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Im Brandon ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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The XR10 Setup Sheets are now available: Click here for the blank Setup Sheet! Click here for my setup from Nationals 2010. ![]() Last edited by Brandon; 09-24-2010 at 12:16 PM. |
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TEAM RCC Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: THE ALIEN WORKSHOP
Posts: 770
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary
Posts: 913
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Brandon, you guys have any team set up's yet? I've seen the builds but knowing the little stuff will be great as well. Great idea Axial. Obviously Scott moving in there has paid off. |
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Im Brandon ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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![]() BENDER and Scott are working on there setup sheets as well. | |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: southport
Posts: 142
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If u read this and haven't already done this it is a good tip for the build process of the upper shock mount. If u have noticed in the build the manual instructed to put the rubber bushings in the top of the shocks. If u look at some of the extra plastic shock parts u will see one that has plastic ball swivels like for rod ends, put those into the top of the shock then re mount them, but make sure u put the flat side where u put the nut on to hold the shock on other wise it will try and come off. This should help the movement of the shocks and let the suspension work a little better it helped mine anyways!! Hope it helps guys!! ![]() |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: KK Sabah North Borneo
Posts: 162
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awesome idea guys!!! suddenly i can see the nitro/ep rc race setup resemblance here which i use quite often on my other rc class interest. never thought it will be used in rock crawling too. Awesome guys. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
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Axial XR10 Setup Sheet and Tuning guide | |
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![]() | #49 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
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Here's a great tip for the battery mount. Can be done with what you have already. Then you can easily get an 1800, 1500, or 1300 in and have your CG as low as possible. Removed battery tray and dremeled it, flipped it, and mounted it upside down on radio tray. Then bent the mounting tab downwards. |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: southport
Posts: 142
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: southport
Posts: 142
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Also when i was looking at mine it never touched the outside flange on the ball! plus it seemed stiffer with the rubber than the plastic but good pic and im sure it will help people withe stock setups!! Last edited by junior ax10; 10-03-2010 at 07:55 PM. | |
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: southport
Posts: 142
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
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I found mine to have considerable slop where the lower links connect at the skid. The links slid back and forth on the mounting screw. To rectify this I used a 1mm washer to the outside of each rod end. ![]() |
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada
Posts: 236
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I did the excat samething DickyT..I was wondering if there would be any detrimental effect to doing this though?.It sure is a sloppy area. Also noticed that you spaced out your front uppers like the rears..Does this make a difference at all?..Great tips from everyone ![]() Last edited by xv-townboy; 10-04-2010 at 01:13 PM. |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Utah
Posts: 1,530
| ![]() I also did this with the front shock mounts to keep it from pulling on the tabs to close the gap.
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RCC Addict ![]() Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 1,026
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^^ Did that as well
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Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: in da hieghts
Posts: 32
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i just made a small lexan tray that the lower links clear no problems also you can get to the esc settings with ease.. |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
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This tip is obvious to us seasoned crawlers, but will be great for the newbies. Drill and tap your lower links to accept 4mm studs. You will need an m4 x.07 tap. Then install traxxas jato ends. http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Traxxas-J...5-p-17901.html They are just like Revo ends but longer. Cut them to the same length as stock, or add a mm to each to stretch your wheelbase out to 12.5". You can get 4mm studs from associated, venom, kyosho etc. I prefer these on ebay that are 20mm and steel: http://cgi.ebay.com/M4-x-20mm-Socket...item2a0396c15a This works best with the machined lower links but you could do it with your stockers. If you are doing this with the machined links, you will need to use the bent rod end that Bender used on his front machined lower link. Just tap it to 4mm. It is plenty thick. ![]() The machined links pictured below have been upgraded This tip will give you bulletproof links so you won't have to worry about those 3mm ends breaking, or pulling out. Thanks to Fa1rch1ld for turning me onto the jato ends. I'd never seen them until recently and they are worth their weight in gold because of their extra length compared to revo ends. Trim to fit ![]() They could come in really hand at comps too when rig is just a hair out of spec. Just trim the jatos a hair, and you are good to go ![]() Last edited by Rig Rocker; 11-12-2010 at 10:13 AM. |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Central, WA
Posts: 1,176
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Something stupid and small but the body mounts make it a pain to get the clips in and out. I took an old 46g guitar string and ran it through the hole. Using it as a file I slotted the little holes at an angle to match the angle of the body and scoop. Made it way easier to get the clips in and out............Now lets see if they stay in.
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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Diego
Posts: 128
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I know the slop in the rear has been talked about in other threads... But here it goes.. To get rid of the rear (side to side) slop in the axles... (stock lockouts)... Use a .5mm (.020") shim on each axle... ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by MOTORRAD; 10-24-2010 at 04:36 PM. |
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