WREXO build, front diff question...

[turbodan13]

I'm about to start converting my RTR into a WREXO, using the Blue Monkey kit, and have a a concern/question on the front differential.

The intended use is for G6 & Terra Cross stuff, so I'm leaning more towards an "all 'rounder" set up. Thinking a long those lines, would a limited slip (LSD) front diff make more sense than a locked type? And, if an LSD is the way to go, what would be the best choice of viscous compound (i.e. heavy weight oil/grease), spring set, or combination of both, to achieve the desired LSD result?

I've already gone a tad bonkers on the build budget, so doing a full lock/MIP shaft/dogbone conversion set up is out of the picture at the moment. Would it just be best to run the stock EXO diff for now, then do the whole MIP set up later?

My thought for the front LSD set up is to retain a slightly faster turn-in radius for the Terra Cross events. It seems that a locked front & rear would create a bit more understeer, as well as excess strains/stress on the drivetrain under hard cornering.

Am I wrong in thinking this would be a good approach?

[Erin]

Run the GCM cvds, I think they are $20 on ebay

If you think you are going to be in more rocks then not, you are going to want that diff to slip as little as possible. Im not sure how it would work in a larger rig like this, but in my twin hammer, I run silly putty in the front and its tight, hardly ever slips, but will give just a bit in a big bind.

You have to fill the diff completely, meaning it squishes out when assembling. And it needs to be replaced every so often as it will breakdown over time. But so far its been working really good, and Im not breaking pins in the cvds

Otherwise, tune the diff with heavy oil, probably 500k to 1mil

[allanon1965]

silly putty? i never woulda thought of that, thanks for the tip!

[Erin]

It works damn good and very cheap. One egg will fill the diff at least 5 times lol

Plus it glows in the dark

[gsrcivic]

U could use a heavy heavy diff fluid or ofna makes some and I locked mine with spider gears lol I just used the gears from the rear diff and put then in the front diff and it locks the gears simple free locker and I'm running The gpm cvds and there doing great on pro4 3s haven't got them in a big bind yet though

[phllint]

I locked up mine and all you need is a hot racing locker and 2 springs that fit inside the diff cups about ½ long.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

[phllint]

Sorry to post up again but, the GPM cvd's are as good as mips and a lot cheaper and you don't have to "make them fit". I run them on a pro4 4600 on 4 and 5 cell and they are still perfect

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

[jacko117]

Originally Posted by phllint

Sorry to post up again but, the GPM cvd's are as good as mips and a lot cheaper and you don't have to "make them fit". I run them on a pro4 4600 on 4 and 5 cell and they are still perfect

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

Just wondering if you are using front or rear gpm cvd's? I know the rears are slightly longer than the fronts and I have herd (not sure how true it is) that the rears will work better in the front because they are longer and have less slop meaning you don't have to put in an o-ring to keep things tight. I can only find gpm rear shafts on ebay so it would be good to know if they work before going even further over budget.
any info would be appreciated, thanks

[gsrcivic]

Originally Posted by jacko117

Just wondering if you are using front or rear gpm cvd's? I know the rears are slightly longer than the fronts and I have herd (not sure how true it is) that the rears will work better in the front because they are longer and have less slop meaning you don't have to put in an o-ring to keep things tight. I can only find gpm rear shafts on ebay so it would be good to know if they work before going even further over budget.
any info would be appreciated, thanks

I used rears and had no problem they worked flawless time and time again