RCCrawler Forums

kaetwo · 06-07-2011, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonU

Keep us posted on that motor

I'll be in the market for a motor shortly after my Wraith arrives.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4ONDFLR

I am also interested how that motor works out. I was thinking a 16t for mine

I apologize for not getting a review of this up, I've been swamped at work so I have had no time to do anything with the Wraith. I'll get it installed this weekend and give you guys a full breakdown

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dillpickle

The wraith looks like a beast compared to the honcho.

It totally does, and even with 2.2 tires on the Honcho, it still looks a bit tiny

Quote:

Originally Posted by im gunna crawl

The ship date to my local hobby shop was ......6/15/2011. Its been bumped as of sunday 6/6?/2011 to 7/10/2011. Meaning add 3 days to come from the distributor? Now early to middle of july?

Oh that sucks!!!! That means it will be a while before spare parts are out too.

My son puts 2-3 batteries through this rig a day and he's finally broken the cage work. It's the two plastic support pieces that attach the stinger to the main chassis. I'm really surprised it's held up as well as it has

kaetwo · 06-13-2011, 04:49 PM

I mentioned a week or so ago that my servo was getting a little sloppy due to it having a bushing on the output shaft rather than a bearing, so I dug into it and found a bearing tha fit like a glove.

10mm x 5.93mm x 2.94

I am guessing but that's sounds like a 10 x 6 x 3 At anyrate it took all the slop out of the servo and now it runs like a raped ape.

TURTLE · 06-13-2011, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaetwo

I mentioned a week or so ago that my servo was getting a little sloppy due to it having a bushing on the output shaft rather than a bearing, so I dug into it and found a bearing tha fit like a glove.

10mm x 5.93mm x 2.94

I am guessing but that's sounds like a 10 x 6 x 3 At anyrate it took all the slop out of the servo and now it runs like a raped ape.

Thanks for the info. I noticed a lot of slop in the bushing for the main gear as well, just way to lazy to figure out what bearing would fit in there.

4ONDFLR · 06-13-2011, 11:55 PM

How's the new motor doing?

LostCrawler · 06-14-2011, 10:01 AM

I have asked this question in the electronics section but just thought I would ask you, but have you tried changing any of the setting on the ESC with out the castle link?

RCTRUX · 06-15-2011, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LostCrawler

I have asked this question in the electronics section but just thought I would ask you, but have you tried changing any of the setting on the ESC with out the castle link?

he doesnt do the impossible

LostCrawler · 06-16-2011, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCTRUX

he doesnt do the impossible

What do you mean by that? I reprogrammed my settings on mine without the link, and I brought this subject up in the electronics section and another guy did it too. So its not impossible.

kaetwo · 06-16-2011, 01:43 PM

I'm not sure how you would program the ESC without a Castle Link.

There are no program buttons or indicatior lights like you have on a Tekin ESC.

PinchFlat · 06-16-2011, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LostCrawler

What do you mean by that? I reprogrammed my settings on mine without the link, and I brought this subject up in the electronics section and another guy did it too. So its not impossible.

Share with us this mystic knowledge you possess.

NaZ-T · 06-16-2011, 02:05 PM

It is possible, but you need the castle field link.
So yes it can be done without a computer but You still need to purchase an additional item.

http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...d_link_car.pdf

PinchFlat · 06-16-2011, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NaZ-T

It is possible, but you need the castle field link.
So yes it can be done without a computer but You still need to purchase an additional item.

http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...d_link_car.pdf

Naz-t comes through with the 411. Right on.

EDIT: Oh hey I remember you showing me that now.

kaetwo · 06-16-2011, 02:16 PM

Well look who it is...NaZ-T. It's been a while.

Thanks for the details on the FPU, I totally forgot about that.

It's good to see you out and about

LostCrawler · 06-16-2011, 02:48 PM

I am not trying to be a smart butt or a know it all. My nephew bought a honcho the other day so I set it up for him. After I binded the remote I was thinking I was going to need to caliberate the ESC and I thought I was doing it but it started beeping and doing the flashing like my HH ESC. Thats when I noticed it was in the programming mode. I was able to change the drag break and the reverse modes. So I asked the question on here and written below is what a guy said he was able to do too. This is copied from my thread.

Guy from Austraila just hacked the stick program for the AE-2!
"I have worked out how to program some features of the AE-2 without using Castle Link. Like the Castle Creation SideWinder ESC, the standard way of getting into the programming mode is as follows. You may want to disconnect your motor from the ESC first to avoid the chance of a runaway.

1. Switch off the ESC
2. Switch on the transmitter and hold full throttle
3. Switch on the ESC
4. Release the throttle AFTER the second series of tones

The ESC uses tones to indicate what Options you are currently accessing and its setting. eg. Option 2 setting 3 will be "beep-beep, pause, beep-beep-beep". You accept the setting for the option by engaging full throttle, or you can go to the next setting by engaging full reverse. Once you have configured the last option, the ESC will emit a series of tones and when that is finished the settings are stored.

There are 3 Options available and here are the Settings available:

Option 1 - LiPo CutOff (I think, please test first)
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 - On

Option 2 - Drag Brake
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 to 6 - varying degree

Option 3 - Brake/Reverse type
Setting 1 - Forward-Brake-Reverse
Setting 2 - Forward and Brake only
Setting 3 - Forward and immediate reverse

For a crawler using LiPo, the setting would be:

1-2
2-6
3-3

PinchFlat · 06-16-2011, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LostCrawler

I am not trying to be a smart butt or a know it all. My nephew bought a honcho the other day so I set it up for him. After I binded the remote I was thinking I was going to need to caliberate the ESC and I thought I was doing it but it started beeping and doing the flashing like my HH ESC. Thats when I noticed it was in the programming mode. I was able to change the drag break and the reverse modes. So I asked the question on here and written below is what a guy said he was able to do too. This is copied from my thread.

Guy from Austraila just hacked the stick program for the AE-2!
"I have worked out how to program some features of the AE-2 without using Castle Link. Like the Castle Creation SideWinder ESC, the standard way of getting into the programming mode is as follows. You may want to disconnect your motor from the ESC first to avoid the chance of a runaway.

1. Switch off the ESC
2. Switch on the transmitter and hold full throttle
3. Switch on the ESC
4. Release the throttle AFTER the second series of tones

The ESC uses tones to indicate what Options you are currently accessing and its setting. eg. Option 2 setting 3 will be "beep-beep, pause, beep-beep-beep". You accept the setting for the option by engaging full throttle, or you can go to the next setting by engaging full reverse. Once you have configured the last option, the ESC will emit a series of tones and when that is finished the settings are stored.

There are 3 Options available and here are the Settings available:

Option 1 - LiPo CutOff (I think, please test first)
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 - On

Option 2 - Drag Brake
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 to 6 - varying degree

Option 3 - Brake/Reverse type
Setting 1 - Forward-Brake-Reverse
Setting 2 - Forward and Brake only
Setting 3 - Forward and immediate reverse

For a crawler using LiPo, the setting would be:

1-2
2-6
3-3

Very Nice. I think it is the same ESC as the Honcho so if it would on the Honcho then it should on the Wraith. Kaetwo can you verify that it is the same ESC?

Matt.k · 06-16-2011, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PinchFlat

Very Nice. I think it is the same ESC as the Honcho so if it would on the Honcho then it should on the Wraith. Kaetwo can you verify that it is the same ESC?

I can verify it is the same ESC...

Hoyta · 06-16-2011, 08:44 PM

and how would YOU know mr. smart pants??!!

Brandon · 06-17-2011, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Axial

I can verify it is the same ESC...

I can verify this verification.

JonU · 06-19-2011, 02:03 AM

Any update on how that motor is doing if you've had time to put it in Kaetwo?

im gunna crawl · 06-21-2011, 07:07 PM

People were commenting on when they came out? I just picked mine up from the hobby shop in Hamilton Ohio tonight (tuesday). Just snipped the factory connector off to solder a deans connector on. The hobby shop ordered 10 mine was the only on shipped. They are saying mid july now. The wierd thing is the serial # ???????? Its on the ...... servo. Trucks awsome!

06-16-2011, 02:48 PM	#93
LostCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Shenandoah Valley Posts: 106	I am not trying to be a smart butt or a know it all. My nephew bought a honcho the other day so I set it up for him. After I binded the remote I was thinking I was going to need to caliberate the ESC and I thought I was doing it but it started beeping and doing the flashing like my HH ESC. Thats when I noticed it was in the programming mode. I was able to change the drag break and the reverse modes. So I asked the question on here and written below is what a guy said he was able to do too. This is copied from my thread. Guy from Austraila just hacked the stick program for the AE-2! "I have worked out how to program some features of the AE-2 without using Castle Link. Like the Castle Creation SideWinder ESC, the standard way of getting into the programming mode is as follows. You may want to disconnect your motor from the ESC first to avoid the chance of a runaway. 1. Switch off the ESC 2. Switch on the transmitter and hold full throttle 3. Switch on the ESC 4. Release the throttle AFTER the second series of tones The ESC uses tones to indicate what Options you are currently accessing and its setting. eg. Option 2 setting 3 will be "beep-beep, pause, beep-beep-beep". You accept the setting for the option by engaging full throttle, or you can go to the next setting by engaging full reverse. Once you have configured the last option, the ESC will emit a series of tones and when that is finished the settings are stored. There are 3 Options available and here are the Settings available: Option 1 - LiPo CutOff (I think, please test first) Setting 1 - Off Setting 2 - On Option 2 - Drag Brake Setting 1 - Off Setting 2 to 6 - varying degree Option 3 - Brake/Reverse type Setting 1 - Forward-Brake-Reverse Setting 2 - Forward and Brake only Setting 3 - Forward and immediate reverse For a crawler using LiPo, the setting would be: 1-2 2-6 3-3 Last edited by LostCrawler; 06-16-2011 at 02:53 PM.

06-13-2011, 04:49 PM	#82
kaetwo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Whales Posts: 2,939	I mentioned a week or so ago that my servo was getting a little sloppy due to it having a bushing on the output shaft rather than a bearing, so I dug into it and found a bearing tha fit like a glove. 10mm x 5.93mm x 2.94 I am guessing but that's sounds like a 10 x 6 x 3 At anyrate it took all the slop out of the servo and now it runs like a raped ape.

06-13-2011, 11:55 PM	#84
4ONDFLR Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: CHESAPEAKE, Va Posts: 556	How's the new motor doing?

06-14-2011, 10:01 AM	#85
LostCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Shenandoah Valley Posts: 106	I have asked this question in the electronics section but just thought I would ask you, but have you tried changing any of the setting on the ESC with out the castle link?

06-16-2011, 01:43 PM	#88
kaetwo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Whales Posts: 2,939	I'm not sure how you would program the ESC without a Castle Link. There are no program buttons or indicatior lights like you have on a Tekin ESC.

06-16-2011, 02:05 PM	#90
NaZ-T RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Behind the wheel of an Axial R/C Posts: 1,921	It is possible, but you need the castle field link. So yes it can be done without a computer but You still need to purchase an additional item. http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...d_link_car.pdf

06-16-2011, 02:16 PM	#92
kaetwo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Whales Posts: 2,939	Well look who it is...NaZ-T. It's been a while. Thanks for the details on the FPU, I totally forgot about that. It's good to see you out and about

06-16-2011, 08:44 PM	#96
Hoyta Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Franklin, Va Posts: 456	and how would YOU know mr. smart pants??!!

06-19-2011, 02:03 AM	#98
JonU Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Fort Bliss Posts: 177	Any update on how that motor is doing if you've had time to put it in Kaetwo?

06-21-2011, 07:07 PM	#99
im gunna crawl Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: s. terra firma Posts: 519	People were commenting on when they came out? I just picked mine up from the hobby shop in Hamilton Ohio tonight (tuesday). Just snipped the factory connector off to solder a deans connector on. The hobby shop ordered 10 mine was the only on shipped. They are saying mid july now. The wierd thing is the serial # ???????? Its on the ...... servo. Trucks awsome!

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