Shame to not build an XL while hopups exist. So here we go

[daign]

Damnit. How the hell did I forget to order front a-arms!? I think I intended to ask if they were necessary or RPM arms better?

I have the GPM front steering arms/c-cups... I think my logic was that aluminum bends, flex is better? Should I get front arms?

Edit: Screw it, I just read the T-bone a-arm protectors dont fit aftermarket arms. I'll run stock.

[Spunkybob]

I never ever run aluminium arms.. after I did on my slash (they came with it when I got it used) all it did was break something else way more expensive.

Metal hub carriers and hubs definately though.

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[daign]

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

I never ever run aluminium arms.. after I did on my slash (they came with it when I got it used) all it did was break something else way more expensive.

Metal hub carriers and hubs definately though.

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You're right, my memory is shot from pain meds... Totally forgot my slash 4x4.

I'm actually a bit concerned now about the front because its so damn beefy and the arms are the only thing not aluminum.

I imagine the Shock tower would be the first to go with my setup?

At droop. American Machine works upper camber arms, as well as steering linkage with Revo ends. Worth every penny! Wish I had bought their rear suspension setup! Probably nuclear proof!


I had to do quite a bit of sanding on the arms to get them to fit snug into the HR aluminum/carbon bulkhead. I also had concerns about the seal between the HR bulkhead to the front Dhawk diff. Didn't think about that. Luckily it fits tight as can be! (time will tell in sand!)

I tried to lighten this up so you could see the diff/bulk seal.


And from the bottom. already gave it my first scratch


Haha looks like I used the wrong size bolt. time to fix that tonight.

[Spunkybob]

It's looking sweet.

For me I only want aluminium hubs and hub carriers and diff housing.

I'd rather break a $6 shock mount then potentially crack a $100 diff housing haha.

I priced up some GPM parts to Australia.. diff housing is $98, and the compeltely front hubs will be able $60

I also want to get the steel steering posts, and with that I'll be happy for now.

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[daign]

Well this is a bummer. The Hot Racing steering which forewad center cross bar binds agains the back of the dhawk dhawk front Diff. Damnit.

I think I'll have to take a dremel to it tomorrow and take a bit off the center. It only binds at 3/4 lock. Just need to get it to full lock... REALLY don't want to wait for the slowboat for a GPM or Dhawk steering setup. I'll make it work. Typical when you bolt aftermarket parts from different companies...

Done for the eve....
Starting to look sexy!



Edit: Couldn't stop, had to dremel it and finish the front. I think i need one of those GPM spring bumpers in gunmetal.


Beef

Getting excited. Hoping to knock out the rest of the suspension tomorrow. Maybe some shocks.

I wish some quality aftermarket shocks existed out there. With the Dhawk or Hot Racing Shock kits you're looking at $150 for 4 shocks. I wonder how the RC4WD King 150mm are?? They're fine in my twin hammers!?

Cant find any reviews.... Ok night for real

[Tzicul]

Originally Posted by daign

Should I have done 3 bearings in front diff too?

Yep!

[Tzicul]

Originally Posted by daign

RPM arms better?

The only A arm I ever broke was an RPM. It was kind of cold though

[Tzicul]

Originally Posted by daign

The Hot Racing steering ... binds agains the back of the dhawk front Diff. Damnit.

I think I'll have to take a dremel to it tomorrow and take a bit off the center. It only binds at 3/4 lock. Just need to get it to full lock... REALLY don't want to wait for the slowboat for a GPM or Dhawk steering setup. I'll make it work. Typical when you bolt aftermarket parts from different companies...


I wish some quality aftermarket shocks existed out there.

Don't worry, all my upgrades are from GPM and steering still binds with the diff case. Best tool ever - Dremel! Be careful, though, don't go too deep, you will reach one of the three little screws that keeps the pinion in place

As for the shocks: What bell crank should I choose?
Cheap and effective

[Spunkybob]

C'mon.. catch up old man

I'll have to tear mine half apart when I start to mod it though lol.

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[daign]

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

C'mon.. catch up old man

I'll have to tear mine half apart when I start to mod it though lol.

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Yeah I learned that lesson about 200 kits ago. Always by the must have hop UPS and install them during your build.

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by daign

Yeah I learned that lesson about 200 kits ago. Always by the must have hop UPS and install them during your build.

I hear you... Disposable income to do that is non existent haha.

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[daign]

OK. so the Savox 1230 is a bit tall. I lacked spacers, but had some ball joints. I used pan hex screws with washers on top, then washers underneath the servo ears on top of the ball joints, and longer screws.





The Ohio Machine linkage is beefy, it was just hitting the HR bulkhead, so I added a space on the underside of the aluminum servo horn. I think I'll use a longer screw and a nut just in case...



I wrapped the servo cable underneath it with slack on the front, and drilled a few drain holes in the servo hole just in case of water/debris..



I wont lie, I'm a bit concerned about the weight of this front End. so much aluminum. Luckily the back will be similar, but I may have to run a spare tire to balance it out, or sandbag a bit to get the front/back Center of gravity sorted...

More and more I'm leaning towards an aftermarket rear axle... The only stock things left will be shocks, tub, arms, hell even all the hardware, as I've used stainless throughout.

I wonder if I could build another (definitely partial) yeti XL roller out of the remaining parts with some parts ordered?)

Tub, bumper, rear shock tower, front arms and im sure some other items

[daign]

For those running the Dhawk front diff, and the hot racing front sway.

Bolts up just fin. As usual, stainless everywhere I can!




My chronic pain is acting up. Going to take a break. It sucks, I can only work for an hour at a time. I used to marathon build for 8 hours straight... f pancreatitis.

[daign]

I hit a snag. Was about to build the stock driveshaft and realized I have the GPM aluminum one. Was about to install it, but in order to install it, I need to seperate the "slider halves" of the shaft so I can screw in the ball joint and lock tite it.


EDIT: My driver was too thick to fit in the hole! (cough)

A hammer and a thinner driver, voila!



And of course, I forgot I needed to tilt the motor so i could fit a blower. DOH. Will see how temps do first. That yeah racing tornado is killer for 1515 motors.

I'll try and burn the midnight oil. Getting so close! Sadly I had a wrong bearing in the transmission, but caught the slop while putting the motor on. I had to rebuild the entire trans. Glad I caught it now I suppose!

[Spunkybob]

I don't know what batteries you are going to run but 5 3s batteries back to back and only slightly warm motor temps on stock gearing.

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[MaxxPain]

I run a lot of Aluminum up front and I am surprised I have not bent my DHawk Aluminum A-Arms yet. I bought mine before RPM came out with Arms.

[daign]

Things a MONSTER. weighs 14.3lbs without lipos. Going through and shimming any slop from different manufacturer's aluminum parts and whatnot.

I am so stoked how this thing came out and its not even done yet!















Body panels, front back LED bars, LED pods side/cage and need to figure out spare mount. I'm also trying to figure out how to do the LEDs this time, do each set on a JST or futaba connector?

[Spunkybob]

Those wheels make it a completely different beast then mine.
There is no way I could justify spending the $200odd on them... but its really tempting. I'd want them in black though.

[daign]

Sorry I've been busy... Some newer photos. I'll finish the livery today but lots of details still left.


Playing with some Traxxas UDR scale accessories. Radiator is on POINT. Cheap as heck too. Same with shock reservoirs/fins. I plan to detail them further and run rubber lines to my dhawk shock caps with a neat trick. I need to find 2-4mm KING style blue tubing..

[Spunkybob]

Looking tidey!

I am thinking about modding a real interior with figurines as the drivers but only time will tell if I bother.

That radiator is on point!!

From driving mine it's front heavy so I hope you can still fit a spare wheel to help balance it out.

Since only like 5 people seem to be active here you can always count on my reply

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