Trouble with G6 Recon Build

[GodSpeed999]

I have massive contact of the servo horn with a chassis cross brace and I can't for the life of me figure out what's wrong. I don't see anywhere that I misread the instructions.

If I bolt the shocks to the hoops there is literally ZERO articulation in the suspension due to the heavy contact. It's actually hard to even get the upper shock bolts through the mounting holes in the hoops.

Have I done something wrong? How do I fix this?

The only thing I can thing of is to file/Dremmel sanding drum away a fair bit of material from the cross brace, but it's going to be a lot of material. Help! Thanks.

[ChrisShooting]

Remove that brace. Some people will notch it but that just weakens it anyway. I have a couple of these chassis and I always just remove it and everything works just fine.

[GodSpeed999]

Originally Posted by ChrisShooting

Remove that brace. Some people will notch it but that just weakens it anyway. I have a couple of these chassis and I always just remove it and everything works just fine.

I was thinking of doing that because it's really in the way, but it's also used as a support for the forward battery mounting option.

Sure wish Axial made this piece arched.

[ChrisShooting]

That's one of the reasons most people relocate the battery to a lower position. I'm using a Jevne Racing setup now but originally I zip tied the battery tray across the rails in roughly the same location. Gets the battery lower and allows you to run the body lower as well. It all gets the weight down so it isn't so top heavy.

[GodSpeed999]

Okay so from a first build, entry level standpoint, just remove it completely for now and 'go with the flow' (ie. wing it) for forward battery mounting support?

I don't really like that in general and I'm surprised Axial has made it this way, but I appreciate your response and advice.

[ChrisShooting]

Originally Posted by GodSpeed999

Okay so from a first build, entry level standpoint, just remove it completely for now and 'go with the flow' (ie. wing it) for forward battery mounting support?

I don't really like that in general and I'm surprised Axial has made it this way, but I appreciate your response and advice.

It's a common thing and many of the other builds show people having the same problem. It's definitely something that Axial should address.

[crockins]

It is a common problem and a design flaw of the 12" wheelbase version of the SCX10. (*edit* It may be the same on all the SCX10s and not just the 12", I'm not sure. It might only work on the RTRs because of the thin plastic servo horn. Both of my SCX10s are G6 kits. *edit*) It's been a while since I built mine but there are 2 things that might make a difference. There are two different sized sets of servo mounts in the kit. Make sure you are using the smaller one. Also there should have been a little extra bag in the kit that has two spacers and a little instruction sheet. You add those spacers to the bottom links. It clocks the axle back a bit which improves the clearance slightly. Not the best solution but it helps. It's still a problem but what I'm seeing in your pictures is the worst example I've seen by far. I have a different hitec servo than the one you are using so It's possible that the 5646 you're using is just a very tall servo though. On mine, once I got the spacers in to the links it only took removing about 1/16" of material off that cross piece to get it to clear the aluminum servo horn.

[new2rocks]

I had the same issue when I first started putting together my G6. As soon as I saw this during the build, I relocated the battery across the frame rails behind the front shock towers and ditched that cross member. I actually zip tied the stock battery tray to the frame and use the Velcro straps to secure the battery to the tray in that location. It's a vastly better setup than the stock location and costs nothing. I am also predisposed to CMS setups, so this became my excuse to order a CMS kit. I ended up very happy with my setup.

On a side note, after running my G6 for a few months and loving it, I built a Gelande. As soon as I assembled the Gelande chassis, I was amazed at the difference in chassis rigidity between the Gelande and the SCX10. I decided to embark on a stiffening campaign for the G6. I replaced all of the stock plastic cross members with aluminum, and I replaced the stock skid with a Delrin skid. It made an enormous difference in the stiffness of the chassis, with very little weight penalty.

Don't get discouraged. The SCX-10 is a great platform, which is why everyone and their mother seems to have one. It just takes some tweaking and personalizing to get it to how you want it. Once you've massaged it, it's hard not to love it.

[GodSpeed999]

Thanks for the replies.

I did in fact use the "Futaba" servo mounts instead of the "HiTec" ones (as the instructions refer to them), but I can't see how this could possibly make a difference.

I'm not knocking you for the comment but rather questioning Axial's reasoning....unless in their experience all HiTech servos only have one mounting hole per side. Mine has two as you can see in the pictures.

The Futaba ones are taller and allow for 2 screws on each side (which my HiTec servo has provision for) vs. the HiTech ones which are only 1 hole high. This makes no sense to me. Both are the exact same "length"....I double checked. This isn't the problem. Can't be.

I can't imagine what Axial's solution is going to be, but I called their Service line probably mostly out of frustration. I spoke to a nice lady and she spoke to a "Tech" "in the back" who has requested pictures which I have now sent and am awaiting a response.

I did use that extra spacer in the lower aluminum links FWIW.

One another note, I also noticed that the "arms" coming out of the front of my knuckles point in an upward direction (say maybe 20*). Not sure why, but I was expecting them to be more parallel to the ground. Is this normal? I installed the chubs clocked in the direction the instructions call for and not in the direction they specifically have a graphic showing not to. It would, however, bring the arms of the knuckles more in-line with the ground. Anyhoooo....

Really not sure what to expect from Axial. I'd die (with surprise and happiness) if they send, "we're sending you a revised cross brace that will solve your issue." but I won't be holding my breath.

More likely to help is a trip to my LHS to speak with the guys and have a looks at a few trucks they have built there.

Any further discussion here is appreciated.

[altd896]

The instructions I just looked only refer to servo brands for the horn not the mounting posts, although there are definitely 2 different sets of posts on the parts tree, as you say 1 hole & 2 hole.

I think it's your servo as the main culprit, I had one of those & noticed the gear case is noticeably thicker/deeper from the mounting feet than other servos I had (maybe something to do with them sealing them), combine that with the thicker alloy horn & I think the clash with the cross member is the result.

Another option is to move the servo back on the axle, RcBros make some alloy servo posts that will move the servo back about 4mm. (roughly, from memory)
Or to make a new servo mounting plate with the servo holes a bit further back.


The C-hubs & knuckles being clocked back is not a bad thing, if nothing else it lifts the tie rod a little higher to keep it from hitting rocks & stuff.

[crockins]

Without looking at the parts I couldn't remember what the difference was between the two sets of servo mounts. Oh well, worth a shot. I am curious about the servo. In photos online it looks like the height from mounting tabs to face might be greater on that servo compared to mine (which is the hitec 7985) but it's hard to tell for sure without measuring. It is taller over all but that might be at the back instead of the face. Well, I hope Axial has a good suggestion! Removing the brace all together doesn't seem like a great option unless you are compensating somewhere else to maintain rigidity.

[GodSpeed999]

Originally Posted by altd896

The instructions I just looked only refer to servo brands for the horn not the mounting posts, although there are definitely 2 different sets of posts on the parts tree, as you say 1 hole & 2 hole.

[CUT]

Another option is to move the servo back on the axle, RcBros make some alloy servo posts that will move the servo back about 4mm. (roughly, from memory)
Or to make a new servo mounting plate with the servo holes a bit further back.

You're right about the horns and not mounting posts. My mistake. The arrow pointing to the horn is pretty blatant. Thanks for posting that page. I fixated on the #5 and #6 option references more than the part number (and giant arrow) itself.

As for moving the servo back, I'm already mildly concerned (or perplexed) with the contact the upper links make with the back of the servo mounting plate and my servo lines up with the back of the plate just about perfectly. Moving it further back would only cause greater contact with the links.

Originally Posted by altd896

The C-hubs & knuckles being clocked back is not a bad thing, if nothing else it lifts the tie rod a little higher to keep it from hitting rocks & stuff.

Cool, thanks.

[GodSpeed999]

Originally Posted by crockins

I am curious about the servo. In photos online it looks like the height from mounting tabs to face might be greater on that servo compared to mine (which is the hitec 7985) but it's hard to tell for sure without measuring. It is taller over all but that might be at the back instead of the face.

Here's what HiTec has for measurements but still lacking a measurement from mounting tabs to face. I could grab that with callipers but it'll be a few days because I start a 24hr shift in the morning and my in-laws are in the basement bedroom for the night right now.







VS. the one that comes in the RTR Falken

[Dad,Canyoufix?]

Its not a servo size problem, My honcho had the problem out of the box, and it was rtr. Fabbing something up is the best way to go, will allow you to keep battery location(although many will advise you to lower it), and should be fairly simple to mock up and install. Try to keep it simple!

[GodSpeed999]

Thanks for the continued feedback. Hoping to hear from Axial today (with low expectations) and will visit my LHS tomorrow.

If I could use CAD, I'd design something and send it to Shapeways.

Any volunteers!?

[GodSpeed999]

Still searching for a solution, I've noticed that this problem is ALL over the internet on many different forums, blogs, reviews, etc.

I'm surprised that no aftermarket parts supplier has designed anything. Seems like it would be simple to do for a company with the means.

It could very easily be an arch and eliminate the need for the spacer "tube" for the front battery mount.

Frustrating.

[ChrisShooting]

Originally Posted by GodSpeed999

Still searching for a solution, I've noticed that this problem is ALL over the internet on many different forums, blogs, reviews, etc.

I'm surprised that no aftermarket parts supplier has designed anything. Seems like it would be simple to do for a company with the means.

It could very easily be an arch and eliminate the need for the spacer "tube" for the front battery mount.

Frustrating.

There are aftermarket solutions such as the Jevne Racing plate. It relocates the battery to the most widely used location too. I doubt you will find a solution that keeps the battery in the stock location since that's not really ideal.

[GodSpeed999]

I'll look at that plate. Thanks.

Is the stock front location that bad? Too high COG? It's the most forward option, which I like.

[ChrisShooting]

Originally Posted by GodSpeed999

I'll look at that plate. Thanks.

Is the stock front location that bad? Too high COG? It's the most forward option, which I like.

It's not "that bad" but getting the heaviest piece of electronic gear in a rig as low as possible is a good thing. Sometimes I even have to run 2 batteries possibly. An extra for either the winch or one for lights. They are small but can't really mount a second battery in the stock location. Located across the frame rails between the shock hoops and the transmission allows for a lower COG and still keeps the weight more forward.

[jonesyba420]

In my deadbolt ive got the battery mounted like so:
Just using cable ties to hold it, one end is sat on 2 5kg weights each side so the propshaft doesnt rub on the battery plate.works and is as low down as itll go and cost nothing.