Del Monte's XR10 Build #1

[Del Monte]

They're working out great. I ran today in 100* heat and the ESC's were warm after 15min, but not to the point of danger. I didn't have a temp gun with me, but I would have guessed they were in the 110-120 range at the most.

The drag brake is pretty solid also, but I haven't ran anything else in this truck to compare it to.

[MitchellY]

Originally Posted by Del Monte

They're working out great. I ran today in 100* heat and the ESC's were warm after 15min, but not to the point of danger. I didn't have a temp gun with me, but I would have guessed they were in the 110-120 range at the most.

The drag brake is pretty solid also, but I haven't ran anything else in this truck to compare it to.

Cool! Maybe I'll get these instead of the micro pros. Theyre a lot cheaper!

[TSK]

Originally Posted by MitchellY

Cool! Maybe I'll get these instead of the micro pros. Theyre a lot cheaper!

You may want to consider you RTR weight, which you'd have to guesstimate. If I read correctly earlier, Jake's rig is under 5lbs. That will have an impact on drag brake performance & esc temps. A heavier rig will require stronger drag brakes to hold, and the motors will draw more amps when under power.

[Almighty Malach]

I've been running dual sidewinder micros for over a year and they'll handle a 6lb plus berg just fine. Even with cheap integy motors the crawler drag brake mode will hold quite a bit.

[BFGcrawler418]

The mamba micro pros are on sale are WWW.allerc.com and if u use discount code "yahoo10" u will get ten percent off ur order. I personally like the micro pros because they have a protective case bbut I'm also not too worried about saving every ounce.

[paystin]

Originally Posted by BFGcrawler418

The mamba micro pros are on sale are WWW.allerc.com and if u use discount code "yahoo10" u will get ten percent off ur order. I personally like the micro pros because they have a protective case bbut I'm also not too worried about saving every ounce.

That is a great deal on the micro pro's. Got mine for $125.00 with discount code and free shipping. Thanks!

Not to Hijack Jake's thread but I drive with Jake in SoCal so hopefully he won't hate me to much.

I use the Mamba Micro Pro's and my rig is just under 6lbs. RTR. They have worked great for me with a very strong drag brake and no setup issues. I also don't worry about every little oz. savings so these work for me.

[Del Monte]

Here's a quick pre-Nat's update



Every time I think I have this rig figured out, I find something else that makes the truck even better.

Here's a quick rundown of the new setup:

Aluminum SCX10 shocks (AX30090)
80wt front, 60wt rear
6mm external limiters

.7" SLW front w/350 hubs
Crawler Innovations medium outer/soft inner
4oz added

1" SLW rear w/225 hub
Proline dual-stage foam

[ittybitty]

It looks like it's ready to do some good work...that body looks amazing!

[Culetto]

So when do we hit the irish pub?

[Del Monte]

Originally Posted by Culetto

So when do we hit the irish pub?

Jess and I are rolling into town Wednesday night, so anytime after that

[jeeper_05]

Any chance on a body off shot? I am working getting the RT where I want it...

[HARDKNOCKZ]

So what's she sitting at now Jake...Get her under 4 pounds yet? Frickin guy.

If time permits...Gonna have a little present for you in Vegas. If not...then SSS comp fer sure.

J.D.

[Robbob]

Any particular reason you went to the aluminum bodies over the plastic?

With your shocks limited mind sharing your belly height?


Good luck at the nats

[Del Monte]

Originally Posted by jeeper_05

Any chance on a body off shot? I am working getting the RT where I want it...

Here you go








The upper links are spaced out 6mm at the chassis, and the rear upper links are spaced out 3mm per side at the axle. I also dropped the front upper links down to the middle hole on the VP upper link mount. With this setup, the front suspension dives quite a bit under power.

[Del Monte]

Originally Posted by HARDKNOCKZ

So what's she sitting at now Jake...Get her under 4 pounds yet? Frickin guy.

If time permits...Gonna have a little present for you in Vegas. If not...then SSS comp fer sure.

J.D.

4lb, 8oz

Originally Posted by Robbob

Any particular reason you went to the aluminum bodies over the plastic?

With your shocks limited mind sharing your belly height?


Good luck at the nats

The AL shocks seem more consistent then the plastic bodied ones. I haven't had any major leakage problems with either one, but the AL ones seem to cycle better.

The belly is just under 3" at the front of the skid at ride height, and it drops out to about 3 1/4". The rear of the skid is at 3 3/8" at full droop, with nearly 4" under the rear links

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Del Monte

The AL shocks seem more consistent then the plastic bodied ones. I haven't had any major leakage problems with either one, but the AL ones seem to cycle better.

The belly is just under 3" at the front of the skid at ride height, and it drops out to about 3 1/4". The rear of the skid is at 3 3/8" at full droop, with nearly 4" under the rear links

Thanks. Thats what I was kind of wondering and waiting to see if someone said that. I know in TC we can feel the difference in the aluminum vs plastic bodies, was wondering if these would do the same.

[Del Monte]

Here's something new that I've been playing with



After I saw Egressor's scx shock mods, I wanted to try something similar. I couldn't find the Tamiya bladders anywhere in the US, but Traxxas Mini Revo shock bladders are almost exactly the same size. They are included with the GTR shock rebuild kit, TRA7062.

To get the most out of the mod, I added a 1/16" vent hole to the top of the shock to lower the internal pressure. Be sure to clean the any burrs off the inside of the cap so that the bladder can seat fully. You will also need to run at least a 5mm external limiter on the shock shaft to keep the piston from crashing into the shock bladder.

DISCLAIMER: If you add a vent hole to the shock cap, it will no longer work without a shock bladder. You will have effectively made a squirt gun



I also added a 1/16" bleeder hole to make rebuilds easier. This mod works great with or without the shock bladder. The location of this hole is important. If you drill too close to the top of the cap, the shock won't seal correctly. I found that drilling the hole at the end of one of the "ridges" in the cap works out well.



I've put about 10 packs on the new setup, and I'm pretty happy with the results. The shocks are a lot smoother now and leak free so far. Since the shock cap is vented, the shocks feel much more linear then stock. For my lightweight rig, this meant a lot less funky unloading. If you're used to the progressive feel of the stock shocks, you might have to adjust springs/preload to get the same feel.

Here are some gratuitous crawling shots from this morning

[Highlucks]

That's a cool trick Jake. Thanks for sharing.

[EGRESSor]

looks great Jake
what shock oil do you run ?

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by EGRESSor

what shock oil do you run ?

Thats what I was just wondering, did you or do you think you will change the weights to compensate for the shock feel now?

And do you still run the oring inside the cap when using the bladder now?