just picked up a used Yeti XL today

[Megadesertdiesel]

been playing with gas powered 1/5 scale Losi's for last few years and found a good deal on a YYeti XL today so i had to pick it up.

i am new to the all electric cars and not sure which motor is in this one. I was told it was a castle but cant find any markings on it.

i need to order up shock rebuild kits, change fluids and new arms , just to startt off with good stuff.

is there any aftermarket plastic arms? i seen a ton of aluminum ones, but worried of them bending aand staying bent. I bought it for bashing around the house and in the dunes.

gotta figure out my photobucket again to post up some pictures.


any advice of other things to check out or replace would be appreciated.

[Sneetches]

I wouldn't worry about the arms, just replace them with stocks and you're fine. I would simply redo the shocks however you want, 40 wt front and 30 wt rear might be a good starting point. For the diffs and diff oil, it depends on the terrain.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Sneetches

I wouldn't worry about the arms, just replace them with stocks and you're fine.

Agreed since there are no aftermarket plastic ones yet. RPM may make them in the future but unless thousands request it i doubt it. Fleabay, Dollar Hobbyz etc have spares for cheap.

There are a few threads on here on the shock oil subject and diff fluid. For bashing around the house and in the dunes what sneetches suggested will be fine as a starting point.

Do you have photos of the YXL?
RTR?
Driving style?

[sj4x4]

For the diff's I used marine grease ( sticky red ) I have not had any issues since.

[Silverblazer50]

Go buy the hr racing rear sway bar, huge improvement!!!

[Megadesertdiesel]

posted pictures a few days ago but it said they had to be approved by the admin. have not seen them so here they are.

not sure what motor i have, the front shocks need rebuilt, and it apprears i have an aftermarket swaybar.

[cmbscx10]

After a good clean and relube i would test the Savox SC 1257 TG. The servo horn is bent and the link is rubbing the top plate. The Savox SC 1257 TG is rated at only 138 oz-in. Surprised it turns the tires. If you have to replace look at 300+ oz-in.

Can't tell what the motor is from the pics but the ESC/Motor look to be new(ish).

No big on the shocks. My front and rear shocks are leaking already but that is probably/likely my fault when i built them.

[Fordfreak95]

Whoa...That was my throttle/brake servo on a Losi Ten build. Funny...the stock YXL servo is now my Savage XL throttle/brake servo. LOL. Steering needs to be 300+ agreed. 400+ and you can slap around heavier tires.

[Megadesertdiesel]

motor has no markings, so i dont know what it is.

with the HK 120A esc, do i need a BEC? the specs say it has one built in

what kind of linkage should i have under the servo horn? i dont think the ball should be there. i ordered the Axial aluminum one with tightening screws along with a new Savox 1230sg

i just ordered up some stock replacement parts to replace the broken bits. Still trying to decide if i want to go all out on aluminum parts or not.

also i am trying to figure out if this was a kit or rtr, does the rtr have all aluminum steering?

[cmbscx10]

Always a BEC no matter what. For the $$ it is insurance and opens up a broad range of Servos to use. Program your BEC for the 6.0v of the Savox 1230sg and enjoy the TQ


Body looks RTR
Wheels look RTR
Shocks look RTR
Steering could have been upgraded from RTR plastic
The "Kit" swaybar has no issues to warrant a replacement so i would say it's a RTR.

RTR or Kit doesn't matter IMO. The smiles either would bring does.

[rob4607]

Zooms like the steering is upgraded, the motor is a castle 1515 series and being black it looks to be out of a traxxas xo, xo1 or whatever the fast car is they have. Seen them listed on eBay.... Anyway, esc is hard to say from the photo but I'm a old noob.

Looks like you have some good stuff added, may want to change the rear shock position on the lowers to be all the way back but you may not need to since you have the rear swaybar.

I would definitely check the gear mesh front and rear, front has been a major issue for many. And also the hinge pins. I'd also drill a hole or two under the servo so it doesn't sit in a bathtub. Check all the set screws on the driveshafts also. There will probably be more but the other more knowledgeable people will hopefully chime in.

[BobTeagle]

You have an rtr. I know because of the wheel hex nuts. No one would remove 17mm hexs from a kit and replace with the rtr set up. You can easily overcome those pesky wheel nuts by doing the Hot Racing 17mm hex upgrade.

The kit and RTR do not come with aluminum steering bellcrank and draglink, so that has been upgraded.

I have the Savox 1230 as well. It is a tall servo so you will need to add some longer servo mounting screws and some spacers. I found some in my spare parts box so I do not know what spacers to recommend. Also the Savox 1230 was causing receiver brownouts for me until I wired in an external BEC. My Hobbywing 150amp ESC's internal bec was not enough at 6v 3a.

[Megadesertdiesel]

like this for a BEC

Castle Creations 10A Switched BEC - 010000400

then its wired the same? from battery to esc through BEC then reciever? or after reciever before servo?

[pro mod steve]

wiring bec/servo/esc
Check out the link. I am a noob to all this bec stuff but after some searching I am going the y-harness route. Seems the less complicated.

[cmbscx10]

I have used HH Bypass in my last 5 builds. Makes it so much easier. Plus TCS is the closest to you.

Holmes Hobbies RX Bypass Adapter HH-RX-BYPASS