable used for framing that works good and it's the 1:1 style looking cable very scale as well. Just chipping in I think it's only $3 for about a foot or two

[Hi-Intentionz]

Not really a mod but a cheaper way I did my battery tray I purchased a sheet of thin aluminum and cut out the design and made my own battery tray more for a small 3s pack but can also be made for a larger battery
Also made a slot for the servo to keep it off the axle
It straps on to the chassis with small m3 screws and locknuts.

[Hotrodvw]

Have a picture if the actual product??