SCX-10 Deadbolt front axle movement

[RatBoy D]

My Deadbolt has progressively gotten a lot more play in the front axle. moves back and forth ever since the day i bought it. Tried putting a new joint in for the upper links and that didn't help. Suggestions?

[donny8594]

Need a little more info? Plastic or metal links? 4 link or 3?

[RatBoy D]

I didn't do anything with the links from day 1 just been running them the way they came

[Prime]

The stock 3 link has some play in it, is a common problem with it and as it wears it will get worse. Now would be a good time to upgrade to a four link in the front, all the parts you need came with it in the extra bag of goodies.

[bongsten]

I used to put washers on either side of the upper pivot ball, its a total work around because there is still a little slop but it works great over stock, its a great excuse to get a CMS/ 3 link kit.

[mulchman]

Get with the owner of The Crawl Space in Wheat Ridge, Co.. He hooked me up with a fitting that cured this problem. I stop by there every time I go through the Denver area for work.

Wayne

[Col_Sanders]

The stock Axial rod ends and balls are pretty soft plastic and they wear fast. The front 3 link will eventually start popping off. Temporary fix is adding a washer on the front. It will stop it from popping out but you will still have a ton of slop.

Building your own links is very easy and cheap if you already have a Dremel or hacksaw. There are many tutorials here and on youtube on how to do it. Basically it is just threaded rod, Revo rod ends, and 1/4" stainless tubing. Use your old links as a reference for length. You will need to either swap the front to 4 link, or do a chassis mounted servo since you will no longer be able to use the Y thing anymore. 4 link performs better and will cost less, but the CMS looks more scale.

If you aren't the DIY type, there are many different options out there for links. Most are made out of stainless steel or titanium. Stainless is cheaper, but quite a bit heavier (the weight isn't in a bad place so it isn't that big or a concern IMO). A bonus to this is that you will usually get the steering linkages as well. I just would NOT go with Axial's aluminum setup. It uses the same rod ends so you will have the same problem.

[bongsten]

i replaced the lower links and upper rear links with the VP ti links but kept the stock upper "3rd" link in the front out of laziness, huge difference (DUH) you could defanitly get away with only metal lower links tho and the all thread/ brake line links with revo rod ends are killer! cheap and easy to make

[RatBoy D]

Going down to Myrtle Beach for Christmas and they have a good rc shop down there so I'll probably get some aluminum links while I'm down there

[TacoCrawler]

I replaced my original Axial plastic hollow balls and rod ends
using Traxxas plastic rod ends and steel hollow balls.
I used Traxxas TRA # 1942 for my 3mm threaded links.

I also installed a single shim (thin washer) on one side of each ball end
to remove any lateral play there at their end mounts.

Tighten the mounting screw(s) going thru the ball ends
and make sure all the lateral play is gone.

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I've since moved up to 4mm theaded links..
and now use Traxxas Revo plastic rod ends with steel hollow balls.
Traxxas TRA # 5347 for 4mm threaded links.

Again... I used a single shim (thin washer) at one side of each hollow ball
end to eliminate any lateral play in the mounts.

I did this to both my SCX-10 and my Wraith.
tightens up the suspension/link end slop nicely...
and lasts much longer then the stock plastic crap.

No matter... over time and abuse...
even these plastic rod ends and steel hollow balls will need be replaced
to tighten things up (refresh) like new again.

The rather soft mild steel screws securing the ball ends wear down too
Replace with stainless steel screws and they will hold up longer.

But the Traxxas rod ends and hollow steel balls with last much longer
the does the stock plastic junk.

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^ both of these kits above include the ball ends and steel hollow balls.

around $ 7. for TRA #1942 and $ 9. for TRA # 5347