Motor wont spin

[Krawler23]

Well on my xr 10 i have had my top link bearing poop itself. I took it apart to find my bearing decided to leave some nice remains all over the place, including my motor. My front motor (where the bearing krapped) wont spin at all. I guess there is some stuff in there? Anybody have an idea what to do?

[SINister]

Open the motor up and clean it out.

[Krawler23]

Thanks for the response, i have never done that before but ill try it out. Any threads maybe on how to go about this?

[Cordwood]

what kind of motor is it? pic?

[SINister]

Originally Posted by Cordwood

what kind of motor is it? pic?

Your right some you can open up some you can't.

[Krawler23]

It's a tekin 35t https://store.rc4wd.com/mobile/product.asp?itemid=1264 here it is. Btw is this motor hand or machine wound. On the site I posted it says hand, but others say machine, just curious.

[SINister]

If it says PRO on the side it's a handwound.

[Krawler23]

So I can take it apart right?

[mahgninnuc1]

Yes you can take it apart. you've probably got a bit of metal stuck between the can and the armature. I'd pull the endbell off and check the armature and the can for metal shavings making sure to get all of them out. Then since you have it apart it is a good time to look at the Comm and brushes and bearings. Clean and re pack the bearings, touch up the comm buy wrapping some high grit sand paper around it and turning it a few times to clean it then check the brushes.

[Cordwood]

If you've never taken one apart before you need to take note of a few things. Here's a quick down and dirty on a couple key things to pay attention to.

First look at where the timing marks on the can and end bell are. The end bell should have little indents on the side, like this.



The can should have a tic on it as well, like this, maybe with a 0 under it.



Most likely the tic on the endbell that is in line with the phillips head screw holding the end bell on will line up with the tic on the can. That is zero degerees of timing. Make note of it.

Unclip the brush springs and remove the springs. Make note of which one is on the positive brush and on the negative brush.

Before pulling the brushes out of the hood, make note of their orientation so you can put them back in the same way. The shunt usually attaches to the back of the brush offset more towards one side of the brush.

Loosen the phillips head screws holding the endbell on 1-2 revolutions. You should be able to twist the endbell until you can pull it off. Pull it out slowly, as the shims on the armature often stick to the endbell and then fall out. Gather the shims from the end of the armature and whatever is stuck to the bearing in the endbell and set them aside.

Pull the armature out of the can and pay attention to the shims on that end of the armature. They often stick to the bearing down in the can. Set them aside.

Inspect the armature and blow it clean with compressed air. Hopefully a rock didnt cut into a wire and short the arm. If the comm and brushes arent hammered then I wouldnt touch them, unless you know someone with a comm lathe. Sand papering the comm will make it look nice but do more harm than good. Keep an eye out for a cheap comm lathe and you'll be able to service all your motors on your own.

Wash the can and endbell in soap and water. Run a Q-tip through the brush hoods, then blow it completely dry with compressed air. Check that a rock didnt break a magnet. It's good to rub each side of the brushes on a piece of paper board to clean them.

Reassemble, putting everything back how it came out and make sure to lube the bearings. I use this

[SINister]

Originally Posted by Cordwood

If you've never taken one apart before you need to take note of a few things. Here's a quick down and dirty on a couple key things to pay attention to.

First look at where the timing marks on the can and end bell are. The end bell should have little indents on the side, like this.



The can should have a tic on it as well, like this, maybe with a 0 under it.



Most likely the tic on the endbell that is in line with the phillips head screw holding the end bell on will line up with the tic on the can. That is zero degerees of timing. Make note of it.

Unclip the brush springs and remove the springs. Make note of which one is on the positive brush and on the negative brush.

Before pulling the brushes out of the hood, make note of their orientation so you can put them back in the same way. The shunt usually attaches to the back of the brush offset more towards one side of the brush.

Loosen the phillips head screws holding the endbell on 1-2 revolutions. You should be able to twist the endbell until you can pull it off. Pull it out slowly, as the shims on the armature often stick to the endbell and then fall out. Gather the shims from the end of the armature and whatever is stuck to the bearing in the endbell and set them aside.

Pull the armature out of the can and pay attention to the shims on that end of the armature. They often stick to the bearing down in the can. Set them aside.

Inspect the armature and blow it clean with compressed air. Hopefully a rock didnt cut into a wire and short the arm. If the comm and brushes arent hammered then I wouldnt touch them, unless you know someone with a comm lathe. Sand papering the comm will make it look nice but do more harm than good. Keep an eye out for a cheap comm lathe and you'll be able to service all your motors on your own.

Wash the can and endbell in soap and water. Run a Q-tip through the brush hoods, then blow it completely dry with compressed air. Check that a rock didnt break a magnet. It's good to rub each side of the brushes on a piece of paper board to clean them.

Reassemble, putting everything back how it came out and make sure to lube the bearings. I use this

x2 good explanation. Just to repeat do not use sand paper!!

[Archangel]

Also if you are using screws that are too long to mount your motor they will block the armature. Will it turn while not mounted?

[Krawler23]

Originally Posted by Archangel

Also if you are using screws that are too long to mount your motor they will block the armature. Will it turn while not mounted?

No it will not spin. Something must have got stuck in there. I guess i can try and give it a shot, but while the previous explanation of it was helpful, it sounded to be difficult and something that i could easily screw up.

[SINister]

True you could put it together wrong but if you take the time and pay attention while taking it apart it's really not that bad. I tried finding a step by step guide on here but couldn't find anything. If there's anything that you need explained in more detail just ask.

[Cordwood]

Don't be a *****...

Do what I said, mark stuff with a sharpie and we can help you put it back together.

[EddieO]

If you can put together a crawler, you can pull apart a motor....

For the record, I showed my blonde wife (yes she lives up to the stereotype a lot) to not only pull apart a motor, but to cut a comm and reassemble it....she did it all in about 15 minutes. I gave her a second motor, didn't say a word and she did it in the same amount of time......I then made her give me a footrub:P

It's not that hard....just keep track of how stuff went together. It's a good idea to mark the can and endbell with a sharpie or a exacto so you know how it went together.

Inspection here is key....you are looking for any signs of damage caused by what was in the motor.

Later EddieO

[SINister]

I'm thinking about doing a step by step guide for people that haven't done this before. Might be helpful to see it done with pics.

[zodiaci]

Originally Posted by SINister

I'm thinking about doing a step by step guide for people that haven't done this before. Might be helpful to see it done with pics.

Great idea. There are many that would find it useful!

[Cordwood]

Originally Posted by SINister

I'm thinking about doing a step by step guide for people that haven't done this before. Might be helpful to see it done with pics.

There is one in the works but the more the merrier.

[SINister]

If someone has one going already let me know. No reason to reinvent the wheel or motor in this case.