Introducing Hannibal

[Col_Sanders]

Yesterday was Hannibal's first event, the Proline Scale Adventure in Apple Valley, CA. I didnt want to go to a Proline event without any Proline stuff so I slapped on a set of TSL XLs with CI foams. These will probably be my every day/G6 tires to save a little wear on the KLRs. The venue was awesome. TONS of traction on the rocks, countless lines, and the challenges were fun. The night poker run was great. it took us almost 3 hours to do and I was able to complete the run on one 3700mah pack. I still need more weight up front and I think the SSD bumper is going away. It just sticks out too far.

[Col_Sanders]

Last week Hannibal got a taste of his own medicine. The "Icon" shocks in my SCX10 II kit were just not up to par, so I swiped the Icons (with machined pistons) off Hannibal and ordered some Proline Powerstrokes. They arrived today and I quickly greased all the O rings with green slime and filled them up with 30wt. I'm impressed with the feel of them. They are smooth and they feel like quality pieces.

Also, my comp style low profile bumper from ScalerFab showed up. If the shackle mounts hang up too bad I'll grind them off but I really like the look of it as is. I'll get the fairlead mounted once I can find some hardware.

[CM9000]

I need one of them bumpers for my Cherokee!

and yeah I wasn't impressed with the icons either. I put my dingo kit shocks on my scx10 2. then I sold it. cause I wasn't impressed with the new chassis layout.

I still have a set of axles though


and regarding your frame... what are you gonna do about the lower tabs on the front? they don't catch on the rocks?

[Col_Sanders]

I havent ever noticed the extra frame tabs hanging up and they dont have much rock rash on them. I am going to try and mount this bumper on those lower mounts and drop the body down some to see how it does. I may grind off the two shackle mounts if they start causing problems too.

I have an SCX10 II here. Its tempting to steal those axles and put them on Hannibal. I probably will when I can get OD gears and aluminum c hubs and knuckles.

[Col_Sanders]

I had the new bumper sucked in as far as possible and the body was rubbing on it a bit, but I didnt think much about it. Hannibal took a pretty bad tumble and it cracked the front of the body pretty bad. I decided to go ahead and get a new body. This would allow a more secure way to mount the body since I didnt need to line up with the predrilled holes. Also I can now spot my rig in the sea of Deadbolts.



A 2300kv Roc 412 was also put in. As smooth and torquey as the Torquemaster 550 was, it kind of felt soft in the mid/top end. The Roc isnt as smooth starting, but its tolerable. Mid and top end are much improved. Today I should have another update. Got a package from RPP coming in.

[Ahod39]

Nice work man! I just re-did my bashed up RTR Deadbolt with a fresh body and it's great. New colors really do make it stand out.

[CM9000]

I don't think alum hubs and chubs are needed for the new axles. od is yes a much need.

im half tempted to not start a sporty with the new axles and just put them under my long lived proline chero body. the axles are awesome once broke in.

[bilinvic]

Great thread Col_Sanders, I enjoy reading about the changes you make to steadily improve Hannibal's performance.

[Col_Sanders]

The top ear on the II knuckles are pretty thin. Since its double sheer they will probably hold up fine, but I prefer to have aluminum. Plus it adds a little weight.

[Col_Sanders]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

Great thread Col_Sanders, I enjoy reading about the changes you make to steadily improve Hannibal's performance.

Thanks, the big issue that I'm fighting right now is that the front end still pops up on climbs. I'm hoping that the winch helps stop that, but I am going to be ordering some more springs to try out and mess with rear upper link geometry a little more. Might end up moving ESC as well.

I used to have a little course in my backyard so tuning was fast and easy. Now that I have moved and have to drive 30-45 minutes (along with the 100+ temps and a toddler and a newborn) keeps me from being able to get out as much.

[bilinvic]

I found having the rear links set to more of an anti-squat tune really helps in addition to firmer rear spring rates. (anti-squat = rear upper links positioned to a higher mounting position at the skid)

...of course, more weight up front is needed too.

[Col_Sanders]

I have the rear upper links up a little higher than stock. They are on the bottom position on the TSS chassis. Is there any benefit to moving the front upper links up? I have that one in the stock location.

[bilinvic]

If my suspension knowledge is accurate, then you want to have squat tuning in the front to counteract lift...in other words, keeping the front upper links mounted closer to the lower link mounts on the inboard (skid) side. For my rigs, this train of thought has really made a significant difference in performance, I experience less rear roll-overs.

[snapon boy]

Get a set of beef patties and that will plant the front end.

149 r/c worx team driver

[Col_Sanders]

Originally Posted by snapon boy

Get a set of beef patties and that will plant the front end.

149 r/c worx team driver

I have them installed already. This bumper is pretty light. Feels lighter than the SSD bumper that it replaced. My SSD Ox winch will be here today and I'll get it installed and tested tomorrow morning. I think that extra weight hanging way out front will help with this issue.

I'm going to be selling the KLRs and getting a set of Rock Beast XLs on order as soon as I see them posted up somewhere for preorder.

[CM9000]

cant wait to see the ox saddled in haha. and yeah.... I would just wait for the brass knuckles coming out for the scx10 II. those are already in cad I believe.

[snapon boy]

Sorry I missed that in your build notes. Have you tried different link mount locations to see it it helps. When I switched to the homebrew chassis it reduce that problem for me. Then I added a Servo winch down low and I'm planted.

149 r/c worx team driver

[Col_Sanders]

I got my SSD Ox winch and HeyOK high voltage winch controller installed last night. This winch is huge! And now the bumper sticks out almost as far as my old SSD bumper. I'll probably be grinding off the shackle mounts. The winch feels pretty powerful and fast. I'm running it off the balance plug on my 3s lipo. I also did a little bit of siping on my TSL XLs. I really like these tires more than the KLRs. Some of the lines that give me hell with the KLRs were a breeze today. The added weight up front from the winch seemed to help keep the front end from kicking up on steep climbs.

The first picture is what they call "The Great Wall". It is very steep and has small ledges that make it a challenge. I was able to get my stock SCX10 II up it today too, but it was definitely much more challenging and it took me a few attempts.



The other pics are just poser shots.

[dubAron]

Great looking build

[Col_Sanders]

A few updates on Hannibal. I chopped the grille up a bit and sucked the front bumper in about 1/2". It went from as far out as the Scaler Fab bumper would go to almost all the way in. Got a RC4WD wireless controller and it was bad out of the box. The winch would never stop. A few fun poppy snappy noises and four letter words later, The HeyOK controller went back in. I also briefly replaced the MMP One Cell with a Mamba Micro X. That little guy fried in about 15 minutes.

I have been battling the front end lifting up on steep climbs this whole time. I thought I had it figured out until I went out Saturday to a different place with a couple more experienced guys. There were some climbs they all made it up that I couldnt. I wanted to keep the 12" wheelbase to stay a bit more maneuverable, but that was really getting on my nerves. I got home and refilled my now empty Proline shocks and put on the single stage springs instead. I also installed a set of VP Wraith rear links, which put my wheelbase around 12.3".

Today I went out for about 3 hours and the rig performed excellent. I was able to do some lines that I previously had not been able to do. The rear links being curved also helped.





I screwed the set screws in too tight and they apparently werent really grabbing into the C Hub? No idea how they stayed on this long but luckily this was a quick easy fix.



I'm waiting on a set of Rock Beast XLs and I will be ordering MIP driveshafts too. My TF2 needs a driveshaft upgrade so I figure I'll kill two birds with one stone buy getting the MIPs for this and installing my old Wildboar HDs on the TF2.