If I overvolt my servo could it hurt the esc?

[Mountainsofbeer]

I wanted to mess around with the rtr tactic servo and send it alittle more juice.

If don't care if the servo breaks or burns up, but I don't want to damage the esc or BEC of course or anything else really besides maybe the capacitors since they are easy to replace.

You think its ok to have alittle fun or don't risk it?

Also if you already know the result...

[WHITE-TRASH]

The esc and adjustable bec have nothing to do with each other in this instance. The only thing that may die is the servo.

[Jeepy84]

As long as you wire it up so the BEC feeds the servo, it should be your only sacrifice. I never wire the BEC to power the Rx and never understood why anyone would want to in a crawler.

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[Jeepy84]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

You push the truck around by hand or wut?

No, I use the ESC, you know, the part that's designed to receive battery power with big leads in and out to power the motor.

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[RCMFMaxxMan]

It is rated for 6v, which usually represents a nominal voltage, meaning it is rated for a 6v (nominal) battery pack like a typical 5s NiMh receiver pack. NiMh cells are 1.2v nominal, but 1.5v fully charged, so in theory, the servo should continue to function on up to 7.5v (5 x 1.5v = 7.5v). Keyword "should!"

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by Jeepy84

I never wire the BEC to power the Rx and never understood why anyone would want to in a crawler.

Cleaner wiring and no point otherwise if you're running a servo optimized for 6 volts. Seems easy.

[Jeepy84]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Cleaner wiring and no point otherwise if you're running a servo optimized for 6 volts. Seems easy.

I do run power hungry servos, so I suppose you're right

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[Teng]

Well, you would likely burn your servo

[Hydrocarbon92]

Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan

so in theory, the servo should continue to function on up to 7.5v (5 x 1.5v = 7.5v). Keyword "should!"

Realistically the only limitations inside servos is their capacitors, and some the transistors. All non-junk servos made in the last 10 years have chips that support 16-40v. The limitation is when they use very low ratings on capacitors (particularly tantalum, which explode) and mini transistors (which fry/smoke). I soldered an electrolytic in-place of a blown tantalum and resurrected a servo.

Beyond that you get excessive heat from the overvolted motor, which also causes arcing if it's brushed. Most people here will ruin gears way before wearing out the brushes, so it should survive if it doesn't pop in the first few seconds.


One more thing: servo boards are usually interchangeable (obviously not between brushed/brushless). I've taken the board from a servo with mangled gears and put it into a servo with a fried board. Works great, and now takes more voltage.

[Mountainsofbeer]

Just wanted to thank all of you for the responses very helpful and confidence inspiring! I love the freedom to experiment with RCs this hobby is great I love it.

I removed my servo saver and put all vanquish parts for the steering now, it works even with stock servo but I'm expecting it to break at any moment haha. I will probably buy a nice servo over the weekend and maybe next week I'll install it. Surprised that I have run at least three full battery packs through with the stock servo and its been OK. Its just TOO SLOW. Thanks again.

Also the reason I ugraded the steering is because the stock parts cracked I'm not just throwing parts on for no reason (normally this would be lies but actually true in this case haha)

[durok]

If you are truly ready for a new servo - you picked just the right time - we have finally been told the long-awaited prince of servos has arrived:

ProModeler - 470oz-in, Standard, Brushless #PDRS470

[robert@castle]

There are 2 ways that electronics can fail, open or short. Open is a much more common failure mode.
When it is open, no electrons are passing through the circuit and everything is safe.
If it fails short, a single component has failed in such a way that it has connected the power source to ground. A short is much more dangerous to a BEC because it will use 100% of the power of BEC.
Most all of Castle's switching BECs(Mamba X, Mamba Monster X, BEC 2.0)(maybe BEC and BEC pro, but I wasn't around when those were made so I can't say) have their hardware designed to be able to withstand a short, but you should still remove power a quickly as you can to prevent damage.
A linear BEC(Mamba Micro X, Sidewinder SV3, Axial AE-3, and Axial AE-2), should be able to survive it for a limited amount of time, but they will get very hot very quickly and should be unplugged immediately.