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06-26-2012, 02:32 PM | #1 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: In the Dark Edges of your Mind
Posts: 6,386
| Super 300 rebuild questions
I have had the Super 300s on my berg since they came out. They work so great with just a shot of WD40 now and then, that I have never given them any more thought. Last night during a teardown I noticed a fair amount of play in the CVD pin on one side. It looks like where the little pin goes through the big one. I have a rebuild kit from waaayy back so i looked up the original 300 thread. first... I know play is a bad thing... but how much is OK before breakage is a real concern? Second... How have you guys found to be the best way to get the pin retaining ring off the CVD when it's in fine shape. (not warped bent or boogered up) Thanks- |
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06-26-2012, 02:37 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Take a pair of wire strippers (with the pointy edges), grip it at the lip of the cup (between the lip and the ring) and tap the end of the stripper ()....should come right off.
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06-26-2012, 03:51 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions |
06-26-2012, 04:25 PM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 183
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
Interesting... Which end gets tapped, exactly? Photos are helpful. Last edited by CAIRN; 06-26-2012 at 06:25 PM. |
06-26-2012, 04:46 PM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions |
06-26-2012, 04:51 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Highlands Ranch, Co.
Posts: 852
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
Use a heat gun & heat the retainer ring & use a small bladed screwdriver & tap around the edge on the stub end & it should slide off. I have used a torch but it(the whole CVD assy gets really hot, really quick) & WD 40 for the stubborn rings. |
06-26-2012, 04:58 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Memphis
Posts: 4,786
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
Jeremy's method works great, in fact years ago I asked John (SDS) about it and he told me to use the same method.
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06-26-2012, 05:01 PM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy
Posts: 2,238
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
Most if the slop you see is the actual pin wearing and tapering on the ends and in the middle. I've broken a few of the SDS pins but I have gotten them from another source now and have yet to even start wearing them. Hell, I even broke a 300 short shaft at the Indiana state comp in 2010 with the other pins in running! Lol! One little pointer for ya. Take this for what you will but I've owned 4 sets of 300s now and not one single one would ever spin completely bind free. I have always mirror polished the ball and cup as well as ran a drill bit through the slot on the cup to clean out any burrs and make them equal on each side. After polishing and deburring the ball end and cup I would then break them in on my drill for about 10 mins each with fresh grease. I just mocked up a little jig with my drill and a bearing and cranked em to max angle and let the drill run full speed. Moving the stub end to a different position about every 5 minutes. I did this with new 300s and after a rebuild with new pins and barrels. Makes a huge difference IMO. |
06-26-2012, 05:06 PM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Highlands Ranch, Co.
Posts: 852
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
As slop goes, from what i've found is the pin wears the most(as posted above) & will give quite a bit of movement at the wheel. How much is up to you and we know you are a perfectionist Mine is about an 1/8 to a 1/4 & doesn't seem to have to much when the power is on. |
06-26-2012, 05:12 PM | #10 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Quote:
Yep, that's who told me. | |
06-26-2012, 06:01 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: In the Dark Edges of your Mind
Posts: 6,386
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
So I went to tap a stripper on the back end. It didn't help with the CVD but it was an interesting distraction. My wife was pretty mad at you guys for the advice Finally got it though. It was a stubborn booger. I had to use a really thin knife blade to get in the groove. You were correct. The pin was worn pretty good on each side where it passed into the barrel and the barrel was grooved pretty good too. Got it all buttoned back up now and the slop is gone. I only found the problem because I put in an RCBros locker last night and it wasn't as slop free as everyone said it should be... I found a gear pin that was broken and the sloppy CVD. Thanks guys. |
06-26-2012, 10:23 PM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sumter
Posts: 6,141
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions I was gonna say I typically use an xacto knife to get it started and then a flat blade screw driver and something to tap it with if necessary. Glad you got it fixed up!
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06-27-2012, 11:27 AM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: JERSEY BOONDOCKS
Posts: 3,360
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions
I just dremel disk the fkr's off and put new ones on LOLOL true story |
06-27-2012, 12:41 PM | #14 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Rochester Hills
Posts: 1,773
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions |
06-27-2012, 02:21 PM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: In the Dark Edges of your Mind
Posts: 6,386
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions |
06-27-2012, 03:07 PM | #16 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Token's life matters
Posts: 1,836
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Quote:
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06-27-2012, 03:28 PM | #17 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy
Posts: 2,238
| Re: Super 300 rebuild questions Quote:
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