Cc bec 2.0...

[TK421]

Anyone using this? Ive searched on here and Google and I'm not finding anything.



I have a constant flashing red LED. I am having intermittent servo jitter and I am wondering if this is the cause. Servo is a JX CLS5830HV with Flysky FS-BS6 rx installed on an SCX10.3, BEC output set to 7.4v.


Lou

[Electroz]

How do you have it wired? Is it ran through your RX?

[TK421]

Power leads from the bec are soldered to the battery posts on the esc, then both leads are plugged into the RX.

Lou

[Greatscott]

Originally Posted by Electroz

How do you have it wired? Is it ran through your RX?

Yup... ?

What battery are you running?

If you are running a 2S pack, then you should not have the BEC set for any more than 7VDC, and even that will be pushing things when the pack gets below 3.5VDC/cell. If you are running NiMH, I would not recommend setting it for anything higher that 6VDC. The BEC cannot deliver more voltage than it is supplied.

[TK421]

Battery is a Gens Ace 3s 3600. I have the 3 wire output plugged into the bind port of the rx and the 2 wire lead plugged into ch5. Also, I do have the red wire pulled from the esc plug as well. I’ll have to verify later tonight but I’m 99% the bec is set to 7.4v...

Lou

[gottorque]

Unplug the 2 wire lead...you are probably over volting your RX. I have the 3 wire powering my RX and the two wire isn't needed but I have it directly powering lights.

[TK421]

The rx is rated for 8.5v. How you suggest is how I had it set up originally and I was thinking it’s was not enough juice. I am now leaning toward a bad servo :-/ Jitter is not the best word, it’s more like it “steps” as in the servo moves in increments not linear but it only does it about 30% of the time.

Lou

[gottorque]

I'm saying you don't need both plugged in especially if both the 3 wire and the 2 wire output the same voltage if I am not mistaken.

Try another servo.

[Voodoobrew]

You should not have the power from the esc and the bec both going tho yor rx.

The esc has an internal bec that sends power to the rx on the 3 wire connecter.

I have never connected a bec to the rx myself. I send it right to the servo.

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

[Voodoobrew]

Here is how I do it.

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Handy gearing spreadsheet

[TK421]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

You should not have the power from the esc and the bec both going tho yor rx.

The esc has an internal bec that sends power to the rx on the 3 wire connecter.

I have never connected a bec to the rx myself. I send it right to the servo.

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

I am aware, that’s why the red wire on the esc has been pulled and heat shrinked. The only load I want on the ESC is from the motor. To that end, I’m using the BEC as it was designed.

Lou

[Xx Losungen xX]

FS-BS6 per specs listed below show a max of 6.4 volts, that might be your issue.

https://usa-m.banggood.com/FlySky-FS...p-1661316.html

[TK421]

There is conflicting aboit about this rx. Lots of people are running it on 7.4v and higher. The case it’s self even says 8.4. I hooked up a different servo and it works as advertised. I have a Reefs 422 on that way and my 10.3 will be back up soon. Thank you everyone for your help.

I still would like to know what the flashing red LED means though...

Lou

[soze]

The BEC power should go directly to the servo. Use a RX bypass to take care of the signal wire from the RX to the servo.

Only the ESC power lead should be going to the RX

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by TK421

I still would like to know what the flashing red LED means though...

Lou

On the bec right? No idea. Test it with different input voltages and see what happens. Maybe it let's you know when the battery is below threshold. Maybe "blink blink" is binary for ack don't plug all 5 of my wires into the reciever!

There might be more info in the castle programming software. But I didn't see any troubleshooting led info for it either. Which makes me think it's probably not important.

On an esc it depends on the esc. For Castle I think it means it hasn't finished initialization.

On a Hw1080 it means your trims are probably off.



__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by soze

The BEC power should go directly to the servo. Use a RX bypass to take care of the signal wire from the RX to the servo.

Only the ESC power lead should be going to the RX

Nah, you can power the rx from a bec. Originally I think they were used to power recievers in planes who's esc's did not have built in becs.

Using the bec on the esc actually makes it run hotter, and there may be a motor performance hit, but I don't think it's very big.

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

[TK421]

Problem solved!!

Turns out it was a combination of things. First off, the JX servo wasn't bad but it DID NOT like something in my truck. What that is, I have no idea. That servo is installed in my TRX-4 now and has zero issues. I did install a Reef's 422HD and it works as it should.

The BEC... I reached out to Castle customer support and they got back to me yesterday. The three wire lead from the BEC was plugged into the bind/ VCC port of the RX. Some Rx's have an issue with this for whatever reason. Their recommendation was to move it to any other port on the RX. My solution was to pull the signal wire from that lead then plug it back in to the bind VCC port. After this, the LED stays on solid red and my system works like a champ now.

There are as many ways to wire your electronics as there are drivers. As I've been told in the Army for the last 22yrs, "This is not THE way, its just A way." All Rx's are effectively a power buss with individual signal leads.

End take away is this...

If you have a CC BEC 2.0 and the LED is blinking, something is wrong somewhere...


Lou
Lou

[robert@castle]

Originally Posted by TK421

Problem solved!!

Turns out it was a combination of things. First off, the JX servo wasn't bad but it DID NOT like something in my truck. What that is, I have no idea. That servo is installed in my TRX-4 now and has zero issues. I did install a Reef's 422HD and it works as it should.

The BEC... I reached out to Castle customer support and they got back to me yesterday. The three wire lead from the BEC was plugged into the bind/ VCC port of the RX. Some Rx's have an issue with this for whatever reason. Their recommendation was to move it to any other port on the RX. My solution was to pull the signal wire from that lead then plug it back in to the bind VCC port. After this, the LED stays on solid red and my system works like a champ now.

There are as many ways to wire your electronics as there are drivers. As I've been told in the Army for the last 22yrs, "This is not THE way, its just A way." All Rx's are effectively a power buss with individual signal leads.

End take away is this...

If you have a CC BEC 2.0 and the LED is blinking, something is wrong somewhere...


Lou
Lou

The signal wire on the Bind port is probably connected to ground. That is what our Castle Links do do initiate Castle Link communication. It's likely the BEC 2.0 wasn't getting out of boot-up mode because it thought it was linking to a computer and was delivering less voltage than you were expecting it to output.

[TK421]

Bob,

Thank you for that info! I doubt you remember, but we’ve actually met a few times at IRCHA. I still have my Castle Heli shirts from 2010 and 2011.

Lou