Advice requested planning a budget SCX10 jeep kit build

[theTman]

I won't be able to afford all this for a little bit, but I would like to start planning out a build and list of materials to get my first scaler set up. Currently I have a 6 year old TLT based gopher tube chassis crawler that I just pulled out of the closet after being out of crawling a few years.

First of all, I am still trying to decide between the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon kit or the Jeep Wrangler G6 kit. I'm leaning toward a G6 but I'm still unsure.

As far as a radio, I've seen a couple in the 80-90 dollar range that look decent enough. Definately better than my cheap AM radio I'm using that I stole from my old Losi XXX-T RTR truck lol.

For a motor, I'm thinking maybe a 35T brushed motor of some sort. I don't want a cheapo motor that won't last long, but I also do not need super high performance as I will not be competing. This rig will be for taking hiking in rocky forested bluff areas and forested areas with ancient lava flows.

I'm the most conflicted on what ESC to go for. There are many options and some of the most popular ones are darn near 100$ or even more than that. I want something that can handle 2s Lipo and either is waterproof or can be safely enclosed in a box that is. If I have to go for one around 100$ I will, but I would rather not. I want the best bang for my buck and don't need bleeding edge performance, but don't want a piece of crap that won't last very long.

I'm also kind of iffy on what servo to go for. I've been running a Hitec HS-645MG with 133 oz. of torque in my TLT based tuber which is fairly heavy. It's been a long time so I don't remember if I had any trouble with it, but it seemed adequate. I know I should go for metal gears. I'm not sure how much torque I need at a minimum and I also don't know about all these terms like coreless motors and the difference between digital and analog as far as performance. Remember I just want something for fun trail runs and rock crawling for fun along the trails.

I am planning to go Lipo with this build. I have never used Lipos and my current charger can't handle them. I could use some advice on finding a good charger and on what other gear I might need (I know I need a lipo charging bag). Also I could use some suggestions as for what to look for in a lipo battery.

This will also be my first kit I ever had so I could also use some advice on what kind of specialty tools I will need. I have the basic and common tools covered. I've also never painted a body so I'm not sure what all I need there.

I hope I can get some good advice here and set up a shopping list so I can have a target monetary goal to aim for. It might be a few months as I'm low on cash and my work is just coming out of the winter slump so my hours are picking up just now. It will be a bit while I replenish my cash cushion before I start saving for this new rig.

[Hirschowl]

A popular waterproo esc is the br-xl Holmes Hobbies LLC

Cheap, popular servoSolar Servo D772 High Voltage 0.17sec@7.4v 64g Digital Metal Gear


From your type of driving, I would suggest maybe a 27t motor. Lots to choose from, just pick your budget.

[theTman]

Originally Posted by Hirschowl

A popular waterproo esc is the br-xl Holmes Hobbies LLC

Cheap, popular servoSolar Servo D772 High Voltage 0.17sec@7.4v 64g Digital Metal Gear


From your type of driving, I would suggest maybe a 27t motor. Lots to choose from, just pick your budget.

I'm not to sure about a 27T motor. I want to be able to still crawl fairly well and have a decent amount of torque. I also want to have fairly long run times. I think I had a 27T motor in my old stadium truck years ago and it burned through that in 15-20 minutes using a 3300 mah Nimh pack.

[itr1994]

I went with the g6 kit, I ordered mine through RPP hobby and ended up paying around $350 for the truck with an rckrawler scx10 lower link kit and an rckrawler cms/trac bar kit. the nice part about buying the lower link kit is i was able to use the stock lower links in the back as my upper links, as for upgrades you might want to check out rc-recycler.com i got my RCP chubs from them for about 20 bucks shipped. the truck is definetely alot of fun, and with the technology of lipos today a 27t motor will do just fine as far as run time goes

[nafie]

axial ae2 esc can be found for 50$ ish used and i think they work fantastic. many people have run these in the water with no problems but i would look for the water proofing info on this forum.

[k goodrich]

Why not get a RTR, change the gearing to 87 spur and 14 pinion. The stock motor will crawl good with that gearing. With the RTR you get a 2.4 radio system as well. At some point the stock servo will go then upgrade it to a 300oz unit. Great was to get started.

[6sharky9]

Plus one on an RTR for a budget...Most used ones youll find already have a lot of the popular suspension Link and steering upgrades and some added upgrades...you can find one for 250 to 300 or so ready to go.

The stock RTR ESC at least for me has been a wonderful ESC...If you go with a 35t motor you can Use a 3s battery if you use a 12 dollar BEC with it..otherwise you have to use a 2s battery...Ive had mine well over 6 months with no problems at all.

A 35T will be great for really slow speed crawling on a 2s...but don't expect to hit the big hills as you will have low wheel speed...A 35t on a 3s will give you the same speed as a 27T on a 2s but you will have better low speed control...Seems to be the norm but not all feel that's needed for good performance.

Most are satisfied with a 2s and a quality 27T...The Holmes Hobbies 27T can be had for $35.00 and wont disappoint you with a 2s when geared properly.


I use a 27T motor geared 87/16 with a 2s and have no complaints power wise and its heavier than stock.

Even the stock 27T motor geared properly on a 2s has good performance.

[theTman]

I think RTR might be a good option. The stock servo is stronger than what I have in my tube chassis'd crawler so I think it will do well enough to begin with. That servo linked earlier looks like a good and affordable upgrade if the RTR one breaks.

I compared the kit and RTR and found the kit just gets aluminum shocks, metal lower links, and a removable hard top for the body. From what I've read the aluminum shocks aren't even all that amazing and that many prefer to upgrade to proline ones. Metal links for the lowers are 20$ if I went with Axial's ones that come in the kit. I planned on leaving the hard top off anyway so no loss there. It sounds like I need to get both a new spur and pinion gear, or would just changing the pinion work?

I noticed that the radio is a 2 channel but the receiver is a 3 channel. What radios would be compatible with an Axial receiver? Eventually I would want a 3rd channel for a winch.

I think I'll go for an RTR with 2s Lipo, and get metal lowers right away.

Now I need to figure out a good Lipo Charger, and some good brands and places to buy Lipo batteries and a charging bag.

[6sharky9]

I use Gens Ace batteries from Hobbypartz.com

Im using the 4800 saddle pack and also they have great chargers..I use the ThunderAce 6 charger.

Ive been using gens ace batteries now for about 3 yrs and have had not one single battery failure ...No puffing..No loss of voltage and they are definitely priced right for the quality you get.


They have a 4000mah for $30 and the 4800 saddle pack is $38 I think...I own and use both in my trucks. Both are 25c 2s

As far as the stock servo...They work well enough to get you going but they use plastic bushings inside instead of bearings and they wear out quickly...You can fix that problem easily and it last much much longer by replacing the bushings with bearing...About a $10 dollar fix.

Or get a better servo that's already got bearings and a little more power. A Hitec 645MG is 35.00...Stay under 200oz in/tq at 6V and you wont need a BEC to use it with the stock ESC.

Im not sure what protocol Axial uses to recommend a different radio to use with the stock receiver...maybe someone knows and will chime in on it.

Generally if you buy a used radio it more often than not comes with a matching receiver to go with it.

[theTman]

How crappy are the stock RTR shocks? Are they decent enough to use for a while? I would like to limit how many things I need to replace from the get-go, but if they are really bad then I'll replace them. I'm already planning to tack on 60$ for axial's aluminum links kit to replace all suspension and steering links with aluminum. I hear the plastic ones flex really bad. Are they as bad as what people make them out to be? What kind of plastic are they made of? Is is Delrin?

[Hotrodvw]

The number one rule for planning on a budget for any build.....before you ever start, DOUBLE IT.

[6sharky9]

The stock shocks work just fine if you don't have a leaking issue with them...The stock links are pretty flimsy and should be replaced..they are too soft and can cause whats called axle wrap and cause unwanted stress on the bearings and drivetrain in general....The steering links are soft and were designed to act as a servo saver to an extent..Youll get beter performance from your steering if you replace them..Not fun trying to turn in one direction but the wheels aren't moving in the same direction in some cases.

If your getting an RTR then consider this list as what you should replace to get you going in the right direction.

1.) suspension Links (upper and lower but lowers at minimum)
2.) Steering links
3.) Upgrade the stock servo bushings to bearings or replace the servo with something better.
4.) Stock motor works fine but install a 16T motor pinion gear
5.) 2S lipo battery for power. (will need lipo charger as well)

Do this list and you should have a decent performing/reliable RTR
..Drive it..learn to drive it..challenge yourself and the truck...Upgrade later as you can determine and understand why you need it.

Things you don't need on a small budget to get started and have fun with great performance
1.) you dont need a 300oz servo
2.) you don't need titanium links or pricey stainless steel suspension or steering links
3.) you don't need A tekin FX-R esc or some 300 dollar brushless set up
4.) you don't need hi steer knuckles and metal c-hubs
5.) you don't need super strong universal axles
6.) you don't need metal driveshafts
7.) you don't need steel gears in your transmission
8,) you don't NEED a 3s battery

[buddamonk]

I started out with my RTR and bit by bit upgraded the rig as i needed to.then when i got finally the scaler virus,then i bought myself a kit.just keep in mind that its all nice to buy a kit and then built that rig up.but of u wanna get decent electronics it ll often cost u much more. I bought a kit,spent another 250 on esc and motor, then futaba rx and servo another 100. if u go the budget way,keep with an RTR. U ll still have tons of fun and if something breaks,replace it with an upgrade.The RTR u can run a 2S Lipo with no problem. Only invest a bit more cash in a good charger as u ll keep that one for later also.

When i bought my rtr, all i bought from the start was a waterproof savöx servo and the axial alu links for steering.

Here is how my RTR looks today

[theTman]

Okay, well it looks like I'm getting a shopping list together for once I have the cash to spare: Axial SCX10 2012 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon,Poison Spyder RC, Poison Spyder

Axial SCX10 TR Aluminum Links Upgrade Set (290mm)

Robinson Racing 16T 48P Pinion

Thunder AC6 Smart LiPo Balance Charger/Discharger w/ AC Adapter for 1-6 Lipo/ 1-15 Nimh + USB to PC Software

And a Lipo battery 30-40$ in price. Exact battery to be determined, but I'm going with the suggested Gen Ace brand from hobbypartz.com.

It looks like I'll need $534 to get started here. Going the kit route it was looking to be pushing the $700 mark. I think going RTR is a good plan.

Someone here said that they used saddle packs in their rig. Why would you need saddle packs in the SCX10, and how would you go about mounting them? Are they just the best cost to capacity ration on hobbypartz compared to flat packs? Do you just put them next to each other in the battery tray?

[6sharky9]

saddle packs mount on your sliders and lower your center of gravity a considerable amount which is always a good thing...you make 2 simple plates from plastic or metal or whatever you can get a hold of and drill 2 holes to mount it to the sliders then you use Velcro or double sided tape to mount the battries...simple cheap procedure.

This is a pic of my rig using saddle packs (Gens Ace 4800mah 25c 2s)..the battery comes with the battery wire but you need either deans or traxxas plugs.

[theTman]

That looks like a good idea. What kind of motor are you running, and how much run time do you get out of those packs on average?

[6sharky9]

Im using a custom 27T but youll be fine with the stock one for now...If the budget allows and you want a better motor look at the Holmes Hobbies 27T torque master sport for 35 dollars.

I personally get about 1 hour or so depending on how I drive it..Alot of throttle often will mean lower drive times..Just moving along slow with an occasion full blast for hills or whatever its about an hour.

[6sharky9]

If you want to see more of my truck and what ive done you can find it here...if you have any questions just ask.

Inside 6sharky9's SCX10 Honcho RTR

[buddamonk]

to lower your CG you could also think of getting the JR Racing battery plate and you can run normal LiPos. I d go the standard LiPo route as you can use those in your other RCs also. With saddle packs you can only use it for cars that can fit saddle packs.

[buddamonk]

Originally Posted by theTman

How crappy are the stock RTR shocks? Are they decent enough to use for a while? I would like to limit how many things I need to replace from the get-go, but if they are really bad then I'll replace them. I'm already planning to tack on 60$ for axial's aluminum links kit to replace all suspension and steering links with aluminum. I hear the plastic ones flex really bad. Are they as bad as what people make them out to be? What kind of plastic are they made of? Is is Delrin?

The stock shocks are ok if you just wanna go trail with your rig without extreme rock crawling. As I said, buy the RTR first with 2x LiPos and a charger. Thats all you gonna need as a starter. If you got a bit of spare cash on hand, buy yourself the AXIAL upgraded steering links and aluminium links. Run your RTR for a month or so and have fun! After that you ll see what you wanna get yourself afterwards. After all, as a normal guy like many of us here, we re out having fun. Of course you can spend tons of cash to upgrade your rig into a shelf queen but why have bling if you dont need it?

So maybe you ask yourself why my rig looks tricked out, it s because i particpate in competitions over here in Europe. But I also have standard trucks at home just to have fun with friends and family.