Shame to not build an XL while hopups exist. So here we go

[Spunkybob]

Oh no... After seeing your RR thread and now THOSE WHEELS!!!!!!! My wife is so going to leave me once I start modding my YXL when I get it mid next week after my bonus comes in :-)

I'll likely end up selling all my other RCs just to fund the mods for it.

As mentioned on some thread or another I'll just be running 3/4s so I don't need to make it stupid strong.. but reliably good looking is what I'll aim for.

90% of my bashing is parks and trails and 10% the local BMX track. Even with my slash which is maxed out mods wise I still drive it tamely so the YXL should be fine.

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[daign]

man oh man... I need to track down some zinc hardware but these are....

Kudos to Motorworx for ever making these, and wow, they are ART. Some pitbulls might be needed these deserve better!

Crawler Innovations Single Stage 3.8 7.50"

Couldn't resist I had to build one late tonight.




I'm officially excited. Build should pickup now.

[Spunkybob]

*drools*

I'd say for the $200 odd they are totally mint!

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[daign]

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

*drools*

I'd say for the $200 odd they are totally mint!

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Hell of a lot better than a set of 2.2 vanquish methods eh?

Unbelievable....

I'm considering polishing them with the dremel to remove the machining marks. But in a way they're beautiful. These things literally create an airtight seal when both halves are joined. its a beautiful damn thing. Well done Motoworx!

Each wheel takes about an hour to finish. Wrestling the foams into the tire, the wheels into the CI foams, then hand tightening 32 screws (unsure about beadlock yet, but would probably be wise.)

I also got some 3.8 Pro-Line paddles for the sand. They look..... Too monster truckish, too short and stubby. In fact they fit the Baja Rey better than the YXL.

It was always my understanding with paddle tires you want tall narrow, big paddles. Like agricultural tires and mud? If thats the case, these pro-lines might have to go back. I'll look into doing a 24mm Baja Wheel conversion for sand. Low on the priority list for now.

heres the proline 3.8 next to the rock rey with 2.2 Maxxis 5.5" tall SLW based wheels





I'll try and finish the rolling stock tonight if I can.. Transmission is done. Diff oils arrived.

I got Mugen 1 million weight oil for the rear diff, 200k for the front diff. GPM diff barrels.

I've never used diff "oil" per say. Only the stuff kits normally comes with. Am I supposed to fill the damn diff, or just enough to lube the gears like always?

[Tzicul]

You have to fill it just a little bit above the spider gear's pins. But, don't forget, the last screw you are supposed to tight up is the grub screw!!! Otherwise the pressure will build up inside the diff

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by Tzicul

You have to fill it just a little bit above the spider gear's pins. But, don't forget, the last screw you are supposed to tight up is the grub screw!!! Otherwise the pressure will build up inside the diff

Can you explain? I thought the little grub screw was to allow you to put in the pin.. if you don't do it up firstwon't the cup leak?

I'm going to be getting a kit mid next week.

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[Tzicul]

Sure, the main function of the little grub screw is to install the small pin. But do this exercise: try tightening the diff with oil in it and without the grub screw installed yet. You will see how the oil will start getting out from the diff. Now, if the grub screw would have been already in place, what would have been happening with the extra oil? It would have build up the pressure inside the diff! That's why you have to tighten the grew scrub the last. Hopefully I made myself clear, English is not my first language.

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by Tzicul

Sure, the main function of the little grub screw is to install the small pin. But do this exercise: try tightening the diff with oil in it and without the grub screw installed yet. You will see how the oil will start getting out from the diff. Now, if the grub screw would have been already in place, what would have been happening with the extra oil? It would have build up the pressure inside the diff! That's why you have to tighten the grew scrub the last. Hopefully I made myself clear, English is not my first language.

So you did read my threads

[Tzicul]

Of course! However, I use to do that before you wrote about it, it's common sense!

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

So you did read my threads

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by Tzicul

Of course! However, I use to do that before you wrote about it, it's common sense!

Not THAT common.. I've never done it on any others.. none of the other ones have had a hole in them.

Usually when you fill diffs you 9nky fill it to just above the spider shaft, so wouldn't it be pushing out too much.. especially if you are using a lighter oil?

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[daign]

Received the diff silicone today so started the diffs. Wheels are finished.

I ordered both the dhawk and gpm bulkheads by accident. The Dhawk is on its second revision, and much nicer clamshell design to keep the bearings from moving.



unfortunately the directions include the shims. After 4 different times removing that pesky c-clip re-shimming and the HD beveled gears binding, I finally decided to try it without any.

Smooth as butter, but wow that diff silicone helps.




I didnt realize how damn messy this crap was. Luckily I had a syringe from my dogs pet meds. It made filling the diffs completely very easy. 200k front, 500k rear.



done for the night. early morning. GPM shock tower on dhawk bulkhead.

Rear end gets started tomorrow. Got my 3rd bearing ready!

[Spunkybob]

Nice one brother.
I'm getting my kit tomorrow. Are you using the stock bearings or upgraded ones?

Did you check if the GPM case is the same as the dhawk one? I was going to GPM mine as I have had great success with them in the past.

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[Tzicul]

[QUOTE=daign;

I ordered both the dhawk and gpm bulkheads by accident. The Dhawk is on its second revision, and much nicer clamshell design to keep the bearings from moving.
Rear end gets started tomorrow. Got my 3rd bearing ready![/QUOTE]

Why don't you use the GPM bulkhead instead of Dhawk? If you do, you can use three bearings in the front also

[daign]

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

Nice one brother.
I'm getting my kit tomorrow. Are you using the stock bearings or upgraded ones?

Did you check if the GPM case is the same as the dhawk one? I was going to GPM mine as I have had great success with them in the past.

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Boca bearings. I only plan on using one stock bearing for the rear BHB triple bearing mod.

The gpm is the same design as the stock bulkhead... after looking at them both in the bags I decided on the D Hawk because it clamps both bearings into little slots from the sides. Stock/gpm clamshells front to back.

I'm sure either will work. I just waited for the dhawk parts forever so I chose to use them.

Their spacer is a must have and sold separately on ebay/amazon

[daign]

Originally Posted by Tzicul

Why don't you use the GPM bulkhead instead of Dhawk? If you do, you can use three bearings in the front also

I could have on the dhawk as well but didn't think it applied to the front

It's my understanding the triple bearing mod is only for the rear. I can't see how it would benefit the front in any way? Perhaps you can clarify

[Tzicul]

Originally Posted by daign

D Hawk clamps both bearings into little slots from the sides

Originally Posted by daign

I could have on the dhawk as well but didn't think it applied to the front

It's my understanding the triple bearing mod is only for the rear. I can't see how it would benefit the front in any way? Perhaps you can clarify

The main problem is the undersized bearing, whether in front or back. Trust me, I already broke a pinion in front too. When I developed this mod here An alternative to hd gear mod I've done it on the both ends. So, no matter what you will do, the bearings will fail sooner or later. But having three bearings, even if the outer one will fail (always the outer one), you will still have the remaining two to keep the pinion centered, giving you the time to change the broken one without the need to change the pinion. Hence the problem with Dhawk bulkhead, you can't install the third bearing in it. Of course, if you decide not to do this mod in front, Dhawk is just fine.

[Spunkybob]

From my readings the dhawk one fits the new HD gears perfectly while the stock/GPM one needs the BHB mod (grind down the little tabs) to mesh correctly.

Brother I know you are building it but you are in a unique position to own both to test to see which one fits better

I was going to order the dhawk bit I have no idea where to get it and the eBay page doesn't have it listed.

For $100 it better be amazing though.

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[Tzicul]

Here is Dhawk Great deals from dhawk-racing in Yeti-XL-AX90032-AX90038- | eBay Stores
Here is GPM https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/prod...R-BUGGY&fid=43
However, I would recommend to buy it from GPM, maybe you will want to install the third bearing after all.

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by Tzicul

Here is Dhawk Great deals from dhawk-racing in Yeti-XL-AX90032-AX90038- | eBay Stores
Here is GPM https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/prod...R-BUGGY&fid=43
However, I would recommend to buy it from GPM, maybe you will want to install the third bearing after all.

They don't have it listed on the dhawk eBay page.. is it a hard to come by hardly have stock of it thing?

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[daign]

a monster is coming!


6s ready! Used 2 2mm shims 3 sealed bearings. Have a spare Dhawk spacer anyone?? Should I have done 3 bearings in front diff too?