TRX4 portal axles to UMG10

[Traulus]

Has anyone tried this? Is it worth swapping the axles?

[mikemcE]

Josh just did a video showing those on the new VP frame, shorter links and your done


Hang up and Drive

[Traulus]

I have seen that, don't know if the VP chassis is the same with the axial chassis

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Traulus

I have seen that, don't know if the VP chassis is the same with the axial chassis

Yes.......but the VP rails are different.
Link mounts are quite close

Hang up and Drive

[Traulus]

Well, those are good news. My UMG10 will be getting some trx4 portal axles with OD and UD gears

[fyrstormer]

Gonna rig up some servo mounts for the remote-lockable diffs? If you're not going to use the remote-lockable diffs that the TRX-4 comes with, then the portal axles for the MST CFX-W would be a less expensive option.

[GnarKill]

It looks like the off set front diff is on the driver side is that going to be an issue with the stock trans? Just saw a set on ebay that are permanently locked.

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[fyrstormer]

No reason why the offset front diff would be a problem as long as the center driveshaft is long enough to reach it. If the driveshaft has to cross the centerline of the truck to reach across to the other side, that's...sub-optimal...but it would still work.

Maybe you need to buy two sets of TRX-4 axles, keep both rears, move the steering components from one of the fronts onto one of the rears, and re-sell the extra parts. That way you could have two symmetrical axles for your build.

[GnarKill]

Originally Posted by fyrstormer

No reason why the offset front diff would be a problem as long as the center driveshaft is long enough to reach it. If the driveshaft has to cross the centerline of the truck to reach across to the other side, that's...sub-optimal...but it would still work.

Maybe you need to buy two sets of TRX-4 axles, keep both rears, move the steering components from one of the fronts onto one of the rears, and re-sell the extra parts. That way you could have two symmetrical axles for your build.

Since the stock cvds are different lengths which ones would you use to build the rear housing into a front axle? Since they have to be portal cvds.

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[ferp420]

Originally Posted by GnarKill

It looks like the off set front diff is on the driver side is that going to be an issue with the stock trans? Just saw a set on ebay that are permanently locked.

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flip the trans so your outputs are on the other side reverse the motor leads

[DRTMI]

Kit trans outputs are centered. No problem with the front offset differential.

[MeanTT]

Originally Posted by fyrstormer

Gonna rig up some servo mounts for the remote-lockable diffs? If you're not going to use the remote-lockable diffs that the TRX-4 comes with, then the portal axles for the MST CFX-W would be a less expensive option.

The CFX-W axles are garbage. My unimig build on a CFX chassis came to an abrupt stop when it blew axles on each shakedown run. The portal gears are too small. I actually bought some 3D printed parts to center a steering servo on redcat portals.

I used deadlock portal extensions and boom racing metal axle housings to get portals on my UMG10. Works perfectly.

[MeanTT]

My rig with boom and deadlock portals:




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[eucasafari]

Have any of you UMG10 guys had to trim the front bumper yet?

With a lot of steering input and full suspension compression, my tires are biting into the bumper pretty bad. With the higher COG on this rig, I don't want to put more stiffness into the front shocks.

It's such a new rig to me that the idea of hacking the bumper up makes me a little sad, but it's gotta do all the things first and foremost.

[dmcchaser]

Originally Posted by eucasafari

Have any of you UMG10 guys had to trim the front bumper yet?

With a lot of steering input and full suspension compression, my tires are biting into the bumper pretty bad. With the higher COG on this rig, I don't want to put more stiffness into the front shocks.

It's such a new rig to me that the idea of hacking the bumper up makes me a little sad, but it's gotta do all the things first and foremost.

I have the stock wheels, tires, and bumper on mine. I haven't trimmed the bumper at all, even with it mounted in the closest in mounting holes.
It works fine under normal articulation, and I have the steering end points adjusted to turn the wheels as far as they will mechanically go.

When you say "full suspension compression" do you mean pressing the vehicle down by hand? If so that amount of compression won't really ever occur during normal crawling.

I'd say run it, and if you find that you have issues out on the rocks or trail, adjust or modify it after that time.

[eucasafari]

Originally Posted by dmcchaser

I have the stock wheels, tires, and bumper on mine. I haven't trimmed the bumper at all, even with it mounted in the closest in mounting holes.
It works fine under normal articulation, and I have the steering end points adjusted to turn the wheels as far as they will mechanically go.

When you say "full suspension compression" do you mean pressing the vehicle down by hand? If so that amount of compression won't really ever occur during normal crawling.

I'd say run it, and if you find that you have issues out on the rocks or trail, adjust or modify it after that time.

When I am crawling a difficult rock transition and one of the front tires is compressed up close to the body - if I am also near full lock turning the tires bite into the bumper. This is *not* with the stock tires, nor with the stock shocks.

90mm SSD piggyback shocks and 120mm Hyrax tires. The stock 1.9 MT45 tires are 117mm, so these aren't much taller.

Just as I type this though, I am thinking it may be due to the wide hubs on these Methods. The wider hub keeps it from tucking more into the body, where it might otherwise dip under the far edge of the bumper.

doh

[doubledub]

I did it, took a little effort to get the steering correct, no big deal