Mip thread!!!!!!!

[MIP MATT]

Hi guys, this is Matt over at Morre's Ideal Products better known as MIP. I would like to start a new MIP based thread so I can get some feedback about our products. The good, the bad, and everything in-between, bring it all on ! I'm the customer service/ tech guy over here so if you have any questions, or need help, make sure to hit me up.

We also have a couple new products in the works, the first of which is our Realshocks Bypass 1 product. Check out Velocity RC Magazine's vid for a detailed overview with Eustace Moore (MIP Owner).

Also I've heard alot of chatter about the possible Wraith axles. They have been design as you guys have heard we've just been holding off on pulling the trigger. Can you guys post some pics of where the kit axles are breaking and some already fully built rigs so I can check them out. Also post any upgrades you guys would like to see come out of MIPs doors

visit vrcmag.com for the vid

Enjoy!

Regards,

Matt
Customer Service/Tech Support

[transambill]

Welcome to the madness Matt.

[johnnyh66]

We're happy to have ya here Matt

I think many people would be interested in MIP getting back into Axial axles.
I'm still running MIP axles in my SCX10 axles.

I would like to see a universal with a ring over the pin. I've had several back out on the MIP AX/SCX axles causing damage from a lost comp to a destroyed axle.

Fix that, make them beefy and I'm in.

[cdnhobbyist]

Hi Matt. Thanks for joining,

in my experience of 1:1 I always liked a "fuse" (spicer u-joint) to be my weak link, purely for ease of trail change and cost. (I can easily change a u-joint and drive home)

RC is different, In Building RC, my suggestion would be: don't be the fuse. Let the other parts fail and build industrucable stuff. That will get you the best name here. People will buy your stuff if it is bomb proof. Price it accordingly, and make it bomb proof.
If people want to buy the cheaper version a few times, they will, and then they will eventually buy the good stuff!
If the people that make your pins aren't on board, get new people!

Build it bomb proof and we will buy!!!

Keep up the good products, and have fun trying to kill them

[Meatwad]

Good to see you make it over here Matt I too would like to see again an ax/scx version as well as for the wraith. Sorry no pics as I'm still on bones and cups.

[strykerjoe]

Hello Matt,
Nice to see a company like yours to show an interest. I've used your guys products for every rig I have ever owned. I have yet to break a MIP scx10 axle/cvd/drive, slash 2wd cvd , revo 2.5 drive/cvd , AE T4 cvd , Losi LXT cvd.....ect .
It seems to be that the axles are breaking at the cross pin, wheel threads , at the locker and mid way up in the axle housing itself. Now is that due to abuse or crappy metal?
Thanks Matt for your time!

[WarTrader]

Thanks for taking an interest in our little community. I've been a long time user of many of your parts for longer than I'm willing to admit here .

I'm really looking forward to seeing some reliable axles for the wraiths. I will say one thing the drivers here are especially hard on axles.

The wraith has presented a very unusual problem in that this kit does it all. It is for many their rock crawler, their go fast basher, and just about everything in between. I think in talking with the guys in my club the reliability problems that everybody is seeing is because they are running extra weight in the wheels especially the front for better crawling traction. That has been a standard for us for a long time in this segment of the hobby. It has been a problem but not overwhelming since we used high turn motors and had relatively low wheel speeds. The problem here is now your doing that on a truck with low turn brushed, and bushless race type motors. Not only that many guys run 3S lipo. Once you add all these factors together the 3-7oz. of weight that are being put in the wheels is quickly exceeding the engineered strength of just about everything everybody has throw at us.

What this kit needs is a versatile knuckle weight that can work with multiple hubs and still have a little bit of a scale appearance.

I do want to ask what type of time frame are you looking at for release of the Bypass1 kit, and what shocks (manufacturer and model) are the kits going to drop for first. I'm very very interested in those!

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

welcome!

look forward to seeing what you guys put out for the wraith..

here are 2 wraiths ive built up pretty beefy..

"riddler" southern buggy build

mg200 southern buggy build "HEADCASE"


here is where some parts are breaking...


a friend of mines,we regularly go hillbashing with our wraiths..

[indiana mudcat]

First, your driveshafts are bombproof. I think if you look around the 2.2 scale section and the SCX and Wraith sections you'll see that there's a lot of people running huge power in these rigs. 3300kv motors on 3s and 4s are becoming very common. For many of us MIP driveshafts are the very first mod we do.

The bad. Your AX axle shafts were a joke as I'm sure your well aware. The metal seemed to be the same metal used in the driveshafts and was just way to brittle. I've had sets break in the first five feet more times than i care to admit. The cup would blow out sometimes but usually the ball on the shaft would just crumble. Axial CVD's were smaller yet stronger, with upgraded pins they would snap the ball off clean at the small spot on the shaft. I always believed a shaft made of Axials material in your design would be the best cost strength compromise. I know for go-fast stuff you have "shiny" CVD's, is this I similar design and an option?

The AX CVD's did fit tight in the locker and knuckles, tighter than Axial dog bones or CVD's. That was a good thing until the shaft blew, then it took out the 11x15 bearing with it everytime and made that bearing a pain to get out of some knuckle brands, other shafts wouldn't harm that bearing at all when they went.

Check out vendor SDS Customs on here also and his super 300 shafts. Pricey, but bomb proof and worth it. That's really the strength level people want. That strength at a price entry level hobbiest are willing to pay is the hard part. But his shafts do show that a bomb proof shaft can fit with the stock parts, just change a couple bearings to 6mm.

[omenwolf]

they all seem to snap the short side for me. Please hurry I dont know if I will be able to afford the super 300's as much as I want them.
rc4wd snapage

hot racing snapage

[Land Crab]

I am fairly new to crawling and was only bitten 4 months ago But I am proud to say that I am using a set of your M.I.P Wraith driveshafts and am pleased as punch. I still have and am using the stock dog bones because like many enthusiasts we have not been able to get the better Axial universal joint axles. I guess I am lucky or am not running my rig hard enough to break the stock shafts....yet. I just installed a Holmes 2012 Team motor and BR-XL so my luck may run out soon.

If and when you do offer a superior set of universal joint M.I.P drive shafts I will be on the list of buyers lickity split. My only hope is that the threaded end of the axles is not quite as long as the stock shafts so I can use these beautiful scale lug nuts from troyranosaur.

[ZippoMan]

I really want to get the MIP drive shafts for my Wraith! They look great!

[yoda@4x4]

glad to see you on hope to see more stuff for the scale/crawler world you do make awesome parts and have a good support team glad t see your on...

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by strykerjoe

Hello Matt,
Nice to see a company like yours to show an interest. I've used your guys products for every rig I have ever owned. I have yet to break a MIP scx10 axle/cvd/drive, slash 2wd cvd , revo 2.5 drive/cvd , AE T4 cvd , Losi LXT cvd.....ect .
It seems to be that the axles are breaking at the cross pin, wheel threads , at the locker and mid way up in the axle housing itself. Now is that due to abuse or crappy metal?
Thanks Matt for your time!

When it breaks at the threads its usually because of driving or torquing down the nut to much. As for them breaking at the pin hole we've had problems with the traxxas 4x4s. The problem is that the size of the hub is just to small for the required pin that they use. We only have problems when people are running 4s with heavyier cars. Yes there are exceptions but if they contact me with a problem and the axles ard fairly new I'll help them out.

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

First, your driveshafts are bombproof. I think if you look around the 2.2 scale section and the SCX and Wraith sections you'll see that there's a lot of people running huge power in these rigs. 3300kv motors on 3s and 4s are becoming very common. For many of us MIP driveshafts are the very first mod we do.

The bad. Your AX axle shafts were a joke as I'm sure your well aware. The metal seemed to be the same metal used in the driveshafts and was just way to brittle. I've had sets break in the first five feet more times than i care to admit. The cup would blow out sometimes but usually the ball on the shaft would just crumble. Axial CVD's were smaller yet stronger, with upgraded pins they would snap the ball off clean at the small spot on the shaft. I always believed a shaft made of Axials material in your design would be the best cost strength compromise. I know for go-fast stuff you have "shiny" CVD's, is this I similar design and an option?

The AX CVD's did fit tight in the locker and knuckles, tighter than Axial dog bones or CVD's. That was a good thing until the shaft blew, then it took out the 11x15 bearing with it everytime and made that bearing a pain to get out of some knuckle brands, other shafts wouldn't harm that bearing at all when they went.

Check out vendor SDS Customs on here also and his super 300 shafts. Pricey, but bomb proof and worth it. That's really the strength level people want. That strength at a price entry level hobbiest are willing to pay is the hard part. But his shafts do show that a bomb proof shaft can fit with the stock parts, just change a couple bearings to 6mm.

Ya we figured out real quick that people were busting the AX10 axles really quick, it wasn't our design but axials platform we had to conform to and it just wasnt going to hold up like our name has always represented. Thats why we discontinued the project. We do have Wraith and AX10 drawings completed to replace the everything on the front including billet hubs, steering arms, CVDs, and everything that has to do with the front end would be MIP. The thing is we never went into production because the kit would have been around 165 retail and we didn't think they'd sell very well. We have also thought about changing the bearings in our traxxas models but with much discussion we decide that people would go through bearings because of the speeds they put them through. BUT these things arn't to fast so thats a great possibility .

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by ZippoMan

I really want to get the MIP drive shafts for my Wraith! They look great!

We've never had one complaint about those puppies . They are pretty bomb proof hahahah

[DRN]

Would be great to have another option out there for axles. My only concern would be just purchasing all Vanquish Products for my axles then having to buy all new chubs and knuckles. It would be awesome if they were compatible with other products out there. I know MIP has great products I've been involved in r/c since '85, can't wait to see what you come up with.

[ZippoMan]

Originally Posted by MIP MATT

When it breaks at the threads its usually because of driving or torquing down the nut to much. As for them breaking at the pin hole we've had problems with the traxxas 4x4s. The problem is that the size of the hub is just to small for the required pin that they use. We only have problems when people are running 4s with heavyier cars. Yes there are exceptions but if they contact me with a problem and the axles ard fairly new I'll help them out.

That is good to know about the breaking at the threads issue. Who knew you could over torque the nut. Is there an optimum torque? Is it from guys who use cordless drivers or what? I will be gentle with my hand screw driver now and try not to go crazy.

I hope you make axle shafts for the Wraith similar to stock size so we don't need to buy a ton more parts.

I plan on getting MIP drive shafts soon. They look super nice!!

Keep up the great work.

[blckgnx]

Hi Eutace,
Been using your products since the Frog Diffs and Cox car diffys, and even the 4whl drive RC-10 conversions!! If you build them, we will come!! I'll take a set for sure. Ron Burgess, from Tehachapi.

[MIP MATT]

Originally Posted by ZippoMan

That is good to know about the breaking at the threads issue. Who knew you could over torque the nut. Is there an optimum torque? Is it from guys who use cordless drivers or what? I will be gentle with my hand screw driver now and try not to go crazy.

I hope you make axle shafts for the Wraith similar to stock size so we don't need to buy a ton more parts.

I plan on getting MIP drive shafts soon. They look super nice!!

Keep up the great work.

As long as the nut is snug and you have good nylon on the nut . Also even better if you have nurraled nuts