Tommy's Big Willy

[sgtsteve]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Also, the RC4WD winch creeps AWFULLY bad. It has a potentiometer to adjust the trim, but as soon as you operate the winch at all, the creep is back and it needs adjusting again. This happens every time! It can't be operated like this so I'll have to look into a way to address it. I suspect I may need to pony up for a heyok winch controller. Kind of annoying, though.

I dealt with the same thing Tommy and tested it at different voltages (5, 6 and 7v via BEC) without change. The issue turned out to be the battery voltage, as I was using a 3s, which doesnt make alot of sense since the power to the winch was limited by the BEC. I dont know much about how electricity works, so maybe its amperage that was the issue, but on a 2s it should work fine. From what I read the heyok controller works fine with the bulldog winch, regardless of voltage used.

[Tommy R]

Well, now I have some good news and some good news.

I cleaned up the motor really well and it seems to be working nicely now. So maybe a new motor won't be required after all. And I looked through my electronics box and found a heyok winch controller. So I wired it up in place of the original RC4WD controller and the winch functions like a dream now! I'm running 3s, but it should only be 6v running through the rx. I would think that would be fine for it, but evidently not! I'm not running a BEC right now for the winch. I have one for the steering servo, but it's on 7.4v so that wouldn't work for the winch. Maybe I'll add another BEC, but I'm not sure it's really needed. We'll see how it does when it has a load on it.

Now I've got a choice to make. We have a scale comp on 1/21 and I have two options.

1. Get the Jeep running and start sorting things out and run it "in military trim" for the comp. Or...

2. Disassemble the Jeep entirely. Paint the parts that will get paint and start working on the cage. This will be a LOT of work/effort to put in before the event.

I'm leaning toward taking my time and going with Option 1.

[Tommy R]

All wired up and ready to run. The rx is in the top right of the pic oriented vertically. The heyok controller is also tucked up under there. I think the location of everything else is pretty self-explanatory.


And with the battery in place. I still don't have a battery tray, though. That'll be tomorrow...


Sounds so cool with the fan running!


I'd get some video, but it would be boring indoor stuff so I'll wait to get some outdoor footage soon. Suffice to say it's pretty dang loud, but it's a bit faster now that the motor is running better. And current weight is up to 9 lbs., not including Hammer.

[ColquittCustom405]

Originally Posted by justinart24

You could go the cheap route and put a ON/OFF switch on the red wire of the winch.

Cheap route?....if your wallet's dry, your wallet's dry.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by ColquittCustom405

Cheap route?....if your wallet's dry, your wallet's dry.

Fortunately, my wallet isn't completely dry, but it's getting there!

[Tommy R]

I hinged the hood this evening. It works pretty well, but I'll add some magnets to secure it better. I don't have any pics.....but I do have some video!!

Test Run: 1/6 Scale Willys Jeep - YouTube

[brokennib]

I'm digg'in that fan, is it setup as an exhaust or intake? I want to set one up in my jeep, but the engine bay is not really setup for great airflow. but it looks and sounds cool!

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by brokennib

I'm digg'in that fan, is it setup as an exhaust or intake? I want to set one up in my jeep, but the engine bay is not really setup for great airflow. but it looks and sounds cool!

Thanks! I credit RCP Crawlers with that. I've got it set up to force air into the engine bay. There isn't much room for the air to escape, but I think there's enough. I think I'll wire up an on/off switch for it 'cause I suspect on cooler days it won't be necessary and it'll be nice to be able to turn it off and save the battery. Though I suspect 5000 mah will last quite a while!

[Tommy R]

Driveshafts...

I don't believe I mentioned what I did for driveshafts. I'm using MIP shafts throughout. I used a stock SCX10 driveshaft for the rear. It fit perfectly. I used one for the front, too, but had to shorten the splined end a bit in order to get it to fit. To connect the transmission to the t-case, I used a shorter "dig" driveshaft for an AX10. Worked like a charm!!

[vipxj]

Nice video, Hammer seems to be able to handle your willy well.....

As in it crawls well,

[Big Mike]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Driveshafts...

I don't believe I mentioned what I did for driveshafts...

That confirms what I've been thinkin' - Thanks for the info Tommy.

The long Axial shaft I made is still intact, but I don't expect that to last forever.

Rushing a paintjob (or tubework either) has never worked out well for me. I'd go the slow route...

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by vipxj

Nice video, Hammer seems to be able to handle your willy well.....

As in it crawls well,

What can I say, he's pretty dang talented!!

Originally Posted by Big Mike

That confirms what I've been thinkin' - Thanks for the info Tommy.

The long Axial shaft I made is still intact, but I don't expect that to last forever.

Rushing a paintjob (or tubework either) has never worked out well for me. I'd go the slow route...

Yeah, I think so, Mike. Although, I am working on one more thing I hope to have done before the comp next week. We'll see how it works out before I post any pics.

[Tommy R]

Not much of an update, but I got some goodies today. My RC4WD hexes came in so I was finally able to install my C*H*U*D wheel wideners for the steelies. I also got some micro hardware delivered to help out with my next project: body armor!

[reddevildemo]

Nice, looks real good moving about. the armor is gonna take it to another level Tommy.

I agree with others too, I'd run it like it is and take your time on paint and other stuff.

[justinart24]

Looking good Tommy. I can't wait to see what you think about the new RC4WD scale bolts, I was wanting to pick some up too for a few projects.

[brokennib]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Not much of an update, but I got some goodies today. My RC4WD hexes came in so I was finally able to install my C*H*U*D wheel wideners for the steelies. I also got some micro hardware delivered to help out with my next project: body armor!

How are those Super Swampers fitting with the steelie wheels? Proline tires have had bead problems with RC4WD wheels in the past. They look great!

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by reddevildemo

Nice, looks real good moving about. the armor is gonna take it to another level Tommy.

I agree with others too, I'd run it like it is and take your time on paint and other stuff.

Thanks, man! Yeah, I'm pretty stoked about it.

Originally Posted by justinart24

Looking good Tommy. I can't wait to see what you think about the new RC4WD scale bolts, I was wanting to pick some up too for a few projects.

Oh, that's not the hardware I picked up. I got some 2-56 hardware to mount the body armor.

Originally Posted by brokennib

How are those Super Swampers fitting with the steelie wheels? Proline tires have had bead problems with RC4WD wheels in the past. They look great!

With the C*H*U*D wheel inserts, they mount great! It was basically a no brainer and well worth the price. I may still need a bit more offset to widen the track, though. The tires still get into the shock collars when turned/stuffed, but it's not too bad. We'll see how it does on the trail tomorrow.

[Jeepin-Paul]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks again for the helpful info, fellas! I'm not familiar with MEK. What is that? I assume it's pretty different from ProWeld, Bondene, Tenax, etc. that we often use for regular styrene work?

Since we'll be playing 100 degree heat, as well, I think it would be best to integrate at least a fan into the grill area. If it thermals I may add one directly to the ESC. Sound reasonable?

And looky what I found on teh intarwebs:
Fan*60x60mm*7.2v**::*GI*Joe...

I assume it'd be cool (ha!) to run this off the 6v coming through my receiver? Or should I plan on adding a dedicated BEC for it?

MEK = Methyl Ethyl Ketone which is also called 2-butanone. It is an industrial solvent.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by Jeepin-Paul

MEK = Methyl Ethyl Ketone which is also called 2-butanone. It is an industrial solvent.

Thanks! I picked some up earlier this week. Unfortunately, they only sell it in fairly large quantities, but I'll just transfer it into one of my emptyTenax or Bondene bottles to make it easier to work with. Should be starting on the body work in about a week or two...

[Tommy R]

Hammer finally got a chance to run his Willys in the daylight today. Here he is getting situated in the seat...


May need more air pressure, Hammer.


Had to pwn eric113's rig in honor of his b-day today.


Uh oh! Hammer rolled it into a small puddle!


Did he get wet? Yeah, I think so.


Overall, the Willys did really well and was more capable than I expected. It did take a quick roll into a small puddle, but I pulled it out quickly and everything continued to work fine. I proceeded to drive around for the next 10-15 minutes and decided to pop the hood to check the temps of the ESC and motor. They were both running VERY cool, so I closed the hood and kept driving.

Within 2 minutes, the Jeep started surging forward and stopped suddenly. It was then that smoke started pouring out from under the hood!! I popped the hood and disconnected the battery as flames shot out from the ESC! I blew out the flames and was engulfed with the glorious smell of burned electronics. The Axial Wraith AE-whatever ESC crapped out on me. I don't really know what happened, but something bad caused the ESC to fry. Guess it's time to get a real speed controller...